Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20w-50

[westladog]

My oil change interval is usually around the 7k miles mark. Today, I went to a local autoparts store to get some Mobil 1 Synthetic but I saw the VR1 Racing oil for $3/qt.

I took a chance and bought it because it was so cheap compare to the Mobil 1. Since it said "racing oil", I'd figure it can't hurt because I'm not racing. Right?

Also, instead of synthetic, I just went with the conventional because my oil change interval is shorter than what Porche recommends anyway.....right? :)

Edited May 14, 2011 by westladog

[N41EF]

I think your logic is wrong on many labels. Just because it is "racing" oil it means nothing. Use a synthetic oil, change it every 5k to 7500 miles, and use an oil that is approproately rated. I prefer something ACEA rated A3/B3 or higher. Common oils that are available and typicaly on sale are:

Rotella Synthetic T 5w-40 Blue jug, Walmart

Mobile 1 5w-40 Turbo diesel truck oil.

Castrol Syntec 5w-40 or the edge.

Penzoil Ultra in 5w-30

LN Engineering and Flat 6 have some great info on why you should change your oil more often than the factory reccommends.

I buy whatever is on sale, but I prefer the 5w-40 oils since they have high temperature protection. Recently Advance had 5 quarts of Castrol with a K&N filter for $27, I get two of these "specials" and have an extra filter for next time.

[westladog]

Too late now... :)

It's already in the car.....I guess I'll switch back to synthetic 5k miles from now.

And it only costs me $10 for the nice guy to put the boxster on the lift and changed the oil for me!

$40 total for oil and labor! Yahoo!

Edited May 14, 2011 by westladog

[RFM]

20W-50 is much too thick in COLD conditions, 5W-50 is a better option and also available, but not approved, in Racing VR1 by Valvoline, if you like that brand. It is possible that the engine eventually is bothered by a 20W-50 oil on long term. Hope you can use the lift at the same price to do a engine replacement, false economy IMHO.

[westladog]

I live in California and it's summer now so the temperature will average in the 80's F. According to the manual, it recommends 15w-40, 20w-40, and 20w-50. I'm more concerned about the SL/SM API certification though because the manual says API SH.

I'm not to concerned though because I'll change it back to full synthetic in about 4000 miles but yes I agree that I did made a mistake. :)

[racerx169]

Valvoline VR1 20W50 is a very good oil. Especially for harsh racing conditions. I use it in my race motorcycle engines and on annual engine tear downs the cams, valve bucket areas which usually show signs if oil film break down (i.e. metal wear, marks, grooves) is very minimal and the top end is is great shape. As someone pointed out 20W50 is much thicker than the usual oil people put in their Porsches but I tend to see 10W40, 15W40, 15W50 in the 986 for 10 degrees C (or 50 degrees F) but if they spec 20W50 too then you should be okay. especially in warmer weather like say L.A. or the hot Sacramento summer days you have there. Just make sure to idle your car until it's warmed up before driving off. Almost no one does that. Usually people are in a hurry to drive off. Also part of the reason Valvoline's VR1 20W50 protects the cam/bucket area so well is elevated levels of zinc-phosphorus. This is much higher than any usual 5W40 or similar oil you can find legal in the US for street use. The regulators limit ZINC in 5W30 and 5W40 oils more than in 20W50. It's sounds odd as ZINC is an important metal-on-metal inhibitor but ZINC in the oil has a slight (and I mean slight) detrimental life expectancy effect on catalytic converts. This is why they limit it in the newer and more popular thinner oils newer vehicles tend to use. So while SH, SL/SM have different additive levels, additive levels greatly change between a identical manufacturer 10W40 and 20W50 oil. Generally the thicker higher performance oils have more ZINC. There are other benefits to fully-synthetics over conventional oils but in short don't kick yourself for putting VR1 20W50 in your Porsche. It has much higher zinc-phosphorus then any Mobil-1 and probably is better for your IMS bearing. (I've done oil analysis tests of the VR1 20W50 and Mobil-1 5W40) But honestly I would do more research before putting a new oil in my Porsche that deviates from the norm.... especially if you plan on owning it a long time!

Hope this helps.

Regards

Peter

In addition, I thought I would mention that you can sometimes get a hold of the engineers at the oil companies themselves especially if you contact them about their racing oils. They are very helpful and willing to explain how their different offerings vary and give recommendations for your specific needs. FWI, Valvoline also makes a synthetic VR1 too.

Edited May 22, 2011 by racerx169