MOST Bose Audio Replacement

[nota911]

I know this subject has been covered extensively but I have not found answers to these specific questions.

I have a 2003 S with the Bose system, CDR-23 and MOST connected CD changer and amp:

I want to install a 2-DIN head unit, use its built in amplification for the dash and door speakers (initially retaining the Bose speakers), remove the CD changer and Bose amp and add a separate amp to drive the Bose sub/rear drivers.

Alternatively, a 5 channel amp and not use the HU power at all.

1) What do I need to move the AC controls to where the CD storage is located?

2) Is there a 2-DIN fascia kit that allows me to retain the cupholder above the HU?

3) Is there a harness adapter available that connects to the speaker wire plug that currently plugs into the Bose amp, so I can connect the existing speakers to the new amp without having to cut factory wiring?

4) Any issues to expect when driving the Bose speakers with a new amp (Bose speakers are 6 ohms I believe)?

5) Is there a remote turn on lead in the factory harness that connects to the Bose amp?

Many thanks in advance

[nota911]

Maybe this can be of help to someone. In the absence of replies I went ahead and uninstalled the CD changer and amp and plugged in the Autoleads adapter harness I had purchased. I also tested each individual speaker connection both at the ISO plug (headunit) end and at the other end where the harness connects to the large factory amp connector (image below)

So on my 2003 Boxster S with the CDR23 head unit, optically connected amp and CD changer in the frunk, and Bose speaker enclosure behind the seats, the pinouts are as follows.

Autoleads harness end/factory harness end (from factory amp to speakers):

• White Pair: left dash speaker -> Yellow Pair
  
• Violet Pair: right door speaker -> Violet Pair
  
• Green Pair: left door speaker -> Green Pair
  
• Gray Pair: right dash speaker -> Red Pair
  
• Yellow/black Pair -> brown/red-blue Pair to Battery +/-
  

So the first 4 pairs allow a new head unit to power the dash and door speakers just by plugging in the ISO connector. The Autoleads harness has bullet connectors so the four channels can be reassigned to different pins in the ISO connector if necessary, or re routed to an amp.

Then there are some open ended, 10" long wires at the amp location connector on the Autoleads harness. Here's their counterparts at the factory harness end:

• Red Pair -> Blue Pair (not connected to any speaker in my car)
  
• yellow-green/brown Pair -> none
  
• yellow-gray/brown Pair -> none
  
• Blue Pair -> none
  
• Orange Pair -> white/white-brown Pair to Rear Enclosure
  

Which provides the following useful information:

1. Very easy to just plug in a new head unit using built in amplification to dash and door speakers, using the Autoleads harness. No new amp necessary.
   
2. Because the Autoleads harness has bullet connectors on the speaker leads, it is simple to select wich speakers get connected to the head unit or to an amp in the frunk.
   
3. The rear Bose speaker enclosure is wired as a SINGLE channel. So if the mid/tweeters in the enclosure are to be powered separately from the "woofers", an additional 2 channels of speaker wiring needs to be routed from the frunk to behind the seats. This is in contrary to the amp pinout posted here which suggests three channels to the rear.
   
4. Without a diagram of the internals of the factory Bose amp, I cannot determine if it powers the dash or door speakers, or both, as they are all wired to the amp connector.
   

Edited August 19, 2012 by nota911