soft top stuck down clamshell wont open

[highclassauto]

Hi all! love the forum so far so here goes i recently picked up a 97 boxster which i couldn't not buy its almost summer i needed another convi.. well i knew the top didn't work but i could just pull the hard top off and was good to go.. today i decided to try my hand at figuring out why she wouldn't go up.. well there is some signs she is completly how you say @$%#&*... so how do i remove the clamshell so i can then remove the top and get a new one installed it is nice to have a working soft one just incase it rains while i'm out hammering the corners.. i looked in dyi sections ect. but i can't even getit to service mode.. hand brake up push the button all i hear is a click from rear middle of the clam...thanks in advance

[1schoir]

Hi all! love the forum so far so here goes i recently picked up a 97 boxster which i couldn't not buy its almost summer i needed another convi.. well i knew the top didn't work but i could just pull the hard top off and was good to go.. today i decided to try my hand at figuring out why she wouldn't go up.. well there is some signs she is completly how you say @$%#&*... so how do i remove the clamshell so i can then remove the top and get a new one installed it is nice to have a working soft one just incase it rains while i'm out hammering the corners.. i looked in dyi sections ect. but i can't even getit to service mode.. hand brake up push the button all i hear is a click from rear middle of the clam...thanks in advance

It is rarely the convertible top frame assembly and canvas that need replacing (except for the vinyl window). Almost every time it is one or more of the other components, such as the double relay, the B-pillar microswitch, the black lever microswitch, either one or both transmissions (since yours is an "A Version" transmission Boxster), the drive cables, one of two fuses, one of two microswitches in the latch assembly, a dead spot on the electric motor, the emergency brake microswitch and idiot light on the dash, etc, etc...

If you car had a hardtop on it, the canvas top and frame assembly should still be there, tucked under the clamshell.

When you press the button, are you sure the clicking is coming from the center, under the clamshell, or is the noise coming from one or both sides, where the transmissions are located?

If it is coming from the middle of the clamshell, it is probably a case of your drive cables' outer sheath(s) having stretched, and thus not allowing the inner speedometer-type cable to be driven. That is turn will prevent the transmission on that side (or both sides) from rotating the V-levers.

Need a little more detailed description.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited April 5, 2011 by 1schoir

[highclassauto]

click is def. from the center i know about streched cables ect.. but i was more wondering how to open the clamshell up.. to asses what else has gone bad... if i look down behind the plastic trim behind the seat i see a ball thats not attached.. also see signes of improper wearing on the tracks.. the rear window is not in at all this i can see where it was all folded up.. anyways if i could get the clam shell off than take a better look at the whole picture .. like i said for the days i plan on driving it will be hard top or no top but just incase it would be nice to throw the softie up gotta love new england weather can be raining here two min down the road dry and sunny

[1schoir]

click is def. from the center i know about streched cables ect.. but i was more wondering how to open the clamshell up.. to asses what else has gone bad... if i look down behind the plastic trim behind the seat i see a ball thats not attached.. also see signes of improper wearing on the tracks.. the rear window is not in at all this i can see where it was all folded up.. anyways if i could get the clam shell off than take a better look at the whole picture .. like i said for the days i plan on driving it will be hard top or no top but just incase it would be nice to throw the softie up gotta love new england weather can be raining here two min down the road dry and sunny

You have to release the clamshell by either popping off the little clips at the rear of the "hydraulic" pushrods or pop them off their steel ball at the front of the hydraulic pushrod. That will allow you to move the clamshell manually. The only problem is that it's very difficult to access those when the clamshell is completely closed tight.One way that I have been able to gain access is by unbolting the 19mm bolt that holds the V-lever in position against the transmission on each side of the car. It's tough to get a socket in there, but if you use an offset box-end wrench you can do it. Be careful, though because the V-lever is under pressure, as it is being pulled REALLY tight by the "hydraulic" pushrod when it's in that position (all the way closed).You want to be able to pull the black cables out from the sides of the electric motor so that you can spin the cables with a cordless drill (on the lowest torque setting) until the half-moon gear becomes engaged again. Make sure that you spin them an equal amount so that the clamshell and the canvas top go up and down in an even manner, left side to right side.Note that the 19mm bolts are on there with loctite, so they will seem very tight.Here are two photos that show you what the 19mm bolt looks like, and its location, along with the inside of the "A Version" transmission showing the half-moon gear. That will give you an idea of what you are doing when you are spinning the cables with the cordless drill.In the first photo, you can see the 19mm bolt in the middle of the V-lever. When you stand beside the car, just to the rear of the door, and you look straight down, in between the forward part of the clamshell and the folded down B-Pillar, you will see the top surface of the V-lever.Here is a photo of a Sears offset 19mm wrench that works well in this instance:NOTE: BE CAREFUL to take note of the position of the V-lever on the transmission male key so that you can re-install it the same way. There is a key on the back, so it can be installed the correct way and 180 degrees off. So again, take careful note of the position of the V-lever so you don't reinstall it upside down.Regards, Maurice.

