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Recommended Posts

Posted

I am going to change my oil ( to Joe Gibbs DT-40) and and upgrade the oil filter to the LN Spin-On oil filter adapter & filter. On the install instructions it says to lubricate both o-rings in the adaptor with an appropriate o-ring lubricant.

Now I know it might be a simple question but should I just use some of the new motor oil on these o-rings and then screw in the adapter and torque it down or another type of lubricant?

Thanks

  • Moderators
Posted (edited)

Use clean motor oil; we do it on all these we install. Also be sure that after you torque the adaptor in, you also lube the gasket on the new spin on filter with oil, and then only tighten the spin on filter 1/2 turn past hand tight. You cannot imagine how many people try to torque the filter on to the OEM specs, and then wonder why the adaptor comes off with the filter. Put the lubed filter on as described and you will not have that problem..............

Edited by JFP in PA
Posted

Hi all. While we are on the topic I am planning on doing my first oil change in my recently purchased C4S. I know I need a special bit to get the sump plug out, but I dont know what to expect with the OEM oil filter/housing. Do I require any special tools to remove and refit the oem oil filter? Thx

  • Moderators
Posted

Hi all. While we are on the topic I am planning on doing my first oil change in my recently purchased C4S. I know I need a special bit to get the sump plug out, but I dont know what to expect with the OEM oil filter/housing. Do I require any special tools to remove and refit the oem oil filter? Thx

Yes, two: A torque wrench (which you also need for the oil plug) and a cup style filter housing wrench (many sources).

  • Admin
Posted

Hi all. While we are on the topic I am planning on doing my first oil change in my recently purchased C4S. I know I need a special bit to get the sump plug out, but I dont know what to expect with the OEM oil filter/housing. Do I require any special tools to remove and refit the oem oil filter? Thx

Oil Change Instructions

Posted

After changing the oil and filter with adapter - a very easy job - used initially 8.5 quarts - ran it for a while and checked the dipstick. It read low so I filled with the remaining .5 quarts and ran and then let sit again for 30 minutes. Now on startup the oil level readout in the dash read 2 bars low, but the dipstick reads full. Prior to oil change it read full and the oil level read all bars - have I missed something? It is a 2001 3.4 and it did not use any oil in the @ 5k since last oil change.

Do I add some additional oil so the oil guage on startup reads full or leave it as it is according to the dipstick? It now has 9 full quarts added since a full drain and new filter w/LN adapter.

Posted

Don't add more oil! Dip stick is final word. Gauge is very close approximate. Let it sit overnight, on a level surface. Then check first thing in AM before you start it.

It is better to run 1/2 quart low then full to the top or overfilled. Your AOS will thank you. Maybe Joe Gibbs oil sticks to internals longer?

Posted

I believe that the electronic oil level indicator has a very narrow range, so being down two bars from the top translates to a small difference in the amount of oil present.

Posted

I think in cars that have a dipstick it is more reliable/accurate than the electronic sensor. With both you have to give it sometime to let the oil return to the pan for an accurate reading. And of course i believe the electronic sensor uses the temp of the oil so the oil has to be warm.

I have never really liked the fact that the dipstick has been removed from the newer cars.

Posted

One thing I discovered is the electronic sensor seems to be more punctual after I replaced it. Now it seems to match the dipstick much more closley and is also more "on time". I still always use the dipstick for the most accurate measurement.

Yes definately wait minimum 30 minutes before checking oil level. I like to check it when the engine is hot, then let it sit for 30 minutes. I think the owners manual says 20 minutes. This takes into account oil expansion due to heat, and also figures in ample drain time back into the sump.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I think in cars that have a dipstick it is more reliable/accurate than the electronic sensor. With both you have to give it sometime to let the oil return to the pan for an accurate reading. And of course i believe the electronic sensor uses the temp of the oil so the oil has to be warm.

I have never really liked the fact that the dipstick has been removed from the newer cars.

