99 Cab Manual 56K miles

[Dntlvet]

I have three BMWs and I'd like to consider a new to me car.

http://appleton.craigslist.org/cto/2369744218.html

This is a local car.

1. What do I sak owner (service history, accidents, accidents)

2. What do I expect to pay for PPI and what approximate costs and what needs to be done?

3. Should I be looking toward a newer car with newer technology?

4. What might I expect.

Thanks, this is my second post

I appreciate your advice.

[logray]

It is a fantastically fun car and that looks to be a fine example. :thumbup:

There are a ton of 1999 cars still on the road with no problems whatsoever. Some say the 1999-2001 mark 1 M96 engine (while it has it's faults - porous blocks, coolant starvation, scored cylinders), is a little beefier having 5 chains and a dual row IMS bearing than the 2002+ models with 3 timing chains and a single row IMS bearing. These cars like to be driven hard and not kept in a garage as a beauty queen. A 1999 car with such low miles would scare me a little, but not completely if the PPI came clean.

That being said, in a great PPI scenario aside from the normal things like service history, accident damage, carfax, flooding, smog (requirement depending on where you live), etc, I would have the following checked. Unfortunately the cost of all of these things might scare the typical owner away, you would probably pay a reputable shop in the neighborhood of 3-4 hours of shop time to have most of these things completed. (in a "dream" PPI scenario removing the transmission would add another 4-6 hours and not a huge payoff for most).

These are the critical areas I would check out:

Ask the owner if he's kept the oil topped off, many of these cars burn oil at a regular rate by design.

Engine compression, leakdown, endoscope

Inspect oil & filter (oil change) - check for abnormalities, excessively leaking areas

Condition and level of lube in transmission

Condition of coolant (correct color, hydrometer, electrolysis, no leaks)

Check the computer for DTCs & abnormal camshaft deviation values

Check for smoke at startup (water vapor is OK, anything else is not)

If a problem arose in some of these areas it would not scare me off, but I would want to address them quickly:

Ask the owner what MPG he gets, if its in the ballpark 17-19 street & 23-27 highway that is a good sign things are in good nick.

Remove oil filler cap with engine running, should be able to remove easily

T/B inspection for excessive oil deposits (a little is ok)

Condition of clutch

If the transmission is removed in that dream scenario:

Check the clutch and flywheel.

Check the crankshaft for concentricity tolerance

Check the condition of RMS seal & IMS flange (or short of removing the transmission at least check for excessive oil leaking near the bell housing mating area).

Bonus inspections would be:

Removing sump plate and inspect for debris

Check for vacuum leaks

I would ask is the PO if the following have been done (if they haven't and it runs OK, I would budget $2-3k to have them done by a reputable shop, you'll enjoy years and years of worry/trouble free motoring if you do):

RMS gasket replacement ($20 part)

IMS bearing retrofit ($400-800 part)

Air oil separator replacement ($150 part)

Water pump replacement ($250-300 part)

Good luck!

[Dntlvet]

It is a fantastically fun car and that looks to be a fine example. :thumbup:

There are a ton of 1999 cars still on the road with no problems whatsoever. Some say the 1999-2001 mark 1 M96 engine (while it has it's faults - porous blocks, coolant starvation, scored cylinders), is a little beefier having 5 chains and a dual row IMS bearing than the 2002+ models with 3 timing chains and a single row IMS bearing. These cars like to be driven hard and not kept in a garage as a beauty queen. A 1999 car with such low miles would scare me a little, but not completely if the PPI came clean.

That being said, in a great PPI scenario aside from the normal things like service history, accident damage, carfax, flooding, smog (requirement depending on where you live), etc, I would have the following checked. Unfortunately the cost of all of these things might scare the typical owner away, you would probably pay a reputable shop in the neighborhood of 3-4 hours of shop time to have most of these things completed. (in a "dream" PPI scenario removing the transmission would add another 4-6 hours and not a huge payoff for most).

These are the critical areas I would check out:

Ask the owner if he's kept the oil topped off, many of these cars burn oil at a regular rate by design.

Engine compression, leakdown, endoscope

Inspect oil & filter (oil change) - check for abnormalities, excessively leaking areas

Condition and level of lube in transmission

Condition of coolant (correct color, hydrometer, electrolysis, no leaks)

Check the computer for DTCs & abnormal camshaft deviation values

Check for smoke at startup (water vapor is OK, anything else is not)

If a problem arose in some of these areas it would not scare me off, but I would want to address them quickly:

Ask the owner what MPG he gets, if its in the ballpark 17-19 street & 23-27 highway that is a good sign things are in good nick.

Remove oil filler cap with engine running, should be able to remove easily

T/B inspection for excessive oil deposits (a little is ok)

Condition of clutch

If the transmission is removed in that dream scenario:

Check the clutch and flywheel.

Check the crankshaft for concentricity tolerance

Check the condition of RMS seal & IMS flange (or short of removing the transmission at least check for excessive oil leaking near the bell housing mating area).

Bonus inspections would be:

Removing sump plate and inspect for debris

Check for vacuum leaks

I would ask is the PO if the following have been done (if they haven't and it runs OK, I would budget $2-3k to have them done by a reputable shop, you'll enjoy years and years of worry/trouble free motoring if you do):

RMS gasket replacement ($20 part)

IMS bearing retrofit ($400-800 part)

Air oil separator replacement ($150 part)

Water pump replacement ($250-300 part)

Good luck!

Thank you for the wishes of good luck.

I am very impressed with this useful reply.

Perhaps I am better off going to a Porsche dealer to reduce odds of big problems.

If I go for a PPI and there is 3-4 hrs of inspection, we can be sure they will find some work.

My gues this PPI will cost ~$500-700

If the extra things are done ~$1500

What is a fair way to approach the price valuation @ $26,900?

Appreciate all advice.

[logray]

Well I suppose that depends on what the PPI says. :)

Certified pre owned with a warranty is a great option, if you can afford the inflated dealer prices.

I would say it's a little on the high side, but not having seen the car it's tough to say.

It might be worth bargaining that the common failure points need to be addressed, unless they've already been performed.

RMS gasket replacement ($20 part)

IMS bearing retrofit ($400-800 part)

Air oil separator replacement ($150 part)

Water pump replacement ($250-300 part)

Cheers