Boxster Dash Lighs Won't turn off. Battery Drains

[KFH2818]

I've posted this before but have been unable to resolve the problem.

I have a 1999 Boxster 2.5L Tip. A couple of months ago I noticed when I turn off the ignition the dash lights stay lit and the clock flashes as if it wants to be set. It will stay this way until it drains the battery. Usually in a couple of days. I have replaced the ignition switch at someones recommendation but no change. Further if the car is re-started the clock continues to flash for about 30 seconds then stops flashing as if normal. When stopped and ignition turned off it starts all over again. Dash lights on and clock flashing.

Can anyone tell me if they have seen this before and what can be done? There is no Porsche dealer where I live so I'm on my own here.

[Loren]

Sounds like a worn out ignition switch.

Does it change if you wiggle the key? If so, then the ignition switch for sure.

[KFH2818]

Hi Loren I have been here before with this. I have replaced the ignition switch. No change.

[Loren]

Ok, then starting checking your battery and alternator output.

[KFH2818]

What should I be looking for?

[Loren]

If your battery is over 4 years old then it is likely weak - I would replace it.

If it is less than 4 years old then do a load test (usually Autozone type stores can do this). Also test the specific gravity of each cell - replace the battery if any cells are low.

Test the voltage of the battery at rest (not running) - it should be about 12 volts.

Test the voltage of the battery with the engine running - it should be about 13-14 volts.

If not then you likely have a charging issue.

[KFH2818]

The battery is about 6 months old. It is a sealed unit so I can't check acid levels. I can however do the measurements.

Have you seen this cause this type of problem before?

[Dale_K]

Does the key make the normal loud "clank" sound when you remove it? As I remove my key I get the clank and the car's interior lights come on. My dash lights will stay on for several minutes after I shut down the car and walk away (I never lock my car).

I tested the drain on my battery and got about 21 milliamps. The way I tested it was to expose the battery and pull the negative cable. I took a set of vice grips and clamped one lead of the meter to the post and another set of vice grips and clamped the other lead to the cable end. The front trunk will be open and of course the light is on but it goes out after 2 hours. I waited the 2 hours before taking the reading and that's when I got the 21 milliamp reading.

I was having some problems with the battery failing to start the car. I bought a volt meter that plugs into the cigarette lighter and with a full charge on the battery from an external charger I saw 13.75 volts but gradually over a few days (no headlight use) the volt meter would drop back. After a couple weeks the battery wouldn't start the car. I'm used to car voltages being in the 14.5 volt range and I took the car to O'Reilly's and they put their tester on the car and pronounced the battery and charging system good.

I bought a new voltage regulator (mounted on the back of the alternator) but the voltage readings didn't change. Eventually somebody on one of the forums said my alternator was weak. I bought a remanufactured unit from the same O'Reilly store. The voltage level immediately went up to 14.4 volts while driving and I've never had another problem. From the details of your story I doubt you have an alternator problem but sometimes they can be "weak" and be difficult to diagnose. Mine would have been easier to figure out if the damned thing had quit completely.

[whall]

When you posted with this problem before, I suggested that you check to ensure that the time adjustment knob wasn't stuck IN.

I can replicate your problem by manually pushing and holding the adjustment knob IN when I turn off the ignition and pull the key out of the switch.

I only repeat this suggestion to ensure the knob isn't stuck IN because I didn't see, in your previous post, a response to the suggestion.

BTW, either adjustment knob will, if pushed in, illuminate the digital readout lights in the instrument cluster....even if the key is still in your pocket.

Bill

[KFH2818]

The key makes a normal clank sound and the hour light in the clock starts flashing as if needing to be set. If I restart the car it continues flashing for about 30 seconds and then changes to normal. I checked the time and odometer knobs and they do not appear to be stuck in. I also sprayed them with some contact cleaner. No change.

I also took battery readings of 13.2 volts on the fully charged battery with vehicle shut off and 14.44V with the engine running, so it appears the alternator is OK. I have not taken current readings to determine the shut down amount current draw, but I suspect it is more than 21MA as the battery will not last longer than 24 hours if not recharged.

Any other suggestions?

Edited September 29, 2011 by KFH2818

[KFH2818]

More information as I still have this problem... I have removed instrument cluster and cleaned up connectors , knobs etc. Put back together but no change.

Simplified the problem is as follows.. When I turn ignition off with key still in it the instrument cluster is on. When I pull the key half way out the cluster stay on and the clock starts to flash like it wants to be set. If I restart the car the clock will continue to flash for about 30 seconds then stop flashing. I have replaced the electrical portion of the ignition assembly.

Has anyone see this before.

Edited October 25, 2011 by KFH2818

[Loren]

Are you leaving the key in the ignition?

