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Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all,

I have a 2005 base boxster, love the car but the top has been difficult.

I replaced three plastic push rods already. All seemed well until today.

It was raining, and I ran out to close the top. It got about half way and stopped, would not go any further. The motor was trying but it seemed stuck. I stopped trying to open it, and then disconnected the push rods so I could close the top.

The clam shell would not close, so I disconnected those rods too, and close it and drove it home and parked it.

The windows would not go all the way down though.

I turned the car on, and tried to see if the top motor was running at all with everything disconnected. It is not making any noises at all now.

I am not sure what to do, any ideas?

Thank you,

Jack

Posted

Jack:

Did enough water get in the car to get the immobilizer under the seat wet? If so, that could explain why your windows would not function.

As to why the top is not responding at all now, there could be a few different causes.

First, verify that the idiot light on the dashboard showing that emergency brake is engaged is lit when you pull up on the handbrake.

Then check fuses B6 (supplies power to the convertible top double relay) and D3 (supplies power to the electric motor). (Do a search here for photos if you are not sure where the fuse and relay trays are located).

If all of those are good, pull out the double relay and check the spades for corrosion. Clean the spades with some emery cloth and re-insert into the relay tray.

Once you have done that, move on to checking whether you are getting 12V to the electric motor when you depress the switch.

Let us know how if you get any results with the above.

Regards, Maurice.

Posted

Ok, good news. The motor runs when I unlatch the top.

Bad news, both push rods are getting bent. Does this mean they are too short and I need to screw out the plastic cap a little?

Thanks,

Jack

Hello all,

I have a 2005 base boxster, love the car but the top has been difficult.

I replaced three plastic push rods already. All seemed well until today.

It was raining, and I ran out to close the top. It got about half way and stopped, would not go any further. The motor was trying but it seemed stuck. I stopped trying to open it, and then disconnected the push rods so I could close the top.

The clam shell would not close, so I disconnected those rods too, and close it and drove it home and parked it.

The windows would not go all the way down though.

I turned the car on, and tried to see if the top motor was running at all with everything disconnected. It is not making any noises at all now.

I am not sure what to do, any ideas?

Thank you,

Jack

Posted

Maurice,

I did not get much water in at all, the windows go up and down, but not all the way up. It seems to be waiting for the top to be "fully closed." This might change once I connect all the rods (plastic ones and clam-shell rods)

the motor is now running, it would not run when I had the top closed (makes sense). So I am happy that the motor itself and switches are good.

I do remember hearing a little thud the last time the clam-shell opened. It is possible it is getting stuck and causing issues. I have all the push rods disconnected now, and will try to connect them again later.

I will have a friend operate the roof while I watch it.

I have replaced the plastic cups once, and noticed that the push rods were actually installed backwards. I put new rods on it, sadly I did not notice they were on backwards until I had installed them and tested the roof. Those rods were bent a little, I was able to bend them back into spec shape though.

Now I am wondering if I should not just buy a new set of perfect rods again. Would the top rods effect the clam-shell opening properly?

Thank you,

Jack

Jack:

Did enough water get in the car to get the immobilizer under the seat wet? If so, that could explain why your windows would not function.

As to why the top is not responding at all now, there could be a few different causes.

First, verify that the idiot light on the dashboard showing that emergency brake is engaged is lit when you pull up on the handbrake.

Then check fuses B6 (supplies power to the convertible top double relay) and D3 (supplies power to the electric motor). (Do a search here for photos if you are not sure where the fuse and relay trays are located).

If all of those are good, pull out the double relay and check the spades for corrosion. Clean the spades with some emery cloth and re-insert into the relay tray.

Once you have done that, move on to checking whether you are getting 12V to the electric motor when you depress the switch.

Let us know how if you get any results with the above.

Regards, Maurice.

Posted

One more thing, I just got everything shut, it seems the clam-shell is the issue.

When I connected it back up, and then tried to close it is making a bad noise. Not sure if it is the motor or rubbing, have nobody else with me right now so it is hard to see.

Jack

Posted

Last update, I did try the motor when the push rods were not connected to the clam shell. I assume I threw off the calibration of the motor and the clam shell. How can I sync this back up?

Thanks

One more thing, I just got everything shut, it seems the clam-shell is the issue.

When I connected it back up, and then tried to close it is making a bad noise. Not sure if it is the motor or rubbing, have nobody else with me right now so it is hard to see.

Jack

Posted (edited)

Last update, I did try the motor when the push rods were not connected to the clam shell. I assume I threw off the calibration of the motor and the clam shell. How can I sync this back up?

Thanks

Jack:

For instructions on how to sync the top, go to this link: https://sites.google...frameona'97

Specifically, select the Part III PDF and go to the text at paragraph 14 on page 38 and the photo at the top of page 39.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited by 1schoir
Posted

Thanks again,

I see no page 38, it ends at 31.

I am sure at this point that my issue is the plastic push rods, I need to get the length of these correct.

Was this document a how to on that?

Thank you so much for the help.

Posted

Thanks again,

I see no page 38, it ends at 31.

I am sure at this point that my issue is the plastic push rods, I need to get the length of these correct.

Was this document a how to on that?

Thank you so much for the help.

Jack:

Sorry about that... You have to go to the Part III PDF to find pages 38 and 39.

The document covers how to install an OEM replacement top from a 2003 or 2004 Boxster onto earlier Boxsters, but it has a section that shows you how to synch the top once you have installed the "new" one.

Regards, Maurice.

Posted

Thank you again, I started reading part 3 but thought it was just electric info, should have kept on going.

It means a lot to be able to come on here and get great advice from a very helpful person.

Really appreciate it!

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