Window microswitch problem?

[slaskowski]

I am having an issue with my driver side window on my 2004 911 Cabriolet. When I open the door from either the inside/outside with the window extended, it goes down a bit when I open the door (as it is suppose to) but as soon as I let go of the handle it goes back up. Therefor when I shut the door the glass hits the top plastic frame of the Cabriolet (makes a horrible sound)

I pulled the following code below from my Durametric:

60

Central locking limit position

Lock not reached

Status: not present

Frequency counter: 1

I have seen in some other posts that it may be the window microswtich.

A couple of quick questions. In particular:

1) Does it sound like ti is a micoswitch issue?

2) Is is worth re-training the driver window (holding if for 5 seconds in each direction after the window comes to a stop)?

3) What is the part number of the microswitch in the drivers door?

4) Any postings on how to replace it?

5) Is it a ***** to do or is it relatively easy.

Thanks in advance - Steve

[Newfarm]

Sounds like it's the microswitch that tells the car wether the door is actually open or not that is borked. It probably thinks its closed all of the time. That should result in the behavior you're seeing.

That's unfortunately all I can contribute with, except for.... if you're going DIY, be careful when removing the cover over the inner door handle. It's very easy to break the uppermost fasteners / clips. Ask me how i learnt that today.

[Richard Hamilton]

Take a look here:

[slaskowski]

Richard - Wow, that is a very detailed write-up. Two quick questions for you (apologies in advance in the event that the questions are already addressed in your detailed write-up)

1) Is the "door open/closed microswitch" a separate switch or is it part of the whole lock assembly? I called up Sunset motors and they quoted me the entire lock assembly for $111. They are usually pretty good about these things, though I am hoping that they are wrong/incorrect this time :)

2) Do you know how hard it is to replace (or perhaps have a link to a write-up)?

I would live with the issue, however I have to valet my car at my apartment building and I grit my teach every time they shut the door with the top up (which they do 90% of the time for liability reasons).

Thanks - Steve

[slaskowski]

Thanks for the advice. Sorry that you had to learn the hard way.

Sounds like it's the microswitch that tells the car wether the door is actually open or not that is borked. It probably thinks its closed all of the time. That should result in the behavior you're seeing.

That's unfortunately all I can contribute with, except for.... if you're going DIY, be careful when removing the cover over the inner door handle. It's very easy to break the uppermost fasteners / clips. Ask me how i learnt that today.

[Richard Hamilton]

Richard - Wow, that is a very detailed write-up. Two quick questions for you (apologies in advance in the event that the questions are already addressed in your detailed write-up)

1) Is the "door open/closed microswitch" a separate switch or is it part of the whole lock assembly? I called up Sunset motors and they quoted me the entire lock assembly for $111. They are usually pretty good about these things, though I am hoping that they are wrong/incorrect this time :)

2) Do you know how hard it is to replace (or perhaps have a link to a write-up)?

I would live with the issue, however I have to valet my car at my apartment building and I grit my teach every time they shut the door with the top up (which they do 90% of the time for liability reasons).

Thanks - Steve

There are 5 separate switches inside the door lock assembly, and Porsche only sell the complete lock. The switches are like the broken one in the photo, and that was an open/close switch IIRC. If you are going to try a repair, all I can say is that you will have to improvise, I'm afraid. I don't know of a write-up, but if you are successful, get your camera out, and post some pics!

[Kim]

Richard - Wow, that is a very detailed write-up. Two quick questions for you (apologies in advance in the event that the questions are already addressed in your detailed write-up)

1) Is the "door open/closed microswitch" a separate switch or is it part of the whole lock assembly? I called up Sunset motors and they quoted me the entire lock assembly for $111. They are usually pretty good about these things, though I am hoping that they are wrong/incorrect this time :)

2) Do you know how hard it is to replace (or perhaps have a link to a write-up)?

The microswitch in question is an integral part of the door latch. I got my latch from Sunset, and that was the best deal I could find. I also replace the microswitch on each handle (interior and exterior) at the same time .... as they are relatively cheap and I didn't want to open up the door again.

Somewhere on this forum is the step-by-step I posted when I replaced these switches and the door latch. Its involved / complex .... but not terribly difficult. I started with Loren's DIY on removing the door panel, and worked by instinct from there. The window will need to be UP to reach into the door interior. YOu will need to tear off plastic water barrier, so have duct tape available to refasten it. If your arms / hands are large, sweet talk your wife into helping, because there are some tight spots inside that door .... especially when you are reassembling the handle to latch linkage. Watch carefully as you disassemble .... even take notes.

[Newfarm]

Just a little "for whatever its worth" - the water seal is said in the Porsche docs to be replaced if the entire thing is ever removed. If only three sides are loosened up, Porsche says you need to reseal with bytul (spelling?) - it's the horrible, black, sticky stuff that you'll find in these places. Used back in the day to seal front windscreens and what not.

I'm sure ductape should work as well though if you're very careful :).

[slaskowski]

I want to thank everyone for their replies above. I a new complete lock assembly for $111 from Sunset imports. My brother and I were both able to swap out the door lock mechanism in about 90 minutes. Problem solved.

Now I don't have to try to explain in Spanish not to roll the window up to the car wash person and parking valets :)

[Hurdigurdiman]

A few questions for any of you good fellows out there with regards to the clicking sounds coming from the alarm control unit under the drivers seat. Could one of you who's inside lights are working ok when you unlock the car via the key or remote, help me here please. Mine are not working via the key or remote but I can put them on manually from the inside light cluster. When I kneel next to the lower part of the door ( inside a very quiet garage) and unlock the car, I hear 2 clicks from the control unit after the louder click of the barrel moving . When I lock the car the same way, I hear 3 clicks after the barrel sound. By my only hearing 2 clicks after the barrel moving on unlocking the car, it makes me think that I should have a third click which maybe tells the alarm controller to make the inside lights ready to come on as I open the door. I do not hear the third click as I unlock the car. Would someone be so kind as to kneel next to their car and unlock and lock the car and listen and count the clicks coming from the alarm controller after the barrel moves. I am trying to find out if the controller is at fault and ready for a replacement. I think that may be the case as every other part of the door function ie:- windows and locks are working properly suggesting that all 7 micro switches inside the door are ok. I really do hope that one of you good guys can assist me with this problem Thanks in advance.. Mike

[RFM]

Hurdigurdiman, for any replies take a look at the topic you have started this morning

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/42862-inside-lights-door-lights-and-gas-cap-not-working/#entry229214