MAF Sensor part number

[stateofidleness]

Hey forum,

I've had nagging SAI codes and CEL's off and on for a year or so now.. just recently it started coming on much quicker in between CEL's (mainly 1133 and 1126). I normally clear the code with my code reader while the car is running without any problems. This morning; however, I cleared it with the car in ACC (not started). When I went to start it, it would barely start! Heard a single low "pop" and some surging of the rpms. I didn't hear the air pump kick on either (fwiw.. it runs normally on other startups). I turned the car off after a few seconds as all I could hear was cash registers... Turned it back on and it surged some more, but I gave it very little gas to smooth it out and then let off. It started running like "normal".

Now I figure because I cleared the ECU, the trims were crazy off and all that which is probably what caused the rough run condition when I restarted after the clear. I have 70k on the car ('00 base) and do not know if the MAF has ever been replaced.

I've read on a few forums about taking the oil cap off while it's running (although, admittedly, I didn't know what this would do or what it meant). I took the cap off and it sounded like a tornado lol... definitely a "suction" type sound. I quickly put the cap back on (sounded like the car wanted to die).

What should I tackle first? I'm changing the oil tomorrow and would like to order a new MAF (just to cross it off the list), but was a little unclear on the part numbers. Apparently there is a .125 revision that requires a dealership reflash of the ECU? Is this correct or can I just get the .125 and let it relearn on its own?

Note: I do have an existing exhaust leak (not sure where..) and I've had the AOS replaced within the last 5k miles. The CEL's preceeded both. The exhaust leak is gradually getting louder though.. a very noticeable "Ticking" which sounds like it's just in front of the driver's side wheel (can't tell if it's up high or underneath). I'm beginning to think a lift would pay for itself when you own a P-car :)

[Loren]

If you are going to use the .125 part on your (and your car currently has .124) then you will need your IPAS codes and a reflash of the Porsche DME program.

If your car already the .125 part then you are good to go.

[whall]

The "ticking" noise could be caused by a loose spark plug. While you're changing the oil you might check the security of the plugs.

+1 on the lift.......

Bill

[stateofidleness]

Today, while changing the oil, I confirmed the part number of the existing MAF to end in 125.000 which I believe to be revision 1 of the sensor. I'm gonna order a new one tomorrow.

I still hear the ticking sound though, which I thought to be my lifters (hence the oil change today to a heavier weight oil). Almost no change... Spark plugs were changed about 1k miles ago and are secure. Anything else I can check? Visually, I can't find anything and touching all the hoses up top doesn't effect the sound or idle. From underneath (while running), I can hear the exhaust leak, but still can't pinpoint it. It sounds more pronounced on the driver's side. I guess the only way to know is to get it professionally smoke tested.