Broken instrument knob between speedometer and odometer

[Silver_TT]

I have a broken instrument knob (part# 9664191100) between the speedometer and odometer -- see picture attachment. I was wondering how hard it is to replace this? Is it difficult to pull the speedometer/odometer console display out?

Has anyone posted a DIY on how to take the console out or even more specifically how to replace this knob? I did a search and didn't see this. I have a 2002 911 C4S.

Thanks much in advance....

[Loren]

[whall]

The shafts for the knobs on the instrument cluster are not available from either Porsche or VDO. They are only available from a cannibalized non-functional instrument cluster or from Brian in the link Loren posted above.

The following is the procedure for removing and re-installing your instrument cluster:

a. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal using the 10mm socket wrench. Cover the battery terminal to keep the cable from accidentally contacting the terminal. Make sure the hood doesn’t get closed and locked. And, you will need to have your radio security code handy.

b. Press hazard-warning button so it projects out. The button can be pulled off by hand. If needed, a small common screwdriver can be used to help remove the button. With the button removed, access to the switch is available. On either side of the switch there are two locking tabs. With thumb and forefinger squeeze the tabs and simultaneously pull the switch out using the long nosed pliers. Behind the switch is one of the two cluster mounting screws.

c. At the left side of the cluster, remove the trim plug/hand-free microphone. The plug can be removed if you have strong fingernails; or careful use a small common screwdriver. Disconnect any microphone wire. Behind the plug is the other cluster mounting screw.

d. Using a Torx drive, T-20, remove both cluster-mounting screws.

e. Have a towel, or other soft cloth, available to protect the dashboard from the clips that locate the instrument cluster on the dashboard. Remove the instrument cluster by lifting it straight up.

f. To remove the three plugs, use a small common screwdriver to push down the locking tab and lift the locking lever up. It is easier to get access to the back of the instrument cluster if the steering wheel is pulled all the way out.

g. Remove the hazard-warning switch plug by moving the locking tab sideways toward the center of the car and pulling the plug down and out of the cluster assembly.

h. Move the instrument cluster to a safe place.

a. With a towel or other soft cloth to protect the dashboard, lay the Carrera instrument cluster on top of the dashboard.

b. Reinstall the hazard-switch plug. It slides up in groves behind the hole and is held in position by a locking tab.

c. Reconnect the three colored plugs. Make sure they are firmly and squarely connected and that the locking levers are snapped into place.

d. Remove the cloth protecting the dashboard and place the instrument cluster in position and firmly push down on it to snap it into place on the dashboard.

e. Reinstall the two T-20 screws that secure the instrument cluster to the dashboard. Be careful replacing the left screw. If it falls before you can get it threaded, it will drop into the bowels of the dashboard.

f. Reinstall the hazard-warning switch. It only fits into the plug one way. But, of course, anything can be forced. The switch should fit smoothly and click into place.

g. Reinstall the hazard-warning button. It also clicks into place and should function properly when pushed on and off.

h. Reinstall the trim plug/hand-free microphone. Reconnect the wire to the microphone, if installed.

i. Reconnect the battery and tighten negative cable securely with 10mm socket wrench. Replace battery cover.

j. Reprogram your radio with the radio's security code.

Bill

Edited September 8, 2011 by whall

[bigchunk]

I Broke mine last year and also lost the knob after attempting to keep it for a repair in the future.

Bought a new button from Porsche (come in pairs, you get the clock one and the dimmer one too), stripped out the speedo head with instructions i found on hear somewhere, then drilled the broken shaft with a very small drill bit and then screwed in a self tapping screw (slightly larger thread diameter than the hole i drilled but quite long in length) after this i cut the head off the self tapping screw at the correct position that left the remainder of the screw at the same length required to match the undamaged shaft. Then i cut a straw and fitted it over the self tapping screw shaft and fitted the new button over that.

Works perfectly, although it did take me a few goes at getting the screw cut at the correct length (had more than one screw spare thankfully!) and make sure that you take your time when drilling the damaged shaft as you have to get it correct or when you put the new button on it will not be in line with the undamaged one.

[RatRanch]

Just curious guys, how did your knobs break off?

My used 2004 C4S came with a broken clock shaft, looking similar to the picture above. About 1/8" was still protruding. I performed a very acceptable fix using a short wooden dowel the same diameter as the broken shaft. I tapered one end with a hobby knife and inserted it into the clock knob. I put a small dab of epoxy glue on the end of the dowel and slipped a 1/2" section of black heat shrink tubing onto it. I pushed the knob/dowel onto the broken shaft and secured it with masking tape until the glue set.

The fix only took a few minutes and is invisible to anyone lacking a bright flashlight and magnifying glass!

[W4RD4DDY]

I just joined the forum to say thanks to everyone who contributed here and around this topic.

Dormant or not, this thread saved me a lot of time and money.

After my detail guy broke the clock knob in my wife’s 2003 986 S, an internet search sent me here.  I read a bit, contacted Brian, ordered two shafts and using the above steps by @whall and a couple of youtube videos for visual guidance, I’m back in stock configuration on the dash!

Also, IMHO: The shafts I received from Brian seem more sturdy/solid than the stock items, fwiw.

-Todd.