Ignition electrical component replacement

[otisdriftwood]

Just wondering if anyone has any magic tips that make getting to the screws on the electrical part of the ingition easier to get to. I have the duct removed from the bottom, but I can's seem to get a good angle to get at the screws. Its really tight under there for me. Do I need to try to get the duct out that runs up the drivers side? Also, what size flat blade is it exactly, and whats the best way to get the sealing paint out? I hate to take it in, but I've been messing with it for 2 days now....

Thanks in advance for any advice. BTW 1998 Boxster

Jim

[Loren]

and the connected topic link

[Keith Hatfield]

Just wondering if anyone has any magic tips that make getting to the screws on the electrical part of the ingition easier to get to. I have the duct removed from the bottom, but I can's seem to get a good angle to get at the screws. Its really tight under there for me. Do I need to try to get the duct out that runs up the drivers side? Also, what size flat blade is it exactly, and whats the best way to get the sealing paint out? I hate to take it in, but I've been messing with it for 2 days now....

Thanks in advance for any advice. BTW 1998 Boxster

Jim

Hi Jim, I've done this twice now. Once in 2006 and about 2 weeks ago. I happen to have a very short, narrow tipped screw driver for crafts and stuff. Actually my wife's. I've read elsewhere that some people have cut theirs to make it shorter and ground or filed it to make theirs narrower. If it is not short enough you can't get the right angle on it. Think watch or jewelry repair tools but only the shortest ones. I didn't have to remove the 2nd duct. If you can get those screws out you are home free. Dealer the other day quoted me about $475 to fix it. BTW, I removed the driver's seat. Made it easier but now my air bag light is on continuously. Manual says I need a PST2 machine to reset the airbag system. How come the manual didn't mention this under the part about taking the chair out !!!

[otisdriftwood]

Ok got the screws out and removed the old component. It was cracked. Go figure. Now I put in the new one, and I think I did everything right, but no start. I'm pretty sure I got the key extension male to line up with the switch female. Went through with gentle pressure on the switch and gently turning the key, but then try to start and nothing. Everything else works. About ready to fire bomb this thing!!!! By the way, there was a silver ring around the old switch, and nothing like it on the new one. Old is to the right, new one to the left.

Any suggestions? Or since I have it in service mode now, would I be better off just to replace the whole ignition with the updated part?

Is it possible that I got a bad switch as a replacement?

Edited June 14, 2011 by otisdriftwood

[Keith Hatfield]

Ok got the screws out and removed the old component. It was cracked. Go figure. Now I put in the new one, and I think I did everything right, but no start. I'm pretty sure I got the key extension male to line up with the switch female. Went through with gentle pressure on the switch and gently turning the key, but then try to start and nothing. Everything else works. About ready to fire bomb this thing!!!! By the way, there was a silver ring around the old switch, and nothing like it on the new one. Old is to the right, new one to the left.

Any suggestions? Or since I have it in service mode now, would I be better off just to replace the whole ignition with the updated part?

Is it possible that I got a bad switch as a replacement?

I haven't done the full ignition replacement. I wonder how much work that is because replacing this faulty piece is getting old. In your picture, on the wide end which sits on the table, the three protruding plastic prongs have different shapes. One is square and the other two are round. When you marry these with the other part of the ignition, if you get these squares and rounds matched correctly, you can't get it in wrong. If you have to force it much, they are in the wrong holes. When they are in the right holes it should snug up and all the metal connecting tabs go in the proper slots.

[N41EF]

I don't think you have the right part. The white one is a new design, and the black one is the original design. Not sure when they made the change but the older boxsters had the black switches originally, and Porsche's answer is to replace the rntire mechanical part of the switch with the new white part. I don't think the black switch fits correctly in the new design. I think you need the new white switch part to replace it.

Do a search on ognition switch replacement, should find several write ups.

[stateofidleness]

I don't think you have the right part. The white one is a new design, and the black one is the original design. Not sure when they made the change but the older boxsters had the black switches originally, and Porsche's answer is to replace the rntire mechanical part of the switch with the new white part. I don't think the black switch fits correctly in the new design. I think you need the new white switch part to replace it.

Do a search on ognition switch replacement, should find several write ups.

I did the same thing few weeks back. Looks like you have the wrong part.

Also, for me, the easiest way to remove and install was to remove the light switch knob and backing from the dash and "work from above". It's like 3 extra hex screws and it comes right out. I was able to actually see the part from above and didn't have to "guess" at it or "translate" what the little mirror was telling me from underneath.

Much easier this way.

[otisdriftwood]

Thats strange as I ordered the part from Pelican, and it was listed for my year without upgraded ignition.The steel ring comes off, and it looks just like the new one. If that is in fact the wrong part, what part number should I be looking for?

[N41EF]

If the electrical portion of your switch is white, I'm pretty sure your ignition switch has already been replaced once. So you would need to "new" switch portion.

[otisdriftwood]

Well, the part number 4A0905849 is on the white part with the Audi symbol next to it. So I've decided to swap out the whole thing. Picked up the part From Sunset for $130, and will work on it tomorrow after I get back from fishing. I'll let you all know how it goes. Thanks for the advice/input.

Jim

[willars]

RennTech rocks! After reading the above posts and related posts, I replaced my ignition switch myself, taking care of the key sticking and a check engine light that I'm sure was the result of a short from nothaving the key lined up just right. Car runs great, no more issues and saved atleast $300. Thanks all!

Edited July 18, 2011 by willars