Convertible top dash light on

[Oldguy57]

Hello:

Just bought 3 weeks ago my first Porsche, a Boxster 1998. Every thing was working well with the car, but one day, after opening the convertible top and closing it, a plastic ball joint broke, top dash light went on. Went to the dealer, did buy the balljoint with the shaft, replaced it, top works fine but the dash light stills on and the windows will not go full up when the top is down. Went to the dealer to have some maintenance work done, told'em about the top dash light, belive it or not they found nothing wrong and the light was off when I picked up the car! but just open the top, light on, and stills on! Last monday my brake lever micro switch went off, so today bought the parts and decide to change the two micro switchs, the one at the brake lever, and the one at the latch, light is on again, and stills ON.

I think is probably an adjustment, because, at the end of the closing cycle, I have to really pull the top to its place to latch it, and I have the feeling that the latch isn't going all in, even if everything seems OK. But as I open it, everything goes well and the latch does not touches the plexiglass of the windshield.

Any ideas!

Thans in advance for any help!

[mcmike27]

I agree the cable stop ajustment is out of whack. Thats why the top isnt cycling all the way to the end of it's travel and making you have to yank the latch closed. You can adjust those cables on each side. Located next to each tensioner cable is a screw. Loosen each side the same. When your sitting in the car and closing the top watch as it comes overheard and then stop it and eyeball the distance each side is away from the front top. If there is a noticeable difference adjust accordingly. You'll see the top 'extend' to reach the end positon and the TOP LIGHT will go out when it reaches the end of it's travel. Maurice is a great 'top' expert here and can answer any specific top operating issues.

Good luck

m2

[Oldguy57]

I agree the cable stop ajustment is out of whack. Thats why the top isnt cycling all the way to the end of it's travel and making you have to yank the latch closed. You can adjust those cables on each side. Located next to each tensioner cable is a screw. Loosen each side the same. When your sitting in the car and closing the top watch as it comes overheard and then stop it and eyeball the distance each side is away from the front top. If there is a noticeable difference adjust accordingly. You'll see the top 'extend' to reach the end positon and the TOP LIGHT will go out when it reaches the end of it's travel. Maurice is a great 'top' expert here and can answer any specific top operating issues.

Good luck

m2

m2, Thanks a lot for your reply, after work this evening I'll try to locate those tensioner cables and hope I'll be able to adjust it.

Yes, I've been reading posts from Maurice and it's been helping me to "navigate trought this convertible top thing". As I told you I'm new to a Porsche Boxster.

Thanks a lot!

Good day

Fermin

[1schoir]

Hello:

Just bought 3 weeks ago my first Porsche, a Boxster 1998. Every thing was working well with the car, but one day, after opening the convertible top and closing it, a plastic ball joint broke, top dash light went on. Went to the dealer, did buy the balljoint with the shaft, replaced it, top works fine but the dash light stills on and the windows will not go full up when the top is down. Went to the dealer to have some maintenance work done, told'em about the top dash light, belive it or not they found nothing wrong and the light was off when I picked up the car! but just open the top, light on, and stills on! Last monday my brake lever micro switch went off, so today bought the parts and decide to change the two micro switchs, the one at the brake lever, and the one at the latch, light is on again, and stills ON.

I think is probably an adjustment, because, at the end of the closing cycle, I have to really pull the top to its place to latch it, and I have the feeling that the latch isn't going all in, even if everything seems OK. But as I open it, everything goes well and the latch does not touches the plexiglass of the windshield.

Any ideas!

Thans in advance for any help!

Guy:

First of all, we like photos and we try to avoid other Dealers whenever practicable.

....balljoint with the shaft, replaced it, top works fine but the dash light stills on and the windows will not go full up when the top is down....

There are two instances where the light can stay on abnormally. The one you are describing here (top all the way open) is controlled in part by the black lever microswitch that resides on top of the convertible top electric motor ((Just forward of the third brake light). In other part, it is controlled by the Double Relay in the driver's side kickpanel. It's the only double relay there so you can't miss it...

You can temporarily defeat this little annoyance by devising either a stack of 1/4" thick blocks of semi-sturdy styrofoam and installing them one a time, on top of the electric motor housing, or, better yet, under the clamshell where it makes contact with that "Black Lever Microswitch. Alternatively, some garages have used a different method, which includes installing (by glue) a suitable spring on the underside of the clamshell such that it will trip the black lever microswith a tad sooner and thereby "fool" the top into "thinking" that it is time to start the "comfort close feature" or "after-running time) as Porsche usually refers to it in its manuals. Here you just have to make sure that the spring can hit, and then DEPRESS" the black lever microswitch.

Let us know how you make out and what, if any symptoms have left. Unless the dealer is in a good mood, avoid it like the proverbial plague.

FYI, this is one of the few (perhaps even the "only") area of the early (i.e., "A Version") transmissions and set-up that still is providing a bit of a challenge. However, some of you description may provide some useful info to add to the community wisdom here, so,

We'll see how that tidbit develops. In the meantime, try the two solutions I suggested and report back.

...decide to change the two micro switchs, the one at the brake lever, and the one at the latch, light is on again, and stills ON....

The brake lever microswitch, when the dashboard idiot light is illuminated, is normal when you pull up on the handbrake and... that is what lets you know that power to the convertible top motor is going to be turned on.

The other microswtich (actually there are TWO inside that latch assembly) is the one that has to get tripped/released, in order to keep working properly.

If your windows drop the requisite (approximately 4 inches) when you pull on it, then at least one of the two microswitches inside the latch assembly is just fine.

To check out the other one, do a search here or go to Mike Focke's Boxster Pages (Google it) to get a number of articles that will familiarize you with the top.

..Congratulations on your new ride.! and remember, we LOVE pics....

.Best Regards, Maurice.

[michaelwalker123]

Hello:

Just bought 3 weeks ago my first Porsche, a Boxster 1998. Every thing was working well with the car, but one day, after opening the convertible top and closing it, a plastic ball joint broke, top dash light went on. Went to the dealer, did buy the balljoint with the shaft, replaced it, top works fine but the dash light stills on and the windows will not go full up when the top is down. Went to the dealer to have some maintenance work done, told'em about the top dash light, belive it or not they found nothing wrong and the light was off when I picked up the car! but just open the top, light on, and stills on! Last monday my brake lever micro switch went off, so today bought the parts and decide to change the two micro switchs, the one at the brake lever, and the one at the latch, light is on again, and stills ON.

