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Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm getting ready to try everything for the 60k service myself and was wondering if anybody had any thought's about it ?

When checking the serpentine belt and if it needs replaced is it common to replace the water pump also ?

My car is a 2001 Boxster with 59k on it. I only put 2 to 3k a year on it, and garage it through winter.

Also since my car doesn't have the traction control I should be able to use the Motive Power Bleeder and get a complete brake flush.

I've looked through just about all the DIY's and discussions so I'm feeling pretty confident.

Thanks

  • Moderators
Posted

Also since my car doesn't have the traction control I should be able to use the Motive Power Bleeder and get a complete brake flush.

You can use the Motive system on any Porsche; activation of the ABS/PSM system is only needed if you have gotten air into the ABS/PSM control system..................

Posted

Does that old fluid always stay in there than or does it eventually cycle with the rest ? My Bentley manual say's to use a Porsche tester that turns the valves on and off when flushing, if you have the PSM type.

I mean isn't the two year flush all about getting out all the fluid that might have moisture in it ? Especially the more expensive parts.

No advice on the water pump change out ?

Thanks

  • Moderators
Posted (edited)

If the PSM system is not cycled, a very tiny amount of old fluid may remain in the control unit, but even that will be flushed out by all the new fluid circulation in the system after a change out and normal usage. Just for a reference point, many dealer's do not cycle the PSM system during a system flush; it simply is not necessary unless air has gotten into the control network, and the amount of oil fluid it extracts is not meaningful.

Near 60K would be a worthwhile time frame to do the water pump; which also provides a great opportunity to flush out the old coolant, up date to a 106F thermostat, and add the "S" oil cooler if the car is a base model (best $200 you can spend on these cars).

Edited by JFP in PA
Posted

+1 on JFP's advice on the new water pump, 160F T-stat from L&N along with an 'S' cooler ( got mine from a dismantler from a 'S' Bxter for about $80.00 just make sure it's been flushed out and allowed to dry before you use it). I would also 'add' to your wish list the L&N spin on oil adapter and the mag oil plug all were VERY worth while and easy to install. Our Boxster runs cooler and there have been NO issues with the add on's. Spark plugs and a fuel filter would be a good idea as long as your wrenching on it now. Good luck...

Posted

Thanks very much guys. I'm waiting on the parts from Sunset to get started. I thought maybe I should spring for a water pump, so I will.

And yes I ordered the plugs and fuel filter already along with air filter and extra oil filters.

Posted

May i ask why the preventative water pump replacement? Surely an original water pump is good for more than 60k miles?

  • Moderators
Posted (edited)

The OEM design uses a composite impeller, which seems to harden and become brittle over time, eventually coming apart and strewing impossible to find or remove debris through the cooling system. These "bits" often plug small passages, leading to hot spots that can cause cracking in the heads or case. Obviously, you want to swap out the pump before this starts.

Aftermarket pumps use metal impellers, but these start to wobble, hitting the aluminum engine case wall and damaging it; so you don't want to go there either............

Edited by JFP in PA
Posted

Excellent reply JFP in PA.

Preventive maintenance, to prevent larger problems. When 11 years go by, and even though your not putting miles on it, you still have drastic temperature changes, accruing possible wear.

If you can afford it, it makes sense.

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