C2 sway bar end links

[CDN_Stig]

Do you need to do an alignment after replacement?

Stock bar on a 99 c2

[Loren]

No, the swaybar adds spring and resistance. As long as that is all you work on no alignment is needed.

[CDN_Stig]

Thanks, I figured as much. From the design it makes it looks like it is, but then I was thinking, how can anything this "flimsy" be holding the alignment. :)

At least I no longer have a clunk!!! wooo ... I lived with that for a year, wish I had changed it sooner.

Edited March 28, 2012 by CDN_Stig

[scottiemac]

Stig, what kind of a clunk were you experiencing? I've been chasing a noise in my front suspension for a while.

Mine usually happens when I back out of my driveway at an angle and one wheel drops down to the road before the other.

[CDN_Stig]

It's very likely as it appears only one of mine was actually broken. I'd also notice it mostly on certain potholes or manhole cover in which only one wheel is affected.

Something like going over a speedbump head on wouldn't normally cause it.

It was a dull clunk/thunk type noise.

They are reasonably cheap to replace and only 2 bolts. It was a bit more of a pain getting it to line up again, but now that I've done it once I'd consider it very easy if I had to do them again.

If you can get it on a hoist it was easier to tell by pushing up on the swaybar, I couldn't get it to move on the driveway.

If you are doing it yourself, plan on using a second jack to support the control arm, otherwise you'll have a hardtime getting it back in (and even out for that matter).

Mine sounded like the drivers side, but it was actually the passenger side that had the play in it (the boots were torn on them as well). Once they were off you could pop it in and out by hand.

[Jetskied]

Shake the links on both side of the car. You can feel or hear if there is a problem with the link.

[wrljet]

Shake the links on both side of the car. You can feel or hear if there is a problem with the link.

Do these links make clunking noises even if you can't feel any looseness?

I've got clunking on both ends when I enter or leave the garage and hit that sharp 2" jump.

Or other road conditions where there's lots of very small suspension movement, but abrupt.

Noise is exactly the same before and after M030 installation.

Nothing seemed worn when I had it all apart. Top strut bearings seem good.

Bill

[perryinva]

Your noise is likely tie rod ends. You would have noticed any issue with the links with the ROW M030 install when you put on the new ARBs. Usually the inner tie rods, but can be outers, as well. You can feel no play in the TREs when on the car, or on a lift, too much tension to be moved by hand. Once removed, the play in the joint is evident. Very annoying.

[wrljet]

And the tie rod ends make this noise over abrupt bumps, but not at all when rocking the steering?

Also, the rear end has a similar noise. What do they call that part on the rear, track rod?

Tie rod ends and rear toe contro/track rods all wear by 40,000 miles?

[paul-home]

And the tie rod ends make this noise over abrupt bumps, but not at all when rocking the steering?

Also, the rear end has a similar noise. What do they call that part on the rear, track rod?

Tie rod ends and rear toe contro/track rods all wear by 40,000 miles?

For some reason the inner tie rods can get clunky after not many miles. On one car the knock was very annoying and it has done just 37,000 miles. On another they were silent at 86,000 miles. They are not expensive or difficult to fit. A 32mm crows foot spanner makes the job easier though.

[wrljet]

Any common source of similar clunking at the rear, besides the stabilizer bar end links?

Someone had mentioned exhaust brackets. But wiggling around on the exhaust by hand doesn't make the noise.

[paul-home]

Any common source of similar clunking at the rear, besides the stabilizer bar end links?

Someone had mentioned exhaust brackets. But wiggling around on the exhaust by hand doesn't make the noise.

Besides the balljoint on the lower control arm, I have seen the balljoint on what they call the track control arm get worn (part no 99733104504 is the latest, but there are many numbers for the same item). Worth getting TRW genuine ones in my opinion. You can flex the balljoint if it is worn.

[brendel]

I have the same issue on my C4S 997, Loud clunk on both rear sides, I can make it happen 100% of the time if I am driving downhill and slightly braking on a moderately bad road ( 30 MPH), it does not happen if I don't break. The main part under braking stress is the Diagonal Arm ( track arm) but I recently changed my front ones and they were like new after 80KMiles, so I doubt it is worn

So Far I changed the sway bar bushings but it did not change anything, next step the sway bar links, but I will first dismantle everything to check for play not to purchase part unnecessarily

I will keep you updated

[RFM]

Knocking or rattle under the circumstances as you describe is usually the control arm(s) the culprit. It is a very slight misalignment of the uni ball, practically not felt by hand. Replacement is the best option.

[brendel]

Thanks RFM,

Do you mean the "coffin shaped" arm or the diagonal arm?

Sorry for asking

[brendel]

Hi RFM, I have just seen that you wrote arm (s)

This will cost me again an arm and a leg :jump:

I will check the diagonal arm first, it should be this one getting all braking stress, but at the same time the fact that the front ones had no issues makes me thinks Porsche finally designed something bulletproof (including the GT3 engine of course) , In the front the coffin arms were shot and I had to change them recently due to rattling, squeaking and all kind of other noises

Cheers

[RFM]

The control arm is the one which is fork-shaped on the wheel side.

[HalM]

Back to the OP's original question for a second, are the end links he is asking about another name for the drop links?

Thanks.

[Loren]

Back to the OP's original question for a second, are the end links he is asking about another name for the drop links?

Thanks.

Yes.