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Recommended Posts

Posted

Have a 2000 C4 Cab. Searched and read topics on this issue - Opening Driver Door, window starts to come down but not enough to clear the top (maybe 1/4"). I can manually push it down the extra 1/4" and reclose door and window will move up automatically for a tight fit. I used the forum and did the test of raising the window to top and trying to push down and it was firm. So I'm thinking its the window regulator (please confirm diagnosis). My secondary question I didn't see answered is the cost/part number. Is this really the $250'ish part that needs replacing - noticed it comes without motor. Do I need a new motor too? (seems to be working fine). re: part number - can't seem to find one for a 2000 (found 2002)?

Thanks

Posted (edited)

Have a 2000 C4 Cab. Searched and read topics on this issue - Opening Driver Door, window starts to come down but not enough to clear the top (maybe 1/4"). I can manually push it down the extra 1/4" and reclose door and window will move up automatically for a tight fit. I used the forum and did the test of raising the window to top and trying to push down and it was firm. So I'm thinking its the window regulator (please confirm diagnosis). My secondary question I didn't see answered is the cost/part number. Is this really the $250'ish part that needs replacing - noticed it comes without motor. Do I need a new motor too? (seems to be working fine). re: part number - can't seem to find one for a 2000 (found 2002)?

Thanks

gmorris:

The most likely cause of the "slack" that you found by being able to press the window down the additional 1/4 inch that you described is a worn, frayed, or stretched cable in the window regulator assembly, or wear/ crack in one of the plastic parts through which the cable runs. Because of the extra slack, the window does not retract the full normal distance of 13mm (1/2 inch).

To diagnose it more definitively, observe the window closely (i.e., listen intently) when it drops down upon pulling on the door handle...if you hear the electric motor engaging a split second before you see any movement, that will mean that there is slack (which must be taken up before there is movement). You can compare it with the action on the passenger door so that you can see what the normal condition looks (and sounds) like. If your passenger door regulator is intact, the window should start to move at the exact same time as you hear the electric motor engage.

The part number for the window regulator is 996.542.075.04, and it does cost around $200. Check with board sponsor Sunset for a decent price.

I think that the listing that you may be looking at shows the part as "-02", which means "up to 2002", i.e., not just 2002.

The electric motor is a separate part, but these motors are not known to frequently fail. It is almost always the regulator that fails.

Also, be aware that the part for the window regulator is the same for Boxsters and 911's, but that you must adjust a small insert at the bottom of the forward leg of the regulator to make sure that the window goes down to the right level depending on your model. That small issue is dealt with and illustrated in another thread. If I find it first, I'll post a link to it.

Regards, Maurice.

Update: Here is the link for removing the door panel of a 996: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/tutorials/article/31-door-panel-removal-install-instructions/

Here is the link that deals with the correct bump stop position for a 996: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/16646-window-bump-stops/page__hl__regulator

Edited by 1schoir
Posted

agree, I did find one out there for a ~$100.00 after some searching. Btw, I found that bicycle tire levers work well for popping off the door panel.

Best of luck

Posted

Sounds like a window regulator to me too. You can use your existing window motor. It's a fairly easy DIY, the hardest part is removing the interior door panel without damaging any of the little plastic clips that hold the various pieces in place.

Good luck!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I just replaced the regulator on the driver side. New issue now. The window doesn't close all the way, as in that last 1/4" when the door closes or opens. Also, and I assume associated with this the interior door lights don't turn off and I can't lock the car with the fob. What the heck did I do?

Posted

I just replaced the regulator on the driver side. New issue now. The window doesn't close all the way, as in that last 1/4" when the door closes or opens. Also, and I assume associated with this the interior door lights don't turn off and I can't lock the car with the fob. What the heck did I do?

Deckman:

The interior door lights and the locking the car with the fob may have to do with the lock assembly, so you may have inadvertently disconnected one of the wires to it.

For the window not closing all the way, if it's unrelated to the door lock assembly, try first to "retrain" the window, following the procedure in the owner's manual. Press the up button until it's closed all the way, then press the UP button again and hold it for 5 seconds. Do the same for the completely open position and see if that fixes the problem.

If not, you will have to check the lock assembly and must remove the door panel again.

Regards, Maurice.

Posted

Thanks Maurice. I tried to retrain the window and no help. I'll have to take it back apart. Which plug is associated with the lock assembly?

Posted

I fixed it. Underneath the inside door handle is a microswitch that opens and closes when the door does the same. The tiny little plunger for the switch isn't fully integrated and somehow popped out when I was taking the door panel off. Luckily I found it on the ground and put it in a container, not knowing what it was. After some research I knew I was having a problem with a switch and that piece came to mind. I was able to pop it back in place with some tweezers and that took care of everything. All's well that ends well.

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