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Recommended Posts

  • Moderators
Posted

My general rule for G12 coolant has been to change it out every 10yr/100K miles which ever comes first. PH testing is also important as it is a key indicator of the health of the coolant.

VW G12 is my preferred fluid, as it is the same as Porsche coolant but at a much more reasonable price.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I purchased the PH test strips but am unsure as to what the proper PH level is for the coolant. Does anyone have an idea as to what the correct PH "range" would be for the 997?

  • Moderators
Posted (edited)

pH should be in the 9.5-10.0 range; coolant should be changed when it falls below 9.0; be cautious about how accurate test strips are, they change with age.

Edited by JFP in PA
Posted

WYAIT= while you are at it.. this tool me almost a cup of coffee to figure out.

WYSIATI= what you see is all there is (a cognitive explanition of why people more heavily weight visible items in decision making). - this was throwing me off.

  • 11 months later...
Posted

When you change the coolant on a 997, do you do a flush with water or some other solution before putting in the new coolant?

  • Moderators
Posted

When you change the coolant on a 997, do you do a flush with water or some other solution before putting in the new coolant?

Only if there is a problem with the existing coolant (e.g.: wrong coolant added, coolant contaminated, very dirty, etc.), otherwise dump the system (you will only get around 90-95% of it out without taking most of the car apart, so don't be overly concerned about how much drains), then refill (highly recommend doing so under vacuum) with premixed Porsche coolant and distilled water (very important) at a 50/50 ratio. You will be good to go for a long time.

Posted

Thanks JFP. I hadn't noticed until yesterday, but the coolant in the car I believe is orangish in color. To my knowledge it was never changed (I have all of the receipts from the PO). Was the original stuff orange in 2006? If I'm going from the original to the new pink stuff, do I need to flush or can it be mixed (5% old and 95% new)?

  • Moderators
Posted

Thanks JFP. I hadn't noticed until yesterday, but the coolant in the car I believe is orangish in color. To my knowledge it was never changed (I have all of the receipts from the PO). Was the original stuff orange in 2006? If I'm going from the original to the new pink stuff, do I need to flush or can it be mixed (5% old and 95% new)?

Yes, it should be pink/orange in color; in about 2002-2003, Porsche reformulated their coolant and the color changed from green to the pink/orange version. Both types are fully compatible with each other and can be mixed without issue.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Looks like the coolant on my 2007 has run below the 'minimum level' (see pic). My questions:

 

1) what is current recommendation for low coolant? Is it ok just to add to it or do I need to do some sort of 'flush' as described in this thread and if so how do I do this myself? I don't need to take this to a dealer right?

2) for coolant type should I buy the one on amazon in this thread and mix with distilled H2O? Is it a 50/50 mix at room temperature to add?

 

Best

Elliott

 

 

post-70550-0-49094900-1433860452_thumb.j

  • Admin
Posted

Looks like the coolant on my 2007 has run below the 'minimum level' (see pic). My questions:

 

1) what is current recommendation for low coolant? Is it ok just to add to it or do I need to do some sort of 'flush' as described in this thread and if so how do I do this myself? I don't need to take this to a dealer right?

2) for coolant type should I buy the one on amazon in this thread and mix with distilled H2O? Is it a 50/50 mix at room temperature to add?

 

Best

Elliott

 

If that is a photo of your coolant tank? - if yes, then you have a leaking (badly) cap and it should be replaced. They are not expensive.

 

Use Porsche or Porsche compatible coolant with distilled water 50/50 mix is best. Looks like you do not need much.

  • Moderators
Posted

A new cap is a priority, this one does not hold the predetermined pressure and is probably the cause of the coolant loss.

Posted

Thanks, guys! Since it's low risk seems like a good WYAIT if changing the coolant. One more for today: Should one also change the thermostat ("coolant regulator") as a WYAIT and, if so, does one need special tool P 9627 or is there another method that works as well?

Replacing the thermostat that comes with the new housing is the more cost effective approach given the cost of the tool required to install the thermo into the old housing. If you are you are going to r/r the water pump you should use this opportunity given time-already-spent on the water pump and coolant to replace the thermostat at the same time.

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