I think is probably an adjustment, because, at the end of the closing cycle, I have to really pull the top to its place to latch it, and I have the feeling that the latch isn't going all in, even if everything seems OK. But as I open it, everything goes well and the latch does not touches the plexiglass of the windshield.

Any ideas!

Thans in advance for any help!

Guy,

I have a 2006 987S with a different top relay set up but have had a similar problem. The dealer could not dupolicate it even after adjusting tenson cables and fold placements straps. Ultimately I found I had to continue holding down the close switch a second or two beyond what looked like the end of the cycle. When I do this I don't have the problem. If I let up right when the clamshell is closed and there is no more movement, I get the top light and open window problem. Might be worth a try.

MW

[Oldguy57]

Hello:

Just bought 3 weeks ago my first Porsche, a Boxster 1998. Every thing was working well with the car, but one day, after opening the convertible top and closing it, a plastic ball joint broke, top dash light went on. Went to the dealer, did buy the balljoint with the shaft, replaced it, top works fine but the dash light stills on and the windows will not go full up when the top is down. Went to the dealer to have some maintenance work done, told'em about the top dash light, belive it or not they found nothing wrong and the light was off when I picked up the car! but just open the top, light on, and stills on! Last monday my brake lever micro switch went off, so today bought the parts and decide to change the two micro switchs, the one at the brake lever, and the one at the latch, light is on again, and stills ON.

I think is probably an adjustment, because, at the end of the closing cycle, I have to really pull the top to its place to latch it, and I have the feeling that the latch isn't going all in, even if everything seems OK. But as I open it, everything goes well and the latch does not touches the plexiglass of the windshield.

Any ideas!

Thans in advance for any help!

Guy:

First of all, we like photos and we try to avoid other Dealers whenever practicable.

....balljoint with the shaft, replaced it, top works fine but the dash light stills on and the windows will not go full up when the top is down....

There are two instances where the light can stay on abnormally. The one you are describing here (top all the way open) is controlled in part by the black lever microswitch that resides on top of the convertible top electric motor ((Just forward of the third brake light). In other part, it is controlled by the Double Relay in the driver's side kickpanel. It's the only double relay there so you can't miss it...

You can temporarily defeat this little annoyance by devising either a stack of 1/4" thick blocks of semi-sturdy styrofoam and installing them one a time, on top of the electric motor housing, or, better yet, under the clamshell where it makes contact with that "Black Lever Microswitch. Alternatively, some garages have used a different method, which includes installing (by glue) a suitable spring on the underside of the clamshell such that it will trip the black lever microswith a tad sooner and thereby "fool" the top into "thinking" that it is time to start the "comfort close feature" or "after-running time) as Porsche usually refers to it in its manuals. Here you just have to make sure that the spring can hit, and then DEPRESS" the black lever microswitch.

Let us know how you make out and what, if any symptoms have left. Unless the dealer is in a good mood, avoid it like the proverbial plague.

FYI, this is one of the few (perhaps even the "only") area of the early (i.e., "A Version") transmissions and set-up that still is providing a bit of a challenge. However, some of you description may provide some useful info to add to the community wisdom here, so,

We'll see how that tidbit develops. In the meantime, try the two solutions I suggested and report back.

...decide to change the two micro switchs, the one at the brake lever, and the one at the latch, light is on again, and stills ON....

The brake lever microswitch, when the dashboard idiot light is illuminated, is normal when you pull up on the handbrake and... that is what lets you know that power to the convertible top motor is going to be turned on.

The other microswtich (actually there are TWO inside that latch assembly) is the one that has to get tripped/released, in order to keep working properly.

If your windows drop the requisite (approximately 4 inches) when you pull on it, then at least one of the two microswitches inside the latch assembly is just fine.

To check out the other one, do a search here or go to Mike Focke's Boxster Pages (Google it) to get a number of articles that will familiarize you with the top.

..Congratulations on your new ride.! and remember, we LOVE pics....

.Best Regards, Maurice.

Hello Maurice:

Thanks a lot for your reply. I just tried two layers, one at a time, of 1/4 in black, self stick medium density foam, gluing them on the micro switch contact point on the clamshell without success, do I have to use a more dense foam? Also tried michaelwakers123's 1 second more on the switch, and also it didn't make any difference.

I did not visualise how to install the spring you told me to try, again should I use a more strudy foam?

Two more observations:

When I unlatch the top, the windos drops 4 inches, stand for a sec or two, and the they drop, one at a time totally, some time the two, sometimes just one.

When I open the top, and when it get's at the end of the cycle, when I hear the motor begin to stress and the clamshell is fully closed, if I push the top switch again to continue the cycle, it seems to me that the clamshell tries to open again, weird, isn't it?

As for the dealer, well I went there to have some of my car's history. But I'll try to find a independent gagrage, cause the only thing "high end" there is the overpriced service, well overpriced, and it seems to me that they do not have any interest in working with older cars, should be their pride!

Again thanks a lot and I do not know what to try anymore, maybe as m2 suggested, the tensioner cables?

Have a nice day!

Fermin

I did try to attach a pic of my ride, but file too big, so I'll try to take a more "light" pic this week end.

[1schoir]

Hello:

Just bought 3 weeks ago my first Porsche, a Boxster 1998. Every thing was working well with the car, but one day, after opening the convertible top and closing it, a plastic ball joint broke, top dash light went on. Went to the dealer, did buy the balljoint with the shaft, replaced it, top works fine but the dash light stills on and the windows will not go full up when the top is down. Went to the dealer to have some maintenance work done, told'em about the top dash light, belive it or not they found nothing wrong and the light was off when I picked up the car! but just open the top, light on, and stills on! Last monday my brake lever micro switch went off, so today bought the parts and decide to change the two micro switchs, the one at the brake lever, and the one at the latch, light is on again, and stills ON.

I think is probably an adjustment, because, at the end of the closing cycle, I have to really pull the top to its place to latch it, and I have the feeling that the latch isn't going all in, even if everything seems OK. But as I open it, everything goes well and the latch does not touches the plexiglass of the windshield.