[highclassauto]

hey thanks for the info i'll try it out but i was out today and some ladie cut me off so i went for the horn and it feels like the airbag is missing so if it is i'm going back to the guy and he can have it back... its a nice looker.. but is turning out to be too much of a hassle oh and the ce light came on for o2 and 2nd air faluntions.. guess it might have been too good a deal still runs strong lots of fun but now i'm a bit scared of what else i'll find if i keep looking.. all good thou. still have a few weeks before the weather will break anyways. should have kept the SL500.

[NISTISHIN]

Hi 2000 Boxster top is suddenly stuck in down position. I see I can manually get the top back up from the owners manual.

What occured was the "red" light would not go off when the top was completely in stored/down position for a couple days. Then it happened...top went down & would not go back up. When it trys to go up only some movement from driver side occurs. The passenger dosen't move & then the motor cuts out. Does this seem like the passenger side cable or transmission issue? Or do you think the micro switch is the problem (since the light on dash would not go out when completely stored)? Your thoughts are appreciated.

When i get in there to look at the mechanics of the top what should i be checking for?

[1schoir]

If your drive cables are the cross-hatched variety (as opposed to smooth-sided), then it is more unlikely that the drive cable is the problem.

That, combined with the fact that your dash light will not go out may indicate a problem with one of the two sensors INSIDE the driver's side transmission, or with some other damage to the small plastic gear in there.

Here is a photo of the cross-hatched cable that is less prone to stretching. The stretching causes the inner metal cable to appear to "retract" inside the black vinyl outer sheath and that in turn causes the inner metal cable to no longer be engaged in the output flange on that side of the electric motor. When that happens, the electric motor does not turn the metal cable and the transmission does not turn the V-lever on that side.

To try to narrow down the problem, pull the cable outboard from the side of the electric motor (after pulling off the upside down U-clip and take a look at how much of the inner metal cable is sticking out. It it's less than 1/2 inch that is the problem and you have to rectify that problem to continue with your diagnosis.

If the cable is sticking out 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch, (and there are no dead-spots on the electric motor) the problem is with the transmission on that side.

Regards, Maurice.

[ybn533]

Hi,

I'm new too here :)

Having problem with my roof. I searched the forum and did the basic checks.

Relay, hand brake sensor, fuses, windows coming down(sensor fine)

Checked all connections and nothing seems broken.

The seems to "work hard". stuck on the up, stuck on the way down. not closing till the end. the dash light stays on.

here is a link to a video I made: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xWg8FllE7U

A few pics too:

my car is a 2000 boxster s,

can you help me with some light what to look at?

[1schoir]

Boker Tov! :welcome:

From the clicking noises and the straining of the electric motor on your video, it sounds like the gears inside at least one of the transmissions may be getting overloaded and thus skipping. That usually only happens when there is great resistance on the system's operation.

Your third photo shows a number of possible causes:

The red arrow on the left pointing to the channel shows that it is completely dry and with no lubrication. That will cause a lot of resistance and should be remedied. You can apply some white lithium grease in that channel and around the black plastic sliders that ride back and forth in that channel.

The red arrow at the rear shows that the front pushrod (with the red ball cup) may be bent more than the original design. The photo is not that clear so you should compare that one with the one on the driver's side to make sure it is not bent out of shape.

The green circle shows an area that looks like something is rubbing against it and the green arrow shows the edge of what may be rubbing against it. If that's the case, check to see if anything is rubbing and rectify that. It may be causing the lip of the sheet metal that normally sits over the V-lever's plastic protective cover to get caught and released repeatedly, thereby causing the resistance and the clicks that you hear when the electric motor is struggling.

To take the possible problem with the transmission gear(s) out of the loop, I would disconnect the front and the rear pushrods on both sides and try to operate the convertible cop by pulling and pushing on the leading edge of the top through the open and close cycle. If it's working properly, you should be able to move the top with just your pinky. In other words, very smooth and with no resistance. That will reveal if the top is getting hung up on anything. Do this after you have lubricated the channels as pointed out above.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited October 30, 2013 by 1schoir

[ybn533]

Boker Tov! :welcome:

From the clicking noises and the straining of the electric motor on your video, it sounds like the gears inside at least one of the transmissions may be getting overloaded and thus skipping. That usually only happens when there is great resistance on the system's operation.

Your third photo shows a number of possible causes:

Convertible Top Problem Israel arrows.jpg

The red arrow on the left pointing to the channel shows that it is completely dry and with no lubrication. That will cause a lot of resistance and should be remedied. You can apply some white lithium grease in that channel and around the black plastic sliders that ride back and forth in that channel.

