suspension

[WAYNER]

hi, just replace control arms in 03 to include wishbone,trailing arms, tracking arms, tie rods, and drop links. had it aligned. all units came in within spec. accept rt rear toe..0.71 degree (0.00degree-0.17 degree spc. range)

shop re-assured me that parts (vertex) and installation (done by me) where not damaged and installed correctly. his conclusion was that the "knuckle" assembly was damaged, out of whack, or bad was the problem. i am wondering if the tower assembly could be adjusted to correct the toe-in problem? any thoughts on the situation?

[ericinboca]

I had two problems with rear toe on my 986.

* the adjustment bolt was binding up, bent and not allowing proper travel in and out

* recentering the subframe

My problems were also on the right rear - passenger side.

Is your camber in the rear correct? I had to switch to adjustable length toe arms in the rear to be able to accommodate the amount of negative camber I wanted on the track. More camber pushed the rear out; the toe adjusting arm was not long enough, creating more toe in.

The hats at the top of the strut don't have any adjutment - it is just the bearing for the top of the strut.

[WAYNER]

CAMBER IS WITHIN RANGE -1.8 (-1.8 TO -O.8). SORRY TO HEAR THAT I CAN NOT ADJUST THE STRUT. WILL TAKE A LOOK AT THE BOLT SYSTEM. THX

[4agdtym]

I had similar problem a couple years back. I decided that the towers which support rear suspension were not sufficiently reinforced when I went to change the trans fluid and had difficulty removing the triangular plate to access the drain plug. I constructed a bar to ad stability to the towers and to hold them in the correct alignment - similar to the one offered by Pedro's Garage (also available on Pelican Parts) and the problem was corrected with the next alignment. Make sure you get the correct bar for your car - one for manual another for auto trans.

http://www.pelicanpa...r%2FBoxster%20S

Tomorrow I'm beginning the install of the ROW M030 suspension as well as replacement of all control arms, links and tie rods. I'm going to use the Tarret adjustable arms on the rear since lowering the car will limit camber/toe adjustments with stock toe adjust arm.

[WAYNER]

most positive reply to date, will investigate strut support and tarret. thx

[WAYNER]

ok, found my problem...it took a hit to the rear wheel. strange hit in that the impact was on the front (nearest the door) side of the wheel as evidenced by a indent on the diaginal support member and on the body high up under the fender weld. frame machine said 9mm out. frame guy says to much work to pull. adjustable toe rods are the answer.

i am planning on making my own adjustable rods. i plan to buy an AURORA HIMI ROD END, female counterclockwise 14mmX1.5, 14mm bore, a double headed L&R threaded dolt, and a std front outer tie rod end (14mmX1.5, clockwise.)

my challenge: to mill or buy bushing that will reduce the 14mm bore to 12mm and fit in the typical 43mm receiver in the main tower that the old arm fits in

to find a double L&R threaded 14mm bolt

any thoughts on my plan?

Edited May 15, 2011 by WAYNER