Any ideas!

Thans in advance for any help!

Guy:

First of all, we like photos and we try to avoid other Dealers whenever practicable.

....balljoint with the shaft, replaced it, top works fine but the dash light stills on and the windows will not go full up when the top is down....

There are two instances where the light can stay on abnormally. The one you are describing here (top all the way open) is controlled in part by the black lever microswitch that resides on top of the convertible top electric motor ((Just forward of the third brake light). In other part, it is controlled by the Double Relay in the driver's side kickpanel. It's the only double relay there so you can't miss it...

You can temporarily defeat this little annoyance by devising either a stack of 1/4" thick blocks of semi-sturdy styrofoam and installing them one a time, on top of the electric motor housing, or, better yet, under the clamshell where it makes contact with that "Black Lever Microswitch. Alternatively, some garages have used a different method, which includes installing (by glue) a suitable spring on the underside of the clamshell such that it will trip the black lever microswith a tad sooner and thereby "fool" the top into "thinking" that it is time to start the "comfort close feature" or "after-running time) as Porsche usually refers to it in its manuals. Here you just have to make sure that the spring can hit, and then DEPRESS" the black lever microswitch.

Let us know how you make out and what, if any symptoms have left. Unless the dealer is in a good mood, avoid it like the proverbial plague.

FYI, this is one of the few (perhaps even the "only") area of the early (i.e., "A Version") transmissions and set-up that still is providing a bit of a challenge. However, some of you description may provide some useful info to add to the community wisdom here, so,

We'll see how that tidbit develops. In the meantime, try the two solutions I suggested and report back.

...decide to change the two micro switchs, the one at the brake lever, and the one at the latch, light is on again, and stills ON....

The brake lever microswitch, when the dashboard idiot light is illuminated, is normal when you pull up on the handbrake and... that is what lets you know that power to the convertible top motor is going to be turned on.

The other microswtich (actually there are TWO inside that latch assembly) is the one that has to get tripped/released, in order to keep working properly.

If your windows drop the requisite (approximately 4 inches) when you pull on it, then at least one of the two microswitches inside the latch assembly is just fine.

To check out the other one, do a search here or go to Mike Focke's Boxster Pages (Google it) to get a number of articles that will familiarize you with the top.

..Congratulations on your new ride.! and remember, we LOVE pics....

.Best Regards, Maurice.

Hello Maurice:

Thanks a lot for your reply. I just tried two layers, one at a time, of 1/4 in black, self stick medium density foam, gluing them on the micro switch contact point on the clamshell without success, do I have to use a more dense foam? Also tried michaelwakers123's 1 second more on the switch, and also it didn't make any difference.

I did not visualise how to install the spring you told me to try, again should I use a more strudy foam?

Two more observations:

When I unlatch the top, the windos drops 4 inches, stand for a sec or two, and the they drop, one at a time totally, some time the two, sometimes just one.

When I open the top, and when it get's at the end of the cycle, when I hear the motor begin to stress and the clamshell is fully closed, if I push the top switch again to continue the cycle, it seems to me that the clamshell tries to open again, weird, isn't it?

As for the dealer, well I went there to have some of my car's history. But I'll try to find a independent gagrage, cause the only thing "high end" there is the overpriced service, well overpriced, and it seems to me that they do not have any interest in working with older cars, should be their pride!

Again thanks a lot and I do not know what to try anymore, maybe as m2 suggested, the tensioner cables?

Have a nice day!

Fermin

I did try to attach a pic of my ride, but file too big, so I'll try to take a more "light" pic this week end.

Fermin:

We are definitely on the same page, especially the part that expressed the sentiment that their "older" cars should be the source of tremendous pride...I guess it just doesn't accrue to their proverbial bottom line...It's a short-sighted view in my experience, but greed or financial obligations of certain dealer's make it so. Shame of them....literally! .... .....

Anyway, the fact that you mention that your windows sort of drop independently of each other may mean that there is some moisture/damage/corrosion in the immobiliser unit (under the driver's seat, small, flat, black box). That unit gets wet if the convertible top drains are not always kept clear, as that causes water ingress (and, of course, the water promptly finds its way into the passenger cabin and toasts the unit!

The other possibility for that "independent of each other dropping of the windows upon pulling the convertible top latch" may be a faulty double relay (kick panel to the left of your left calf as you sit in the driver's seat

), so it might be worth checking that out, maybe even with another member's working relay. The article that I referred you to will show you photos of the two different types of relays (i.e., Black Triangle on its top surface or Black Rectangle/Square on the top surface of the double relay).

With respect to the spring, it has to be a reasonably subtantial one that gets glued on or attached to the underside of the clamshell, but it size (perhaps conical, tapered on the end that faces the black lever microswitch on top of the electric motor. The sping then compresses to not interfere with the tight fitting clamshell when it is full down. It's a little Rube Goldberg, but some mechanics have used it successfully.

As far as weirdness:

"...When I open the top, and when it get's at the end of the cycle, when I hear the motor begin to stress and the clamshell is fully closed, if I push the top switch again to continue the cycle, it seems to me that the clamshell tries to open again, weird, isn't it?..."

, it's not so weird.

There are a number of factors which affect that last little bit of travel of the leading edge of the convertible top frame...The amount of tension on the tensioner cables which act on the rearmost main bow, the overall length of the front pushrods, AND, on '97 to '99 Boxsters, there is also the bend in the silver metal tiny arm of the B-Pillar Microswitch to consider.

If the B-pillar microswitch's lever is too "open" from its original shape, that will cause it to contact (and then be tripped by) the base of the B-pillar of the convertible top frame. That may also explain the "weird" nature of the problem as that contact causes a signal to travel through the wires to the double relay, which then "dictates": to the electric motor when to stop turning the V-levers. You can experiment with shortening/lengthening the overall length of the front pushrods, as that will also affect how the leading edges of the top will line up with the windshield frame.

Note that it is NOT a linear progression and that, once you reach maximum extension, the V-levers will continue to spin for 1 of 2 seconds and then you will notice that the top starts to pull back. It can then "rock" back and forth, so keep that in mind.

