Not sure what these bolts are called, but...

[Scott in Houston]

I need the torque specifications for them.

They are the bolts that are located under the plastic on the left and right side of the car and they allow you to adjust the camber of the front wheels.

At the DE, I allowed a person more technical than me, to give me some negative camber, and afterwards, we returned them to their original position, but we tightened by hand.

He said he knew the torque requirement was low, so didn't tighten too much, but I want to make sure they're correct.

Any help Loren?

If you don't know what I'm talking about, I'll take a picture and upload.

TIAb

[Loren]

74 ft/lbs.

[Scott in Houston]

wow. That's a lot more than I thought. Is there any question as to which I'm talking about. Just to make sure (before I go tighten them), here's a picture.

And up close.... it's the 3 silver nuts that are in a triangle shape around the black disck....

Thanks Loren. Sorry I'm so anal, but I just want to make sure. I'm still a newb at working on my car in any form. :D

[Loren]

Those are the shock tower (spring strut) nuts not the camber adjustment bolts -- 63 ft/lbs

[Scott in Houston]

Those are the shock tower (spring strut) nuts not the camber adjustment bolts --  63 ft/lbs

Hmm...

Well, then I have another question.

At the DE, a friend loosened them, then removed that black cap and moved the piece that's underneath towards the center of the car on both sides. It was moved maybe a centimeter. The bolts were tightened and it stayed that way for the DE.

We had marked where the bolts were before moving it, and after the DE, moved it back to where the bolts lined up w/ their original markings again.

What did that actually do if it didn't adjust the camber?

[clord]

Scott....That may well have adjusted the camber toward the negative...how much we don't know...and we don't know if was the same on both sides. The other thing it definitely did was to change the toe of the front alignment. Again we don't know how much nor how evenly side to side. The steering rack and arms have been moved to infront of the front axel on the 996 (was behind on previous 911s), so, you probably added some unknown amount of toe out to whatever you originally had. This is all not an exact/predictiable way of setting your alignment. You may want to go get the front realigned to see where you are now, and set it to where you want to be.

[Mike in CA]

Scott,

I agree with Craig. If my local Porsche dealer knew that your friend was available to do "field alignments" by sight on 996's they probably could have saved the $100K plus they spent on their German made laser alignment rig. :D Seriously, these cars are very sensitive to proper alignment, and tiny changes in camber, toe, caster, etc can make a noticeable difference in handling. I'd be extremely skeptical about someone being able to just horse the suspension mounting bolts around by feel and achieve good results. :eek: Just my $.02.

[Scott in Houston]

I appreciate those responses. I was a little weary of it too. I trusted him. He also said it doesn't change alignment at all, but just camber. I will say on the drive home, my car tracked totally straight on level roads as it did before. Also during the DE, I noticed a decrease in understeer by quite a bit.

Also, my fronts are about done for, so I know I'll do an alignment when I change them anyway.

Basically, we moved it and moved it back to the exact same spot so it appears, but I hear what you're saying. Hmm... maybe it was a dumb idea.

I guess I really need to find out 'exactly' what it did. Anyone know for sure what it did?

[Scott in Houston]

Well son of a ....

The nut broke! $%#@

I have to take it in now. I'll find out all the answers then. Rats.

[Scott in Houston]

I hate myself right now. I set the torque wrench to 63 ft-lbs, but it still broke. Man, this is why I shouldn't do these things...

How do they get this out?! I'm also assuming I can drive to the dealer to get it fixed.

[Mike in CA]

I sympathize Scott. You've snapped off one of the three studs that secure the front strut to the upper mounting point in the chassis. I think those threaded mounting studs are integral with the strut which may mean you will need a new strut....hope I'm wrong about that. I would be VERY careful driving the car in that condition as you will be putting more strain on the other mounting attachements with that one broken off. Be careful and good luck.

[Scott in Houston]

Thanks. I'm just going a couple of miles and very slow.

Thanks for the input. I think it will be drivable b/c worse case scenario, I ruin it more than it is, and it's already proabably hosed.

I am so mad at myself right now I can barely see straight.

[RJFabCab]

Scott, sorry about the bad luck. :unsure: I'm no technician, but that whole adjustment deal was a little sketchy to me... I just couldn't see how the adjustments would be equal on both sides, whether it affected the alignment or not.

I wonder if the track adjustments with different torque specs on the different bolts led to unequal stress on the shaft that broke during all your high speed driving. Especially around turns 11/12 at +100 mph.

Drive safely, my friend.

RRRRRROOOOOOWWWWW000003333300000 with your new tires! :thumbup:

[b-man]

Scott, if you get a chance, take a very closeup picture of the bolt (the "inside" of both ends) where it cracked so I can see the "grain" of the metal. I am curious what the failure looks like. Also, what size hex head and cross section (thickness of the round shaft part) is it?

I wouldn't worry about it. Worse things could happen. You may not have done anything wrong. It may have been a defective part, although I doubt it.

Also, it's quite possible that the alignment was returned back to the previous setting when you returned it back to the markings. It depends on how careful you were. There is no magic to these things.

b-man

[Scott in Houston]

Thanks B-man. I'll see if I can get a good picture. It's hard to do in the garage b/c my lighting is so bad. I'll see if I can outside later.

Defective part is a good point. I need to make double sure that 63 ft-lbs is right.

Loren, can you post one of those tech pages that shows this info so I can take it w/ me?

That way it should be warranty coverage. I'll show them the torque wrench etc so they'll know.

[Scott in Houston]

These are the best pics I can get.

[b-man]

Thanks for the pics. What is the size of the hex head and the size of the cross section (thickness of the round shaft part) in mm?

b-man

[Scott in Houston]

Hex is 13mm

Not sure of shaft.