Totally agree, there's alot that be said about looking and feeling not to mention that "ut-ohh" diagnostic. I am a Smgr. at a Land Rover dealership and from the technical side of things, I'd like to have a heart to heart with the engineer who decided to de-content the engines (and charge the customers more for the vehicle) by eliminating the dipstick. From the tampering side of the table, I do understand why.
  • 1 year later...
  • Moderators
Posted

I just purchased the spin on adaptor, what are you using for a filter?

We prefer the Wix/NAPA Gold 51042 or 51042XP. Both are excellent filters at reasonable prices. The 51042 had a specialty paper filter media, the XP adds a synthetic media for even better filtration.

Posted

I ordered the adapter from LN and the Filters (XP) from Amazon; I'll update the string once installed ... planning to do the work in a couple of weeks.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I just finished my first oil service and had the LN Spin-on Oil Filter Adapter and Win/NAPA Gold synthetic filter installed. I stayed with OEM oil (MobilOne 0-40).

I was delighted to hear there weren't and "nasties" in my old filter.

I had the work done at Chris's German Auto in Bellevue. They seemed great to work with; so willing to answer questions and just spend time discussing points of interest on performance improvements and alike.

Posted (edited)

I spoke too soon.

I bought a 26 mm deep socket from eBay as nobody has them locally. It's a Blackhawk UW-526M, where Blackhawk is Proto's budget line. Today the LN filter adaptor arrived, and I tried a fit-check of the socket onto the adaptor. No go.

My analog caliper says the LN adaptor's nut size is bigger than 26 mm. Looks to my failing eyesight to be about 26.52 mm instead. The Blackhawk socket measures oversize a bit too at about 26.46 mm, but most sockets are generally a bit larger than nominal size.

I suppose I can go down to Lowe's and try some of their deep sockets to find one that more-or-less fits. I'm thinking maybe 27 mm or 1 1/16" sizes. I calculate that 1 1/16" is 26.98 mm. Did anyone else have this problem installing the LN filter adaptor?

Edited by Dennis Nicholls
  • Moderators
Posted

I spoke too soon.

I bought a 26 mm deep socket from eBay as nobody has them locally. It's a Blackhawk UW-526M, where Blackhawk is Proto's budget line. Today the LN filter adaptor arrived, and I tried a fit-check of the socket onto the adaptor. No go.

My analog caliper says the LN adaptor's nut size is bigger than 26 mm. Looks to my failing eyesight to be about 26.52 mm instead. The Blackhawk socket measures oversize a bit too at about 26.46 mm, but most sockets are generally a bit larger than nominal size.

I suppose I can go down to Lowe's and try some of their deep sockets to find one that more-or-less fits. I'm thinking maybe 27 mm or 1 1/16" sizes. Did anyone else have this problem installing the LN filter adaptor?

That is weird, it should use a 6 point 26MM deep socket.

Posted

I chose the Blackhawk tool because it's a 6 point impact-rated socket. I've found that impact sockets tend to be a closer fit to the nominal size than regular chrome plated sockets.

Posted

I think the issue of oil fill levels on these cars is greatly under-appreciated. The manuel is clear, it is to be checked oil HOT and after sitting for 20. The electric gauge has to have some seriously intense logarithms to properly calibrate drain down and oil temp in all conditions. There will be times when it is accurate, interestingly enough, it's pretty accurate when you use it in the condition mentioned. It is not accurate in many other conditions, and it needs to be emphasized, these things carry a lot of oil and the expansion is considerable. I'm willing to bet that a large percentage of 996's are overfilled. The question of the new cars with no dipsticks is one I've been very curious about, I have been assuming that the superior computer makes for more accuracy.

These engines are flat, draining takes a while and different oils drain differently at different temperatures. If you track it, take a cold reading on the stick and then after it sits for 15 after a hot 20 min session. Bear in mind you do not want it over the mark on the track with stiff suspension and track day tires.

,,,,,,and that is Bare,,,,or not, it can be a bear.

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