If, as you mentioned in an earlier post, you have to "pull the front of the top " to make it stretch a little to get it into the fully closed and latched position, then that is something that you can try to ameliorate by adjusting the overall length of the front pushrods: loosen the 10mm bolt with fat washer (after marking your starting position with nail polish or something equivalent) and push the two parts of each one together VERY SLIGHTLY and then tighten the 10mm bolt back on .

Be careful with the 10mm bolt and fat washer because the drain hole underneath the V-levers area seems to have magical magnetic properties HaHa)and it has eaten many stray bolts and such. LOL!

M2's suggestions is a good one, so , see

Keep us posted and I'm looking forward to seeing pics.

Regards, Maurice.

[Oldguy57]

Hello:

Just bought 3 weeks ago my first Porsche, a Boxster 1998. Every thing was working well with the car, but one day, after opening the convertible top and closing it, a plastic ball joint broke, top dash light went on. Went to the dealer, did buy the balljoint with the shaft, replaced it, top works fine but the dash light stills on and the windows will not go full up when the top is down. Went to the dealer to have some maintenance work done, told'em about the top dash light, belive it or not they found nothing wrong and the light was off when I picked up the car! but just open the top, light on, and stills on! Last monday my brake lever micro switch went off, so today bought the parts and decide to change the two micro switchs, the one at the brake lever, and the one at the latch, light is on again, and stills ON.

I think is probably an adjustment, because, at the end of the closing cycle, I have to really pull the top to its place to latch it, and I have the feeling that the latch isn't going all in, even if everything seems OK. But as I open it, everything goes well and the latch does not touches the plexiglass of the windshield.

Any ideas!

Thans in advance for any help!

Guy:

First of all, we like photos and we try to avoid other Dealers whenever practicable.

....balljoint with the shaft, replaced it, top works fine but the dash light stills on and the windows will not go full up when the top is down....

There are two instances where the light can stay on abnormally. The one you are describing here (top all the way open) is controlled in part by the black lever microswitch that resides on top of the convertible top electric motor ((Just forward of the third brake light). In other part, it is controlled by the Double Relay in the driver's side kickpanel. It's the only double relay there so you can't miss it...

You can temporarily defeat this little annoyance by devising either a stack of 1/4" thick blocks of semi-sturdy styrofoam and installing them one a time, on top of the electric motor housing, or, better yet, under the clamshell where it makes contact with that "Black Lever Microswitch. Alternatively, some garages have used a different method, which includes installing (by glue) a suitable spring on the underside of the clamshell such that it will trip the black lever microswith a tad sooner and thereby "fool" the top into "thinking" that it is time to start the "comfort close feature" or "after-running time) as Porsche usually refers to it in its manuals. Here you just have to make sure that the spring can hit, and then DEPRESS" the black lever microswitch.

Let us know how you make out and what, if any symptoms have left. Unless the dealer is in a good mood, avoid it like the proverbial plague.

FYI, this is one of the few (perhaps even the "only") area of the early (i.e., "A Version") transmissions and set-up that still is providing a bit of a challenge. However, some of you description may provide some useful info to add to the community wisdom here, so,

We'll see how that tidbit develops. In the meantime, try the two solutions I suggested and report back.

...decide to change the two micro switchs, the one at the brake lever, and the one at the latch, light is on again, and stills ON....

The brake lever microswitch, when the dashboard idiot light is illuminated, is normal when you pull up on the handbrake and... that is what lets you know that power to the convertible top motor is going to be turned on.

The other microswtich (actually there are TWO inside that latch assembly) is the one that has to get tripped/released, in order to keep working properly.

If your windows drop the requisite (approximately 4 inches) when you pull on it, then at least one of the two microswitches inside the latch assembly is just fine.

To check out the other one, do a search here or go to Mike Focke's Boxster Pages (Google it) to get a number of articles that will familiarize you with the top.

..Congratulations on your new ride.! and remember, we LOVE pics....

.Best Regards, Maurice.

Hello Maurice:

Thanks a lot for your reply. I just tried two layers, one at a time, of 1/4 in black, self stick medium density foam, gluing them on the micro switch contact point on the clamshell without success, do I have to use a more dense foam? Also tried michaelwakers123's 1 second more on the switch, and also it didn't make any difference.

I did not visualise how to install the spring you told me to try, again should I use a more strudy foam?

Two more observations:

When I unlatch the top, the windos drops 4 inches, stand for a sec or two, and the they drop, one at a time totally, some time the two, sometimes just one.

When I open the top, and when it get's at the end of the cycle, when I hear the motor begin to stress and the clamshell is fully closed, if I push the top switch again to continue the cycle, it seems to me that the clamshell tries to open again, weird, isn't it?

As for the dealer, well I went there to have some of my car's history. But I'll try to find a independent gagrage, cause the only thing "high end" there is the overpriced service, well overpriced, and it seems to me that they do not have any interest in working with older cars, should be their pride!

Again thanks a lot and I do not know what to try anymore, maybe as m2 suggested, the tensioner cables?

Have a nice day!

Fermin

I did try to attach a pic of my ride, but file too big, so I'll try to take a more "light" pic this week end.

Fermin:

We are definitely on the same page, especially the part that expressed the sentiment that their "older" cars should be the source of tremendous pride...I guess it just doesn't accrue to their proverbial bottom line...It's a short-sighted view in my experience, but greed or financial obligations of certain dealer's make it so. Shame of them....literally! .... .....

Anyway, the fact that you mention that your windows sort of drop independently of each other may mean that there is some moisture/damage/corrosion in the immobiliser unit (under the driver's seat, small, flat, black box). That unit gets wet if the convertible top drains are not always kept clear, as that causes water ingress (and, of course, the water promptly finds its way into the passenger cabin and toasts the unit!

The other possibility for that "independent of each other dropping of the windows upon pulling the convertible top latch" may be a faulty double relay (kick panel to the left of your left calf as you sit in the driver's seat

), so it might be worth checking that out, maybe even with another member's working relay. The article that I referred you to will show you photos of the two different types of relays (i.e., Black Triangle on its top surface or Black Rectangle/Square on the top surface of the double relay).

With respect to the spring, it has to be a reasonably subtantial one that gets glued on or attached to the underside of the clamshell, but it size (perhaps conical, tapered on the end that faces the black lever microswitch on top of the electric motor. The sping then compresses to not interfere with the tight fitting clamshell when it is full down. It's a little Rube Goldberg, but some mechanics have used it successfully.