[whall]

You might try measuring the current draw with an ammeter across the battery posts. I have seen typical values of amperage draws here on RennTech - I just don't remember what they are.

If the current draw is in excess of "typical", pull he fuses - one at a time - to see which circuit is the culprit, Then you can address the system(s) that are drawing the power.

Bill

Edited October 25, 2011 by whall

[KFH2818]

Loren, When I shut off the ignition and leave the key in everything is normal. When I pull the key slightly out the clock starts flashing and will stay that way with ODO and spedometer lights on when I remove the key . When I put the key back in and start the engine it continues to flash for 30 seconds and then goes normal.

Whall, I have measured 350ma with dash lights on , when I pull the instrument cluster fuse it drops back to 25Ma. Which I beleive is normal.

I have put in a new ignition switch (electrical part) and have removed instrument cluster and inspected for broken wires and used contact cleaner whever possible.

I sure could use some help with this as I have to plug the car in every overnight or I get a dead battery in a couple of days.

[TJ Sexton]

I FIXED IT!!!

At least momentarily hopefully it will permanent.

Saved a whole lot of money and time!

THE STORY:

Our Boxster sat for 20 days covered while I was out of town. It's been colder in Los Angeles than usual as well as rainy and damp. Had to use the key, in the door, to unlock it. Had a kinda sluggish start, but fired just fine. Drove around the block to check the tire pressure making a tight right hand turn into the spot right in front of the compressor. Turned off and the steering wheel locked in the full right position. Had a tough time getting the Key to turn and the wheel to unlock (btw I do understand how to unlock a steering wheel :-P ). It was at that point that I noticed the clocks hour portion blinking as if it needed to be set.

RESEARCH:

Clock and Digital display wouldn't go away after the car was off or armed or unlocked or started with the valet key or if I pulled fast or slow or shook it or well... anything.

I spent a good amount of time messing with the car and trying things people suggested online. Including this thread. One thing I did notice is that when I pulled the key out the blinking moved from the hour to the minute position and visa-verse as I would pull out the key. The next thing I noticed was hat the Oil gauge was not showing when I moved the key to the #1 position. I then began to realize that it was multiple issues that allowed this maddening situation. Door locks, Memory system, computer, alarm, instrument panel, clock, Oil gauge, ignition system... It wasn't one thing it was all things.

DIAGNOSIS:

I had reasoned that some how or another the main computer system was overwhelmed. So I thought I'd try a "SYSTEM RE-SET" maybe a bit of a vacation for the cars mind but I didn't wan to disconnect the battery because then I would have to deal with a radio debacle. So I set out to remove and reset all the fuses that could possibly be associated with the main problem I was dealing with.

SOLUTION:

Here is what I removed and replaced:

B-1

B-5

B-8

B-10

C-1

C-2

C-3

C-7

E-1

E-2

E-5

-- After pulling the fuses listed above test each fuse to ensure they are working properly; if not get ones that work. (I tested all my fuses and they were fine.)

-- Then let the car sit fuse-less for 30 minutes to 1 hour. This is a must!

-- Then replace the proper fuses to their proper places. I don't know if the order matters but what does matter is to let the the car sit for at least 30 minutes before placing the fuses back in their proper places. This allows the computer to clear.

-- Start the car as you would normally.

This is has worked for me for 2 days, so far, and hopefully it will work for you too. I may not have had to pull all the fuses I did but, I did. It was easy, fast and solved the problem.

Let me know!!!! And I will let you know if it comes back.

Cheers,

[KFH2818]

Thanks . My car is in storage now for the winter but Ill definitely try this thanks a lot.

[logray]

Glad you got it sorted. Another alternative to removing and replacing all of those fuses would be to disconnect the negative lead from the battery.

[KFH2818]

Glad you got it sorted. Another alternative to removing and replacing all of those fuses would be to disconnect the negative lead from the battery.

Did remiving the fuses as decribed solve the problem permanently?

[KFH2818]

Problem solved. Replaced Instrument cluster. Cost $200 on EBay.

[Krafishing]

OK IF IT STILL DRAINS BATTERY AFTER CHANGING THE SWITCH I HAVE FOUND THE PROBLEM, the ignition switch has a little tit inside that turns in the beep sound when key is inserted, well I the actual key part of the ignition switch it pushed out as it turns to engage that tit, so when u turn if off the tit stays engaged because you can either change the key side of ignition, disconnect  the beeper or melt the tit down inside the switch so it cant make contact I did the later no more beeping and battery wont die.

[gunstar]

Thank you Whall.  That fixed my problem.  So much appreciated!!  After I set the clock when  we sprang forward it stayed on. After having to charge it several times i found your post.  Thank you again!!

[Loren]