Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted

I want to put S/S brake lines on MY2001 turbo coupe. I think it will add to the my pleasure but concerned I might have a "code" issue considering the brake sensors or whatever else. Havent ever got into brake work on this car before. Any thoughts?

Thank you

  • Moderators
Posted (edited)

We do this all the time for customers; no, you should not get any codes. Suggest working on one corner at a time, disconnecting the hard lines first (one at a time), and keeping a short length of plugged rubber hose on had to cap the hard line while you disconnect and replace the flexible line. Something a couple inches in length in the 1/4 ID range and suitable bolt to plug the other end will do fine. What the cap does eliminate the need to rush to prevent the rest of the fluid from draining out of the hard lines and allowing air into the ABS control system, which would require either the OEM PIWIS or a Durametric system to cycle the system while flushing the lines with fresh fluid.

Take your time and you will be fine. We have never had anyone comment negatively on the results of going to SS, just make sure they are top quality and DOT approved. You should also have a full set of metric fitting wrenches to prevent rounding off any fittings while you are doing the swap.

Edited by JFP in PA
Posted

Of course Steeve you need to do a complete bleeding of the brake system.....Very important! Sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF...

  • Moderators
Posted

thank you. It is in fact necessary to bleed brakes afterwards? do you have a brand name of S/S to purchase?

thanks again. Steve

Yes, you will need to bleed the brakes; this is good time to do a complete flush, which should be done every two years anyway.

We like, and use Goodridge lines; very well made and DOT compliant. Sold thru many outlets and online, including Tire Rack.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.