As far as weirdness:

"...When I open the top, and when it get's at the end of the cycle, when I hear the motor begin to stress and the clamshell is fully closed, if I push the top switch again to continue the cycle, it seems to me that the clamshell tries to open again, weird, isn't it?..."

, it's not so weird.

There are a number of factors which affect that last little bit of travel of the leading edge of the convertible top frame...The amount of tension on the tensioner cables which act on the rearmost main bow, the overall length of the front pushrods, AND, on '97 to '99 Boxsters, there is also the bend in the silver metal tiny arm of the B-Pillar Microswitch to consider.

If the B-pillar microswitch's lever is too "open" from its original shape, that will cause it to contact (and then be tripped by) the base of the B-pillar of the convertible top frame. That may also explain the "weird" nature of the problem as that contact causes a signal to travel through the wires to the double relay, which then "dictates": to the electric motor when to stop turning the V-levers. You can experiment with shortening/lengthening the overall length of the front pushrods, as that will also affect how the leading edges of the top will line up with the windshield frame.

Note that it is NOT a linear progression and that, once you reach maximum extension, the V-levers will continue to spin for 1 of 2 seconds and then you will notice that the top starts to pull back. It can then "rock" back and forth, so keep that in mind.

If, as you mentioned in an earlier post, you have to "pull the front of the top " to make it stretch a little to get it into the fully closed and latched position, then that is something that you can try to ameliorate by adjusting the overall length of the front pushrods: loosen the 10mm bolt with fat washer (after marking your starting position with nail polish or something equivalent) and push the two parts of each one together VERY SLIGHTLY and then tighten the 10mm bolt back on .

Be careful with the 10mm bolt and fat washer because the drain hole underneath the V-levers area seems to have magical magnetic properties HaHa)and it has eaten many stray bolts and such. LOL!

M2's suggestions is a good one, so , see

Keep us posted and I'm looking forward to seeing pics.

Regards, Maurice.

Hello Maurice:

First of all, THANKS A LOT! for taking time to do a very nice,long, detailed and helpfull replies!

I did check under the driver's seat carpet, and it looks very clean and no traces of water, but it could be cleaned by the previous owner.

On my relay board I have two double relays, tried to pull the one marked with a yellow arrouw, but very difficult and I'm sacred to break something, is that the top relay? it's black, no marks at all!

Also I forgot to mention, the previous owner told the used car lot where I got the car, that the convertible top was replaced three years ago,and the fellow that sold me the car, told me to be carefull closing the top and verify for the correct aligment on the two sides, to push the cables inside the frame, before colpetely coling the top. Actually, I have problems most with the driver's side, I noted (trying to find the B-pillar micro, where is it?) that on this side, there's a little retainer pin broken, the one in the picture, other side is OK, this might be causing the alignment problem, but not the dash light ON, isn't it?

Finally, I hope, a picture of my ride! for me it was a dream to have a Boxster, and liked a lot the firsts ones, so after 30 years of work and raised a familly, finally I got it!

Thanks again, I'll try to work on the alignment of the pushrods, being very careful, I'm allways scared of breaking something. Best regards:

Fermin

(Also sorry for my english, it's not my first language.)

[Oldguy57]

Hello:

Just bought 3 weeks ago my first Porsche, a Boxster 1998. Every thing was working well with the car, but one day, after opening the convertible top and closing it, a plastic ball joint broke, top dash light went on. Went to the dealer, did buy the balljoint with the shaft, replaced it, top works fine but the dash light stills on and the windows will not go full up when the top is down. Went to the dealer to have some maintenance work done, told'em about the top dash light, belive it or not they found nothing wrong and the light was off when I picked up the car! but just open the top, light on, and stills on! Last monday my brake lever micro switch went off, so today bought the parts and decide to change the two micro switchs, the one at the brake lever, and the one at the latch, light is on again, and stills ON.

I think is probably an adjustment, because, at the end of the closing cycle, I have to really pull the top to its place to latch it, and I have the feeling that the latch isn't going all in, even if everything seems OK. But as I open it, everything goes well and the latch does not touches the plexiglass of the windshield.

Any ideas!

Thans in advance for any help!

Guy:

First of all, we like photos and we try to avoid other Dealers whenever practicable.

....balljoint with the shaft, replaced it, top works fine but the dash light stills on and the windows will not go full up when the top is down....

There are two instances where the light can stay on abnormally. The one you are describing here (top all the way open) is controlled in part by the black lever microswitch that resides on top of the convertible top electric motor ((Just forward of the third brake light). In other part, it is controlled by the Double Relay in the driver's side kickpanel. It's the only double relay there so you can't miss it...

You can temporarily defeat this little annoyance by devising either a stack of 1/4" thick blocks of semi-sturdy styrofoam and installing them one a time, on top of the electric motor housing, or, better yet, under the clamshell where it makes contact with that "Black Lever Microswitch. Alternatively, some garages have used a different method, which includes installing (by glue) a suitable spring on the underside of the clamshell such that it will trip the black lever microswith a tad sooner and thereby "fool" the top into "thinking" that it is time to start the "comfort close feature" or "after-running time) as Porsche usually refers to it in its manuals. Here you just have to make sure that the spring can hit, and then DEPRESS" the black lever microswitch.

Let us know how you make out and what, if any symptoms have left. Unless the dealer is in a good mood, avoid it like the proverbial plague.

FYI, this is one of the few (perhaps even the "only") area of the early (i.e., "A Version") transmissions and set-up that still is providing a bit of a challenge. However, some of you description may provide some useful info to add to the community wisdom here, so,

We'll see how that tidbit develops. In the meantime, try the two solutions I suggested and report back.

...decide to change the two micro switchs, the one at the brake lever, and the one at the latch, light is on again, and stills ON....

The brake lever microswitch, when the dashboard idiot light is illuminated, is normal when you pull up on the handbrake and... that is what lets you know that power to the convertible top motor is going to be turned on.

The other microswtich (actually there are TWO inside that latch assembly) is the one that has to get tripped/released, in order to keep working properly.

If your windows drop the requisite (approximately 4 inches) when you pull on it, then at least one of the two microswitches inside the latch assembly is just fine.

