2001 cab convertible top issue

[Murph44]

My top quit on me so I got a whole lot of info from you guys and found my hydraulic tank was below MIN

I followed the advice of this forum and added fluid to my top (it was below MIN). The cylinders now work well, but I think either the sync is off or I screwed something up messing with it before I finally checked the fluid. So here's what going on:

1) I start by mechanically opening up the 'hook latch' on the front of the top (top is in the half way closed position).

2) I continue to close it....it closes and latches. And then there is the back lid motor running but does NOT close the back lid...it times out

3) I push the open switch, it unlatches, top goes all the way down, side flaps fold up......motor starts for lid closure, but doesn't move....times out

4) I open top, side flaps open, top starts closing.....goes a foot from the windshield and stops (as does the hydraulic motor).

5) I notice that the 'hook' has not opened to receive the slot.

6) I manually open the 'hook', hit the switch and it closes and latches......but again, there is no closure of the rear cover. I do notice that the lever for the back cover (connected by the flexible shaft to the rear hook that draws the cover down) is not moving.....and therefore not hitting the microswitch).

Is this a timing issue? Can the PST2 unit fix this.....or are there many more variables? Thing is, it was working fine and then one day it just 'stopped'....only 2 clicks...no motors

Thanks guys

[frisbee91]

I'm in the middle of dealing with an issue like this right now. For me, the reason the microswitch for the rear "hook" cable was not engaging was because the gear that drives it is shared with the left side clamshell cover hinge drive cable. The cable was binding, along with the drive mechanism slider for the left side hinge. I'm still not sure of the root cause, but ultimately, the left side cable is damaged internally, and the slider is out of alignment.

Haven't fixed it yet, but I'm working on it. PM me if you want some more ideas to check. I have some pictures to share and write up once I finally fix it. Warning: the parts aren't cheap.

[Herringlj]

Hello, first time to post here.

Just had the same issue on a 99 C2. The rear top lid would not operate, up or down, but the actual top works fine. I could operate the lid manually, but that was it. The cable for the rear hook was also not moving under manual operation or under power, but I could hear the motor running. Same sort of thing, timing out.

So I removed the motor and took it apart, the gears are not binding and are rotating under power, but the square driver is not turning or engaging. My first thought was that the top control module may by not be working properly, engaging the driver. I acquired another module, still no engagement or lid movement. I did get the module from ebay, so it could also be bad. I'll have to test it to be sure.

During manual operation, the rear cable/hook doesn't move, to engage the microswitch. So I took that apart and found the bottom ear on the slide that connects to the rear cable was broken off. This slide rides on the gear that operates the left side cable, with the ear fitting into the slot on the gear. I will try to weld this ear back on to make that repair, but the issue is still the motor not engaging to move the top, and that the rear cable doesn't move under manual operation.

Still trouble shooting, I'm sure it's something pretty basic, just need to eliminate a few things first. I'll locate another control module and see if that works. I think the control module is not talking to the motor, telling it to engage, or that part of the motor is not operating properly.

More to follow.

[frisbee91]

I wouldn't weld that piece on. I believe it is meant to be a separate piece. It slides up and down while the rack and pinion system moves.

Post some pictures, so I can be sure we are talking about the same thing.

Here's some troubleshooting advice:

Remove the rear lid by removing 4 bolts on the underside of the lid (using a 10mm socket) and unclipping the rear brakelight wire. Set the lid aside. Then, with the gearbox motor apart, you can actuate the hinge and hook on each side by pushing/pulling the cable that attaches to the rack gear. By doing this, you can check for binding in the right and left side cable and hinge mechanism.

For me, the left side was binding, causing damage to the cable and hinge. I ended up buying a whole new assembly. Depending on what's wrong with yours, I might have parts you can use.

Edited May 23, 2012 by frisbee91

[jrod5150]

I've been dealing with multiple top issues after I took it in to have the material replaced and converted to a glass window. The shop that did the work broke the left arm bracket behind the quarter panel. After I replaced it, I was having a problem with the clamshell going down all the way and noticed the hinge arms were broken so i replaced both. Now I've found that the latch lock is not engaging. After taking apart the gear assembly, the ear that slides into the left cable to open the latch is broken off probably the same as yours. Mine will open if I manually lock the latch but will not close and lock so it doesnt hit micro switch and it keeps the light on.

Frisbee, do you have the lock cable slider piece? My right cable has also been previously repair by someone with 10 zip ties. I wouldn't mind changing that as well

[987_RDC]

Don't weld it with MIG, it will disintegrate. Ask me how I know.

I solved same problem and documented here: (oh btw I did use frisbee's help)

http://www.renntech....op-calibration/

Maybe you can TIG the "foot" back on.

Edited July 23, 2012 by 987_RDC