Accusump Installed this weekend

[Byron in Atlanta]

It was a pretty straightforward install. The hardest part was the plumbing of the line. I DO NOT LIKE BRAIDED STEEL HOSE!!! Looks good but a ***** to work with. I noticed that some folks did a connector at the firewall but I just drilled a hole through the firewall and ran the hose through a grommet. I wired the electric switch into the rear wiring harness in the trunk and mounted the toggle switch in the trunk as well. I used the sandwich adapter and spin-on filter adapters from LN. They were really simple and seem like a good solution to me. The trade off is the much smaller filter, but I am going to buy them in bulk and change frequently. I also went with the LN oil pan extension and their magnetic drain plug. If this SOB blows up again, it won't be for lack of oil!!!

[harryrcb]

nice work, the line through the rubber plug should work OK, I'm not sure that having the swith in the trunk is a good idea. really not sure, just seems like it should be in hand when turning off the ignition. what happened to your motor? and when did it quit on you?

[Byron in Atlanta]

nice work, the line through the rubber plug should work OK, I'm not sure that having the swith in the trunk is a good idea. really not sure, just seems like it should be in hand when turning off the ignition. what happened to your motor? and when did it quit on you?

Since I went with the electric valve option, you just leave the unit in the "on" position constantly. It is on a circuit that powers up with the ignition to pre-oil the engine and then refills as the oil pressure in the engine rises. As I understood it, there is no reason not to have the unit energized except to service it or the car. I thought it through and it just seemed to make sense, but I could be wrong! (invitation to flame!) :lol:

[harryrcb]

Since I went with the electric valve option, you just leave the unit in the "on" position constantly. It is on a circuit that powers up with the ignition to pre-oil the engine and then refills as the oil pressure in the engine rises. As I understood it, there is no reason not to have the unit energized except to service it or the car. I thought it through and it just seemed to make sense, but I could be wrong! (invitation to flame!) :lol:

Here is what ln engineering says. I think if I allready lost and engine to oil starvation I would be tempted to use a manual valve. but you were correct in your setup. I was wrong :notworthy:

The Electric Pressure Control Valve we use is for a discharge/refill of 35-40 PSI. These valves have the convenience of an electric valve for remote mounted units on daily drivers but with the rapid refill rate of a manual valve as required in racing. The E.P.C. valving will only allow the Accusump to discharge oil when the engine's oil pressure drops below a predetermined level and only refill when the pressure rises above that level. For a dedicated track car or for best performance, a manual valve is recommended, but isn't as clean and streamlined as the E.P.C. valving for a street setup. With the electronic valve, you don't know it's working as it's supposed to be seamless – but I'd recommend addition of a shift light or some other indicator to tell you that the accusump is actually actuating. We suggest adding a toggle to have a "valet" mode so that you can turn the accusump off, as we normally recommend wiring the E.P.C. valve to actuate at key-on. Alternatively, you can relay it so that it only is operating when the fuel pump is going, negating the need for a "valet" mode. Alternatively, a manual valve is the sure fire way to know the system is working. You start the engine, switch the manual valve, drive, then shut off the valve prior to turning the engine off.