To check out the other one, do a search here or go to Mike Focke's Boxster Pages (Google it) to get a number of articles that will familiarize you with the top.

..Congratulations on your new ride.! and remember, we LOVE pics....

.Best Regards, Maurice.

Hello Maurice:

Thanks a lot for your reply. I just tried two layers, one at a time, of 1/4 in black, self stick medium density foam, gluing them on the micro switch contact point on the clamshell without success, do I have to use a more dense foam? Also tried michaelwakers123's 1 second more on the switch, and also it didn't make any difference.

I did not visualise how to install the spring you told me to try, again should I use a more strudy foam?

Two more observations:

When I unlatch the top, the windos drops 4 inches, stand for a sec or two, and the they drop, one at a time totally, some time the two, sometimes just one.

When I open the top, and when it get's at the end of the cycle, when I hear the motor begin to stress and the clamshell is fully closed, if I push the top switch again to continue the cycle, it seems to me that the clamshell tries to open again, weird, isn't it?

As for the dealer, well I went there to have some of my car's history. But I'll try to find a independent gagrage, cause the only thing "high end" there is the overpriced service, well overpriced, and it seems to me that they do not have any interest in working with older cars, should be their pride!

Again thanks a lot and I do not know what to try anymore, maybe as m2 suggested, the tensioner cables?

Have a nice day!

Fermin

I did try to attach a pic of my ride, but file too big, so I'll try to take a more "light" pic this week end.

Fermin:

We are definitely on the same page, especially the part that expressed the sentiment that their "older" cars should be the source of tremendous pride...I guess it just doesn't accrue to their proverbial bottom line...It's a short-sighted view in my experience, but greed or financial obligations of certain dealer's make it so. Shame of them....literally! .... .....

Anyway, the fact that you mention that your windows sort of drop independently of each other may mean that there is some moisture/damage/corrosion in the immobiliser unit (under the driver's seat, small, flat, black box). That unit gets wet if the convertible top drains are not always kept clear, as that causes water ingress (and, of course, the water promptly finds its way into the passenger cabin and toasts the unit!

The other possibility for that "independent of each other dropping of the windows upon pulling the convertible top latch" may be a faulty double relay (kick panel to the left of your left calf as you sit in the driver's seat

), so it might be worth checking that out, maybe even with another member's working relay. The article that I referred you to will show you photos of the two different types of relays (i.e., Black Triangle on its top surface or Black Rectangle/Square on the top surface of the double relay).

With respect to the spring, it has to be a reasonably subtantial one that gets glued on or attached to the underside of the clamshell, but it size (perhaps conical, tapered on the end that faces the black lever microswitch on top of the electric motor. The sping then compresses to not interfere with the tight fitting clamshell when it is full down. It's a little Rube Goldberg, but some mechanics have used it successfully.

As far as weirdness:

"...When I open the top, and when it get's at the end of the cycle, when I hear the motor begin to stress and the clamshell is fully closed, if I push the top switch again to continue the cycle, it seems to me that the clamshell tries to open again, weird, isn't it?..."

, it's not so weird.

There are a number of factors which affect that last little bit of travel of the leading edge of the convertible top frame...The amount of tension on the tensioner cables which act on the rearmost main bow, the overall length of the front pushrods, AND, on '97 to '99 Boxsters, there is also the bend in the silver metal tiny arm of the B-Pillar Microswitch to consider.

If the B-pillar microswitch's lever is too "open" from its original shape, that will cause it to contact (and then be tripped by) the base of the B-pillar of the convertible top frame. That may also explain the "weird" nature of the problem as that contact causes a signal to travel through the wires to the double relay, which then "dictates": to the electric motor when to stop turning the V-levers. You can experiment with shortening/lengthening the overall length of the front pushrods, as that will also affect how the leading edges of the top will line up with the windshield frame.

Note that it is NOT a linear progression and that, once you reach maximum extension, the V-levers will continue to spin for 1 of 2 seconds and then you will notice that the top starts to pull back. It can then "rock" back and forth, so keep that in mind.

If, as you mentioned in an earlier post, you have to "pull the front of the top " to make it stretch a little to get it into the fully closed and latched position, then that is something that you can try to ameliorate by adjusting the overall length of the front pushrods: loosen the 10mm bolt with fat washer (after marking your starting position with nail polish or something equivalent) and push the two parts of each one together VERY SLIGHTLY and then tighten the 10mm bolt back on .

Be careful with the 10mm bolt and fat washer because the drain hole underneath the V-levers area seems to have magical magnetic properties HaHa)and it has eaten many stray bolts and such. LOL!

M2's suggestions is a good one, so , see

Keep us posted and I'm looking forward to seeing pics.

Regards, Maurice.

Hello Maurice:

First of all, THANKS A LOT! for taking time to do a very nice,long, detailed and helpfull replies!

I did check under the driver's seat carpet, and it looks very clean and no traces of water, but it could be cleaned by the previous owner.

On my relay board I have two double relays, tried to pull the one marked with a yellow arrouw, but very difficult and I'm sacred to break something, is that the top relay? it's black, no marks at all!

Also I forgot to mention, the previous owner told the used car lot where I got the car, that the convertible top was replaced three years ago,and the fellow that sold me the car, told me to be carefull closing the top and verify for the correct aligment on the two sides, to push the cables inside the frame, before colpetely coling the top. Actually, I have problems most with the driver's side, I noted (trying to find the B-pillar micro, where is it?) that on this side, there's a little retainer pin broken, the one in the picture, other side is OK, this might be causing the alignment problem, but not the dash light ON, isn't it?

Finally, I hope, a picture of my ride! for me it was a dream to have a Boxster, and liked a lot the firsts ones, so after 30 years of work and raised a familly, finally I got it!

Thanks again, I'll try to work on the alignment of the pushrods, being very careful, I'm allways scared of breaking something. Best regards:

Fermin

(Also sorry for my english, it's not my first language.)

Hello again:

Here's the pic of my 98 Boxster!