The red arrow at the rear shows that the front pushrod (with the red ball cup) may be bent more than the original design. The photo is not that clear so you should compare that one with the one on the driver's side to make sure it is not bent out of shape.

The green circle shows an area that looks like something is rubbing against it and the green arrow shows the edge of what may be rubbing against it. If that's the case, check to see if anything is rubbing and rectify that. It may be causing the lip of the sheet metal that normally sits over the V-lever's plastic protective cover to get caught and released repeatedly, thereby causing the resistance and the clicks that you hear when the electric motor is struggling.

To take the possible problem with the transmission gear(s) out of the loop, I would disconnect the front and the rear pushrods on both sides and try to operate the convertible cop by pulling and pushing on the leading edge of the top through the open and close cycle. If it's working properly, you should be able to move the top with just your pinky. In other words, very smooth and with no resistance. That will reveal if the top is getting hung up on anything. Do this after you have lubricated the channels as pointed out above.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice :)

I'm going to do it and report back.

Btw, here it's almost good night :)

[ybn533]

Now I can't even open the clamshell :(

I'll try using my son to press the button and I'll try to assist the clamshell to open.

[ybn533]

Ok. when I press "open" I can hear the engine moving for a second and stop. when I press "close" it moves for a second too. sound like something not letting the engine move. Any idea what to do now?

[1schoir]

If the clamshell is closed down tight over the stowed convertible top and it won't move, your only option is to unbolt the V-levers by means of an offset 19mm box-end wrench. Once you remove the 19mm bolt on each side (in the center of the V-Lever), you will be able to access "the works". See post #4 for some photos and more details on the procedure.

In the meantime, see if you can identify the type of convertible top double relay that is in your car as that will tell us whether you have an "A Version" transmission and set up or the later "B Version". The "A Version" will have a small black triangle on its top exposed surface and the "B Version" will have a small black square there.

Regards, Maurice.

[ybn533]

Crazy! This morning I said to my self, lets give it another try. asked my sun to press the button while I'm helping the clamshell to go up. guess what?! it worked and I opened the clamshell to the "service mode", now it's stuck there.

i told my son that he has the "cosmic touch" :)

here some more pictures:

Today I'll will lubricate everything and release the roof to move it by hand and check if something is on the way.

Thanks,

Yaron

[1schoir]

Yaron:

You definitely have the "B Version" transmissions and set up, as evidenced by the small black square on your double relay.

The intermittent operation may be caused by some corrosion on the double relay male and female spades. Use some fine emery cloth to clean the male spades on the double relay and then you can insert a thin, small screwdriver wrapped in a small piece of emery cloth to insert it into the female spades on the relay tray to clean everything up in there. Also, rap the double relay a couple of times on a hard surface to help "unstick" any of the contacts inside.

The third photo also shows that there is no lubricant in the driver's side guide channel, so make sure that you lube that as well.

The second photo also shows that there is some rubbing on the black vinyl protective cover under the V-lever at the area inside the red oval, here:

Definitely observe that passenger side V-lever through its complete rotation to determine what is rubbing, both there and above that area, as pointed out in the earlier post.

Regards, Maurice.

[ybn533]

Hi Maurice,

I think that I found the problem (look at the pictures) :)

1. what can cause this?

2. can I get this part alone or do I have to buy the all transmission?

3. Can I find a used trans or to buy the big $ new one? this is the one - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-986-Transmission-for-Convertible-Top-RIGHT-NEW-GENUINE-Warranty-/370911406991?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ABoxster&hash=item565c0aeb8f&vxp=mtr&autorefresh=true? or this used one http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-01-02-03-04-PORSCHE-BOXSTER-CONVERTIBLE-TOP-TRANSMISSION-RIGHT-986-561-180-03-/151141116020?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2330b66874&vxp=mtr

Thanks

Yaron

Edited November 1, 2013 by ybn533

[1schoir]

Hi Maurice,

I think that I found the problem (look at the pictures) :)

1. what can cause this?

2. can I get this part alone or do I have to buy the all transmission?

3. Can I find a used trans or to buy the big $ new one? this is the one - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-986-Transmission-for-Convertible-Top-RIGHT-NEW-GENUINE-Warranty-/370911406991?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ABoxster&hash=item565c0aeb8f&vxp=mtr&autorefresh=true? or this used one http://www.ebay.com/itm/00-01-02-03-04-PORSCHE-BOXSTER-CONVERTIBLE-TOP-TRANSMISSION-RIGHT-986-561-180-03-/151141116020?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2330b66874&vxp=mtr

IMG_6831.JPGIMG_6830.JPGIMG_6829.JPG

Thanks

Yaron

1. This is caused by too much resistance in the convertible top frame mechanism. If it binds or rubs on something, the increased resistance will break the plastic gear. Your original video demonstrating the operation clearly had the periodic ticking sound, which indicated a skipping gear.

