No windows, sunroof, interior lights, central locking, etc

[jpflip]

Do not replace the complete alternator just do the voltage regulator. I replace mine last month. It was a 2 hours job and only $39.00 for a Bosch regulator...Now everything is perfect....You will found all the info you need here: http://forums.rennli...ad-alt-reg.htmlhttp://forums.rennli...ad-alt-reg.html

And also here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-996-997-forum/408495-alternator-repair-regulator-replacement.html

Edited August 18, 2012 by jpflip

[mhall1019]

Do not replace the complete alternator just do the voltage regulator. I replace mine last month. It was a 2 hours job and only $39.00 for a Bosch regulator...Now everything is perfect....You will found all the info you need here: http://forums.rennli...ad-alt-reg.htmlhttp://forums.rennli...ad-alt-reg.html

And also here: http://forums.pelica...eplacement.html

Good to hear from you again and thanks for that huge money-saving tip.

If you read my list of 3 items above, I'm still stuck on #2, because I don't know for sure what the specs are for the charging system. If I am able to find a PST2 system, it may provide diagnostics for the charging system. Or, if I could get my Durametric to communicate regularly, I could monitor the voltage on a short road trip from starting the car to shutting it off. If the alternator is outputting 12+ volts under load and maintaining the battery at 12+ volts is this satisfactory? I'll spend some time today in the workshop manual to see if the testing of the system is shown as voltage and hydrometer readings, or from a PIWIS or PST2 diagnostic.

A more basic question now is, am I barking up the wrong tree - I'm trying to fix a fault in the alarm system and after charging the battery fully, I cleared the alarm system codes and the code that mentioned low voltage didn't come back, but the others did. Is the battery/charging system, even though its not 100%, good enough to not likely be the source of the alarm system codes? In which case, I need to move to the next step which is not obvious to me. It could be that, without a factory tester, I won't be able to troubleshoot it.

Thanks again,

Mike

[mhall1019]

battery

If you've been reading along, from the tests I've run on the battery and charging system, is it still likely to be the battery? Do you know if low 12s voltage is sufficient, or should I throw a new voltage regulator at it? If that raises the supply voltage to the car, I may still need to replace the battery because its been running on the low side for so long and does not a full charge from the alternator. Any ideas on that?

Thanks,

Mike

[jpflip]

12 volts indicated, while the engine is running is not sufficient. I you switch "on" the headlights + a/c you will probably drop below12 volts meaning battery power needed to provide electricity. You have to get at least 13 volts. You seems to have the exact problem I was having before regulator replacement. I went out, one day, and realized the voltage indication was exactly on the 12 volt. I've decided to select headlights on and the a/c ON and suddenly the voltage was 1/16" below 12 volts....Came back home to put a multimeter on the battery pole while the car was running to look at the precision on the car voltmeter and it was dead on...No other choice to replace the regulator and now I got a steady 14 volts on start and 13 to 13.5 with load.....

About your oil temperature sensor if the wires are correctly connected just replace the sensor as per repair manual page 502. Easy step to follow and not expensive unit...

Edited August 19, 2012 by jpflip

[wross996TT]

Mike...agree completely with jp. Porsche are very sensitive to battery. I have had strange electrical faults before. Replacing the battery fixes them. I just replaced my 5 year old battery last week. It appears the battery is OK , but it didn't work FWIW.

[mhall1019]

Mike...agree completely with jp. Porsche are very sensitive to battery. I have had strange electrical faults before. Replacing the battery fixes them. I just replaced my 5 year old battery last week. It appears the battery is OK , but it didn't work FWIW.

Mike...agree completely with jp. Porsche are very sensitive to battery. I have had strange electrical faults before. Replacing the battery fixes them. I just replaced my 5 year old battery last week. It appears the battery is OK , but it didn't work FWIW.

Since the battery tested good and the alternator tested bad, I'll be replacing the voltage regulator tomorrow. I won't hesitate to replace the battery if the new voltage regulator won't hold the battery up over 14V with no load.

A new problem that arose this week is that I get a dash alarm after I take the ign key out saying that the ign key has not been removed. If I run the key in and out a few times I hear the click of the tumblers (?) and the alarm goes away. So, after I finish the alternator and test it, I'll move on to replacing the entire ignition lock assembly.

[mhall1019]

12 volts indicated, while the engine is running is not sufficient. I you switch "on" the headlights + a/c you will probably drop below12 volts meaning battery power needed to provide electricity. You have to get at least 13 volts. You seems to have the exact problem I was having before regulator replacement. I went out, one day, and realized the voltage indication was exactly on the 12 volt. I've decided to select headlights on and the a/c ON and suddenly the voltage was 1/16" below 12 volts....Came back home to put a multimeter on the battery pole while the car was running to look at the precision on the car voltmeter and it was dead on...No other choice to replace the regulator and now I got a steady 14 volts on start and 13 to 13.5 with load.....