Finally! Regards

Fermin

[Oldguy57]

Hello:

Just bought 3 weeks ago my first Porsche, a Boxster 1998. Every thing was working well with the car, but one day, after opening the convertible top and closing it, a plastic ball joint broke, top dash light went on. Went to the dealer, did buy the balljoint with the shaft, replaced it, top works fine but the dash light stills on and the windows will not go full up when the top is down. Went to the dealer to have some maintenance work done, told'em about the top dash light, belive it or not they found nothing wrong and the light was off when I picked up the car! but just open the top, light on, and stills on! Last monday my brake lever micro switch went off, so today bought the parts and decide to change the two micro switchs, the one at the brake lever, and the one at the latch, light is on again, and stills ON.

I think is probably an adjustment, because, at the end of the closing cycle, I have to really pull the top to its place to latch it, and I have the feeling that the latch isn't going all in, even if everything seems OK. But as I open it, everything goes well and the latch does not touches the plexiglass of the windshield.

Any ideas!

Thans in advance for any help!

Guy:

First of all, we like photos and we try to avoid other Dealers whenever practicable.

....balljoint with the shaft, replaced it, top works fine but the dash light stills on and the windows will not go full up when the top is down....

There are two instances where the light can stay on abnormally. The one you are describing here (top all the way open) is controlled in part by the black lever microswitch that resides on top of the convertible top electric motor ((Just forward of the third brake light). In other part, it is controlled by the Double Relay in the driver's side kickpanel. It's the only double relay there so you can't miss it...

You can temporarily defeat this little annoyance by devising either a stack of 1/4" thick blocks of semi-sturdy styrofoam and installing them one a time, on top of the electric motor housing, or, better yet, under the clamshell where it makes contact with that "Black Lever Microswitch. Alternatively, some garages have used a different method, which includes installing (by glue) a suitable spring on the underside of the clamshell such that it will trip the black lever microswith a tad sooner and thereby "fool" the top into "thinking" that it is time to start the "comfort close feature" or "after-running time) as Porsche usually refers to it in its manuals. Here you just have to make sure that the spring can hit, and then DEPRESS" the black lever microswitch.

Let us know how you make out and what, if any symptoms have left. Unless the dealer is in a good mood, avoid it like the proverbial plague.

FYI, this is one of the few (perhaps even the "only") area of the early (i.e., "A Version") transmissions and set-up that still is providing a bit of a challenge. However, some of you description may provide some useful info to add to the community wisdom here, so,

We'll see how that tidbit develops. In the meantime, try the two solutions I suggested and report back.

...decide to change the two micro switchs, the one at the brake lever, and the one at the latch, light is on again, and stills ON....

The brake lever microswitch, when the dashboard idiot light is illuminated, is normal when you pull up on the handbrake and... that is what lets you know that power to the convertible top motor is going to be turned on.

The other microswtich (actually there are TWO inside that latch assembly) is the one that has to get tripped/released, in order to keep working properly.

If your windows drop the requisite (approximately 4 inches) when you pull on it, then at least one of the two microswitches inside the latch assembly is just fine.

To check out the other one, do a search here or go to Mike Focke's Boxster Pages (Google it) to get a number of articles that will familiarize you with the top.

..Congratulations on your new ride.! and remember, we LOVE pics....

.Best Regards, Maurice.

Hello Maurice:

Thanks a lot for your reply. I just tried two layers, one at a time, of 1/4 in black, self stick medium density foam, gluing them on the micro switch contact point on the clamshell without success, do I have to use a more dense foam? Also tried michaelwakers123's 1 second more on the switch, and also it didn't make any difference.

I did not visualise how to install the spring you told me to try, again should I use a more strudy foam?

Two more observations:

When I unlatch the top, the windos drops 4 inches, stand for a sec or two, and the they drop, one at a time totally, some time the two, sometimes just one.

When I open the top, and when it get's at the end of the cycle, when I hear the motor begin to stress and the clamshell is fully closed, if I push the top switch again to continue the cycle, it seems to me that the clamshell tries to open again, weird, isn't it?

As for the dealer, well I went there to have some of my car's history. But I'll try to find a independent gagrage, cause the only thing "high end" there is the overpriced service, well overpriced, and it seems to me that they do not have any interest in working with older cars, should be their pride!

Again thanks a lot and I do not know what to try anymore, maybe as m2 suggested, the tensioner cables?

Have a nice day!

Fermin

I did try to attach a pic of my ride, but file too big, so I'll try to take a more "light" pic this week end.

Fermin:

We are definitely on the same page, especially the part that expressed the sentiment that their "older" cars should be the source of tremendous pride...I guess it just doesn't accrue to their proverbial bottom line...It's a short-sighted view in my experience, but greed or financial obligations of certain dealer's make it so. Shame of them....literally! .... .....

Anyway, the fact that you mention that your windows sort of drop independently of each other may mean that there is some moisture/damage/corrosion in the immobiliser unit (under the driver's seat, small, flat, black box). That unit gets wet if the convertible top drains are not always kept clear, as that causes water ingress (and, of course, the water promptly finds its way into the passenger cabin and toasts the unit!

The other possibility for that "independent of each other dropping of the windows upon pulling the convertible top latch" may be a faulty double relay (kick panel to the left of your left calf as you sit in the driver's seat

), so it might be worth checking that out, maybe even with another member's working relay. The article that I referred you to will show you photos of the two different types of relays (i.e., Black Triangle on its top surface or Black Rectangle/Square on the top surface of the double relay).

With respect to the spring, it has to be a reasonably subtantial one that gets glued on or attached to the underside of the clamshell, but it size (perhaps conical, tapered on the end that faces the black lever microswitch on top of the electric motor. The sping then compresses to not interfere with the tight fitting clamshell when it is full down. It's a little Rube Goldberg, but some mechanics have used it successfully.

As far as weirdness:

"...When I open the top, and when it get's at the end of the cycle, when I hear the motor begin to stress and the clamshell is fully closed, if I push the top switch again to continue the cycle, it seems to me that the clamshell tries to open again, weird, isn't it?..."

, it's not so weird.

There are a number of factors which affect that last little bit of travel of the leading edge of the convertible top frame...The amount of tension on the tensioner cables which act on the rearmost main bow, the overall length of the front pushrods, AND, on '97 to '99 Boxsters, there is also the bend in the silver metal tiny arm of the B-Pillar Microswitch to consider.

