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Recommended Posts

Posted

im two states away from home in california to pick up my car and we test drove the vehicle and checked it out and it was fine. Shortly after we bought it and started driving it the car just keeps dying. If we turn up the ac while driving the car jsut stalls, even when parked. when the ac is off about every time we use the brake, if you barely press on the pedal, the pedal shoots down and the car stalls half the time also. On an off note the power top was down when we first got it and it wouldnt go up for about an hour or two. finally after we found a hotel and brought the things in, i go back and try it and it goes up perfectly fine. ANy help on any or all of these problems would be of great help asap. Just spent a good chunk of money on this car and it seems so far like its a lemon. Going to take it to a mechanic in the morning, any thing in particular he should look at? One more thing when we take the key out, the lights on the dash stay on unless i lock the car. Thanks in advance for the help and please dont leave degrading comments on how i should have had it inspected better. I had been talkin to the guy constantly for a month and it had all seemed like a solid deal. and now i just feel like crap after seeing this is turning out.

Posted
... dont leave degrading comments on how i should have had it inspected better. I had been talkin to the guy constantly for a month and it had all seemed like a solid deal.

Not a degrading comment but, you could have been talking to the guy for 10 years, it wouldn't have mattered. Talking to someone that's trying to sell a car isn't worth having a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) done.

All your symptoms point to different problems. The problem with the top appears to be either a bad connection somewhere, or a bad switch. Just to be sure, when trying to put the top up, your parking brake was on? Was the brake light lit up on the dash board?

As far as the car stalling, could be a myriad of problems. We'll need more info. Could be vacuum related, especially since the you also report a brake problem, which could be a problem in itself, or a brake booster vacuum problem.

But first and foremost, did you scan the car for DTC codes? Take it to any autoparts store and they should be able to check it for free. When you turn the ignition on, does the check engine light (CEL) momentarily light up, then go out?

Since you're on a trip, you probably don't have the time to devote to troubleshooting your car. Your best course of action may be to take it to a reputable independent mechanic that specializes in Porsches. Not just any Joe Schmoe mechanic. Or, take it to the dealership. Otherwise, if you've got the time, post your questions here and we'll try to walk you through troubleshooting your issues.

If it's too hard to find a good mechanic, and you don't have the time to spare, I suggest renting a U-Haul/trailer and hauling 'er home. Once in your driveway, you'll have much more time to devote to troubleshooting your car. Sure beats the alternative: driving a car wiith an unreliable engine, no a/c, and possible brake problems, through the desert southwest, in August...

Posted

yah definately i know that would be a pain trying to drive it home with those problems . thanks for the reply. yah the light on the engine temperature is about 180 but the light right next to it keeps blinking. and as for the top we would be trying to put it up when driving and parked. when it finally went up was when it was parked though with the parking break. but we had tried it before that parked and parking break and everything, And no we havent taken it to a place yet to get the codes i will do that today and let you know.

Posted

the porsche mechanic we did take it to yesterday though, which we are going to take to right now, said it might just be the brake fluid needs to be changed because the car had been sitting for a long time, but if not its the brake cylinder. is that right?

Posted (edited)

heres an update

the mechanic replaced the master brake cylinder and the brake booster pump and now the braking problem is completely fixed and works like a charm, also got the wheels changed out and alligned.

now for the other problems. the side windows are still not working. the right one clicks when i press the button and it does not go down so yes its the regulator. but the drivers window when i press down theres no sound and when i press up the doesnt press down at all whereas the passengers does, plusthe drivers side i can pull up and down about half way with my hand, so what could that problem be.

Next is the top, yesterday it was having problems going back up after i finally got it down. but today i cannot get it down again. when i press the button for it to go down there's absolutely no response( same as yesterday when i tried putting it up) but when it actually went up yesterday it went up smoothly with no problems.

lastly and most importantly though, is the problem with it dying out when i come to a stop and am idling or sometimes even when switching gears , what happens is when i am at a light is flucuates between 500 rpm and 750 or(.5 mark and .75mark before the 1 mark) especially when the air conditioner is on it flucuates lower that the 500 rpm at times, but regardless,it still keeps stalling out when it hits below the .5 mark. but at other times it will be idling and the rpm will stay fine without dying out. so any suggestions? is it the timing belt or the spacing between the spark plugs or even the spark plugs going bad or what.

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Edited by Aceler8
Posted

Mine is a 2001 and it had problems last year of stalling when it came to a stop or idling. The problem was the fuel line. The problem stopped then one day it wouldnt turn over at all then the fuel pump had to be replaced. No other problems with it starting or stalling have happened since.

Posted

What's the age of the car's battery? Perhaps, it is time to replace if it is old and has been sitting for too long.

Posted

Temporary fix for the top, probably too late for your trip. Disconnect the motor from the top and move it manually. There are instructions somewhere in the forum to pop out the actuator bars.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

battery is a year old it was tested and they said it was still good. some suggestions that a few friends said was that it might just be the spacing of the spark plugs. is that possible its causing the low idling. and yah for the top for some reason it goes up and down fine sometimes and other times it just completely refuses to respond so idk whats going on about that. but the main focus right now is the low idling causing it to stall. if its the vacuum leak or fuel pump how much do those usually run and how much for labor usually or can it it be a DIY project. thanks guys

Posted

Where is Texas are you?

If you are near Austin, might be cheaper to just have it hauled to Silent Automotive.

He's relatively cheap and very knowledgeable about Boxsters.

Car haul is probably $750-1000.

M

Posted

About the top problem - Maybe you're already doing this, but form your notes and the responses, maybe not. From the factory, the top does not operate unless the parking brake lever is pulled sufficiently to light the indicator on the dash. There is an afermarket product available to make the top operable at speeds up to 25 MPH if you want.

Posted

@txhokie cars in el paso but im in lubbock right now but ill look into it thanks. yah for the most part after already putting several grand in just for the tires, mastercylinder and the other part im trying to find the best way without parts for labor killing me again

@4agdtym oh yah i already knew that about the lever having to be up and the light indiciator. it only works about half the time but at least its coming up now thanks.

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