2. Porsche does not sell the parts inside the transmissions individually.

3. A used transmission is just as good, as long as there are no broken parts inside. Make sure that you get one of the "B Version" transmissions, which were installed by the factory in most 2000's, and all 2001 to 2004's. The "A Version" transmissions also look different externally from the B Version. See post #4 in this thread for a photo of the A Version transmission (it's showing the inside of the transmission but you can get an idea of the different shape of the outside from the photo). The used one in your link shows the correct years but there is no photo of the transmission to confirm. Also, although the text of the ad states that it is a right side transmission, the photo only shows the V-lever and associated parts.

Make sure that you correct the binding in the operation before you install the replacement transmission. As I said, with all of the pushrods disconnected you should be able to move the convertible top through its open and close cycle with your pinky.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited November 1, 2013 by 1schoir

[ybn533]

Hi,

I checked the roof. I disconnected the pushrods and it's moving clear. don't see any problem there or in the movement of the clamshell.

I lubricated everything you said anyway. I'll order a new one and report back.

Thanks for your kind help. really appreciate it! :)

Thanks

Yaron

[san rensho]

The right side transmission on my car has the dreaded cracked plastic gear, so I guess I have to bite the bullet and get a used transmission.

The left side transmission has a cracked gear but it doesn't go all the way through, the crack goes to almost the outer diameter of the gear, just a few mm before the gear teeth. I drilled a small hole at the end of each crack, so hopefully it wont go any further. Is this going to work?

[1schoir]

The right side transmission on my car has the dreaded cracked plastic gear, so I guess I have to bite the bullet and get a used transmission.

The left side transmission has a cracked gear but it doesn't go all the way through, the crack goes to almost the outer diameter of the gear, just a few mm before the gear teeth. I drilled a small hole at the end of each crack, so hopefully it wont go any further. Is this going to work?

Drilling the small hole may delay the further cracking of the plastic gear but it's almost sure to eventually fail, sooner than later. You may be able to prolong the inevitable by using a two-part epoxy putty product called "Marine-Tex" http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=Marine%20Tex) It can make patches that are stronger than metal and that have excellent adhesion to the part being repaired. The only difficulty there would be molding the Marine Tex so that the resulting patch does not interfere with the rest of the mechanical gears or the housing.

The Marine Tex cures super hard and super strong so you may even be able to repair the gear in your right side transmission because you can mold it and shape it to the desired contour.

The gears suffer a lot of wear and tear with the operation of the mechanism and the reinforcement with the epoxy putty may help you in this instance.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited January 8, 2014 by 1schoir

[thesign777]

Sorry to bring up a dead thread, but I've been reading threads, DIY's and watching Youtube videos for two days and I still can't get my top working. I feel a bit dense, because I can't even get the top in service mode position even though I feel like I'm following the manual's instructions properly.

Here's the situation:
1999 Boxster. I've owned it for 3 weeks. Top was working fine. Parked in the garage for 5 days with the top open and now it won't go back up (close). It is an aftermarket top with the glass window. Previous owner had it replaced.

Parking brake light is on.
convertible light stays on
Windows drop 2" (if I push the latch release switch and then let go)

I've checked the fuses, they look good

I pulled out the relay and tapped it a few times and reinserted and removed it a few more times

If I push the convertible switch on the dash I hear a click type noise in the back and the dash lights dim for a second.

The only thing I notice is one small pin missing on the passenger side (https://www.design911.co.uk/mobile/#part;id=127975) Other than that the red rods look fine, no cracks or anything.

I'm trying to use the tool to pry the black push rods, but they don't budge. I'm using quite a bit of force too. I'm afraid I'll damage/bend the guide arm or clamshell if I try much more force.

I know this topic has been discussed a lot everywhere. I've searched and I've read a lot. Hoping one of you kind and knowledgeable folks can help.
Thanks
Jimmy

Edited June 8, 2016 by thesign777

[thesign777]

An you can see the top is completely open.  I just need help getting it into service mode.  I have tried using the tool to pry off the black push rods, but they don't move a millimeter. 

 

Thanks

Jimmy

 

 

 

Edited June 9, 2016 by thesign777

[GothicSerpent]

I have the opposite problem. I need to get it into service mode (2001) and the open/close button doesn't work although 1) the light on the dash shows it on all the time; 2) I can hear something in the back trying to engage with zero activity. My dilemma is that i need to replace the water pump but can't get the top down to get to the engine compartment. I know nothing about Porsche.

 

Thanks in advance!

[wizard]

Access to the waterpump is gained from underneath the car and through the engine cover plate which is located behind the carpet behind the seats.

From memory, you don't need the top in the service position for that purpose.