If the B-pillar microswitch's lever is too "open" from its original shape, that will cause it to contact (and then be tripped by) the base of the B-pillar of the convertible top frame. That may also explain the "weird" nature of the problem as that contact causes a signal to travel through the wires to the double relay, which then "dictates": to the electric motor when to stop turning the V-levers. You can experiment with shortening/lengthening the overall length of the front pushrods, as that will also affect how the leading edges of the top will line up with the windshield frame.

Note that it is NOT a linear progression and that, once you reach maximum extension, the V-levers will continue to spin for 1 of 2 seconds and then you will notice that the top starts to pull back. It can then "rock" back and forth, so keep that in mind.

If, as you mentioned in an earlier post, you have to "pull the front of the top " to make it stretch a little to get it into the fully closed and latched position, then that is something that you can try to ameliorate by adjusting the overall length of the front pushrods: loosen the 10mm bolt with fat washer (after marking your starting position with nail polish or something equivalent) and push the two parts of each one together VERY SLIGHTLY and then tighten the 10mm bolt back on .

Be careful with the 10mm bolt and fat washer because the drain hole underneath the V-levers area seems to have magical magnetic properties HaHa)and it has eaten many stray bolts and such. LOL!

M2's suggestions is a good one, so , see

Keep us posted and I'm looking forward to seeing pics.

Regards, Maurice.

Hello Maurice:

First of all, THANKS A LOT! for taking time to do a very nice,long, detailed and helpfull replies!

I did check under the driver's seat carpet, and it looks very clean and no traces of water, but it could be cleaned by the previous owner.

On my relay board I have two double relays, tried to pull the one marked with a yellow arrouw, but very difficult and I'm sacred to break something, is that the top relay? it's black, no marks at all!

Also I forgot to mention, the previous owner told the used car lot where I got the car, that the convertible top was replaced three years ago,and the fellow that sold me the car, told me to be carefull closing the top and verify for the correct aligment on the two sides, to push the cables inside the frame, before colpetely coling the top. Actually, I have problems most with the driver's side, I noted (trying to find the B-pillar micro, where is it?) that on this side, there's a little retainer pin broken, the one in the picture, other side is OK, this might be causing the alignment problem, but not the dash light ON, isn't it?

Finally, I hope, a picture of my ride! for me it was a dream to have a Boxster, and liked a lot the firsts ones, so after 30 years of work and raised a familly, finally I got it!

Thanks again, I'll try to work on the alignment of the pushrods, being very careful, I'm allways scared of breaking something. Best regards:

Fermin

(Also sorry for my english, it's not my first language.)

Hello again:

Here's the pic of my 98 Boxster!

Finally! Regards

Fermin

Hello Maurice:

About...

The other possibility for that "independent of each other dropping of the windows upon pulling the convertible top latch" may be a faulty double relay (kick panel to the left of your left calf as you sit in the driver's seat

), so it might be worth checking that out, maybe even with another member's working relay.

I finally decided to give the double relay mentionned a good pull. Once I had it in hand I tapped it on a hard surface (as mentionned in one of your posts) and when installed again the light went OFF ! but as soon as I open the top, the idiot dash light goes ON and it stays ON, again pulled out the relay, tapped again on a hard surface, and the light goes OFF with the top open, windows go up all the way!! yes!! but as soon as I close the convertible top, light goes ON again and... stays ON, so I belive is a faulty double relay, don't you think so? I'll try to get one at the dealer tomorrow,I think is an expensive relay, but I'm quite sure it will cure the problem, hope so!

Best regards:

Fermin

[Oldguy57]

Well bad news, the new relay($$) didn't get the problem solved, could it be the B-Pillar microswitch (haven't been able to get to it) or the black box? :( It seems that I'll have to live with this dash light on!

The car dealer that sold me the car, changed the battery, cuold this be also part of the problem? Again, I'm lost with this!

Any more ideas or help will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Best regards!

Fermin

[Oldguy57]

Hello again:

Well finally I did access the B-pillar micro switch, bend the arm a bit but my dash idiot light stills ON. I've tried everything, as I said changed the brake lever's, and top latch's micro switches, cleaned the motor and B-pillar ones (they clic OK), changed the double relay, nothing... light stays ON. But... if I unplug and put back the relay in any on the top positions, closed, open or halfway, then I restart the engine, light stays OFF, but as soon as it detects any top movement it goes ON and stays on, until I take off the relay and put it back again! Really I'm lost now, could it be that the used car dealer that sold me the car changed the battery?

First day I took delivery of the car, was a very nice day, the top was open, and I didn't care to check it with the dealer, obviously a 13 year old car has no warranty whatsoever. Once took it to a Porsche dealer and the didn't find the problem also :unsure: , I think I'll have to live with it, the problem is that when the top is open, the windows will not go up all the way, they do when the convertible top is closed.

Any ideas or advise will be greatly appreciated!

Best regards everybody!

Fermin

[Oldguy57]

Hello again:

Well finally I did access the B-pillar micro switch, bend the arm a bit but my dash idiot light stills ON. I've tried everything, as I said changed the brake lever's, and top latch's micro switches, cleaned the motor and B-pillar ones (they clic OK), changed the double relay, nothing... light stays ON. But... if I unplug and put back the relay in any on the top positions, closed, open or halfway, then I restart the engine, light stays OFF, but as soon as it detects any top movement it goes ON and stays on, until I take off the relay and put it back again! Really I'm lost now, could it be that the used car dealer that sold me the car changed the battery?

First day I took delivery of the car, was a very nice day, the top was open, and I didn't care to check it with the dealer, obviously a 13 year old car has no warranty whatsoever. Once took it to a Porsche dealer and the didn't find the problem also :unsure: , I think I'll have to live with it, the problem is that when the top is open, the windows will not go up all the way, they do when the convertible top is closed.

Any ideas or advise will be greatly appreciated!

Best regards everybody!

Fermin

Hello everybody:

Finally got the answer from Mr Mike Focke, I wasn't holding the convertible top switch long enough after the electric motor began forcing, so the cycle wasn't complete, :oops: finally the light is OFF! had to hold that switch for 4-5 sec more! at first was very scared to do that because of the sound of the motor forcing, and the used car dealer that sold me my Boxster told me to STOP as soon as I heard the motor forcing. so I was a bit lost woth this issue, but now I do not see the light!

Thanks again Mike, Maurice and everybody for your input!

Best regards!

Fermin