About your oil temperature sensor if the wires are correctly connected just replace the sensor as per repair manual page 502. Easy step to follow and not expensive unit...

12 volts indicated, while the engine is running is not sufficient. I you switch "on" the headlights + a/c you will probably drop below12 volts meaning battery power needed to provide electricity. You have to get at least 13 volts. You seems to have the exact problem I was having before regulator replacement. I went out, one day, and realized the voltage indication was exactly on the 12 volt. I've decided to select headlights on and the a/c ON and suddenly the voltage was 1/16" below 12 volts....Came back home to put a multimeter on the battery pole while the car was running to look at the precision on the car voltmeter and it was dead on...No other choice to replace the regulator and now I got a steady 14 volts on start and 13 to 13.5 with load.....

About your oil temperature sensor if the wires are correctly connected just replace the sensor as per repair manual page 502. Easy step to follow and not expensive unit...

jp - Is there any chance that once I get the alternator out I'll have access to the sensor without removing the throttle body? Also, the reason I asked "which one?", is that the same part is used in section 101-15 #24.

[jpflip]

Sorry Mike, the alternator is behind the engine and the oil temperature sensor is bottom forward of the oil filter housing..... Removing the oil filter housing is not difficult but there is a seal under and it can be damage. If you can do it without removing too many things it is better....I know the repair manual did not use that route.....

Edited August 25, 2012 by jpflip

[mhall1019]

Sorry Mike, the alternator is behind the engine and the oil temperature sensor is bottom forward of the oil filter housing..... Removing the oil filter housing is not difficult but there is a seal under and it can be damage. If you can do it without removing too many things it is better....I know the repair manual did not use that route.....

I've been in there before, but I pictured the temperature sender being at the base of the oil/water exchanger. I had to change the oil pressure line because it was crimped - almost closed off. Came from the factory that way, I guess. Luckily, pressure senders don't need flow to them or there may have been a pressure drop across the restriction.

For a minute there, I thought you were going to tell me I needed to take the engine out...

[jpflip]

LOL!!! I took the pictures of my engine when it was out for coolant pipes welding this spring. You don't need the engine out but you need to be patient :thumbup:

Edited August 25, 2012 by jpflip

[mhall1019]

LOL!!! I took the pictures of my engine when it was out for coolant pipes welding this spring. You don't need the engine out but you need to be patient :thumbup:

Wanna hear something even funnier. I mentioned that there were two of those temperature senders on the engine. I changed the wrong one! It took more than an hour to get to it - I had to take a water hose loose. Then, as I was getting ready to put the oil filter housing back on, I saw the one I needed to to change. Luckily I had two new ones. I guess you would understand why it took me 6 months to change my clutch! My fingers are getting feeble along with my brain! I had to quit last night before I finished putting the recirc valves and intake pipe back on. Assuming the engine runs after I finish this, I still need to change the ignition switch with the upgraded one.

Can you believe I used to be able to pull a 911 engine in two hours (pre-CIS).

I'll be able to check out my OBDII wiring when I'm working on the ign. switch and maybe I'll find out why my Durametric doesn't work most of the time. My used PST2 should arrive today and maybe I'll be able to read codes with it to narrow down the problems with the alarms system. Might even be able to program my new key that's been cut for my car. Hope I don't end up "bricking" my car.

Thanks,

Mike

[jpflip]

The good thing is the coolant temperature sensor is not too far!!!LOL!!! You are going to be able to work on TT's with your eyes closed, at least one. :cheers: + rep for your fighting spirit (I got this french word "combativité" translated, hope it work!). You are going to have a PST2!!!! A real one or a clone like mine? It is a fantastic tool. It took me a while to get use to it because of the multiple functions but even today I still discover some new applications.... Good job Mike!

I did some key programming and let me tell you, follow every single step of the repair manual page 1155. It is really important to go step by step. Of course you will be able to do that only after you get, from your dealer, the IPAS code for your car. A series of code for programming different functions.....

Edited August 27, 2012 by jpflip

[mhall1019]

jp:

Yes, that coolant temperature sender was only about 2 hours away!

I have finally come to a roadblock - I can't find where the end of the hose goes in the pictures. One end attaches to the valve, and the other end sucks air at the present time. It probably goes behind the whole mess there, but before I try to find a home for it back there I thought I'd check with someone like you that has a memory span more than 10 minutes.

Thanks,

Mike

Lost internet connection for a while - no pics uploaded

Edited August 27, 2012 by mhall1019

[jpflip]

Can you be more specific about the hose. Are you talking about a sense line on the diverter valves? If it is a sense line, page 611 of the repair manual got a good routing of those lines....There is also a routing of the sense line on a sticker under the engine compartment cover.

Edited August 27, 2012 by jpflip

[mhall1019]

That's what the PST2 I got looks like. Won't get to play with it until the car is running.

Found vacuum line connection - moved 40 wires and hoses and voila! Then it was a whole nother job putting the hose on it.

[jpflip]

Your PST2 is exactly like mine, same interface card but I'm on a Dell computer. Have fun with it!!!! Good to know that you've found the sense line connection!

[mhall1019]

Your PST2 is exactly like mine, same interface card but I'm on a Dell computer. Have fun with it!!!! Good to know that you've found the sense line connection!

The car started and the battery was being charged at 13.3 volts. I cleared the 3 alarm codes I had last time. And, I still have the 2 beeps when I click the transponder.

So, I moved on to the ignition switch. It was relatively easy other than trying to get the switch surround, key and paper clip all lined up. After I hooked everything back up, I got one turn of the engine and then nothing. I thought the steering lock might have been loose and it was, so I pulled it, lubed it a little and it seated properly. Then I called this young skinny guy to come over and finish putting it back together. He's been under the dash before and I expect that it will all be put together properly. Whether it cranks and starts is another matter.

I haven't connected the PST2 to the car yet. I can't find the [<<] or maybe its the [>>] key. The menus look a lot like Durametric's. It says you can log up to 8 variables at a time - how long can you log for? I saw a download on this site for the instruction manual but all I found was 10 pages of warnings about electrical hazards. Have you seen a complete manual or just used the one in the program.

Mike

[Loren]

On a PC keyboard the following are equivilents:

[#] is F9

[arrow with dots] is F10

[<<] is F11

[>>] is F12

There is nothining in the PST2 manual that is vehicle specific. Each section of the corresonding service manual has some explaination to use for that specific task (i.e. alarm)

[jpflip]

Loren's got it. The only key you have to use on your laptop are mostly F12 to accept or carry on, to return F11 and sometimes the bottom screen will show you f4 or...I can't remember the other's but some at the bottom like diode test etc. are useless

[jpflip]

Mike, I got a question about the ignition switch. I think your car is a 2002. Did you used the switch part# 4A0 905 849 B? Thanks!

[mhall1019]

Loren's got it. The only key you have to use on your laptop are mostly F12 to accept or carry on, to return F11 and sometimes the bottom screen will show you f4 or...I can't remember the other's but some at the bottom like diode test etc. are useless.

Loren's always got it!

Mike, I got a question about the ignition switch. I think your car is a 2002. Did you used the switch part# 4A0 905 849 B? Thanks!

JP: I replaced the entire assembly. I'm not sure what, besides the switch at the front end of the assembly, was updated in this version that came out in 2004(?). I can find the box tomorrow if you want the teile no. The new ignition assembly has corrected the mushiness in the lock and eliminated the key not removed dash alarm. The steering lock is extremely tight/stiff.

The PST2 was very easy to use. I'm surprised it doesn't know what vehicle its connected to, but it sure goes at least one step beyond Durametric's

analysis.

I now have codes 34 and 60. Each has a count of 1 because they must be continuous faults that come back and stay on after resetting them.

The 34 was signal short (+) and the other was passenger compartment position implausible. Neither one told me what color wire to check. The passenger compartment seemed to be in its normal position.

In any case, I still get two beeps when I press the transponder.

Mike

[jpflip]

34 is air conditioning can fault and 60 is central locking limit position lock not reached.....I guess you got the diagnostic manual Mike?

[mhall1019]

Yes, but, the workshop manual doesn't call parts by tbe same name as parts katalog. So, if I'm going to shotgun these codes, I need to find the passenger compartment location sensor.

I also want to pull out my Pioneer deck with custom enclosure. It needs repair anyway, so I thought I'd look to see if there's any wires shorted together in there. ...Unless there is a more logical place to look for a short. So, is the right plan to change the passenger sensor, and look for a short in the center of the of the console?

[mhall1019]

On a PC keyboard the following are equivilents:

[#] is F9

[arrow with dots] is F10

[<<] is F11

[>>] is F12

There is nothining in the PST2 manual that is vehicle specific. Each section of the corresonding service manual has some explaination to use for that specific task (i.e. alarm)

Voltage regulator was replaced - keeps battery at 13.5V. Cleared codes with PST2 and still have codes 34 and 60. Replace passenger location sensor? Look for short? In center of dash in the area of the central locking button and follow wires to nearest connector?

Thanks,

Mike

[jpflip]

May be it is not related but I remember reading somewhere, and I hope Loren will give us his opinion, an aftermarket radio need a kind of hack to eliminate an alarm function...But I am not sure....