Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted

Folks,

I've been nursing the cats on my baby (2000 996 w/Trip and 105k miles) for the six months or so. I've been getting errors PO0420 and PO430 more and more regularly over this period. It's pretty much to the point now where I get them as soon as the car has been driven enough to fail the self-testing. Sadly there have been no other errors along with these (that might point to a less expensive fix). I have a PSTII, so I've been able to really monitor things.

Do, I'm looking at replacing the Cats. As I am outside the extended warranty window, my first move was to check pricing on the OEM Cats. Naturally, I am agast at the price of these critters. And I need two of them....

During my research, I came across a company based out of Chicago, SmithCat. They rebuild Cats. I have spoken with them at length. The process is: you send them your Cats, they cut them open, clean them in a dip, stick in a new cartridge, weld it back up (using stainless weld), and test it. 2 year warranty. $519 for each Cat.

My question: anyone heard of these folks, have experience with them?

The price seems reasonable, so this isn't a price question. Simply put: I am seeking any references on these folks.

Here is their site:

http://www.smithcat.com/index.htm

Thanks,

Glenn

Posted

Given how cheaply you can find low mileage cats from dismantled cars, that strikes me as a much simpler option. Call Oklahoma Foreign and talk to Gary.

Posted

Yeah, I did that last night. $350 for the pair. Warrantied not to throw the errors. So, I pulled the trigger. We'll see. Thx, GA

Posted

Good job. I would also would have checked around local race

shops. I know for a fact that TRG Racing has a bunch of

stock 997 cats sitting on a pallet on a rack.

Paul

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I got the Cats in from Oklahoma Foreign on Friday. Was too busy this weekend but was able to put them in today. After extensive test drives a review of my PSTII outputs indicate that Readiness status is perfect and no errors in evidence. I'll continue to monitor. A couple of notes:

1. Oklahoma sent me a very nice looking set of Cats. Very clean. Even the bracket and cuffs were included but, most importantly, the studs facing the headers were in great shape. All I needed to do was pop over to my local auto shop and purchase new flange nuts (M8 x 1.25) and was good to go. (btw, even if the nuts were included, I would have replaced them.) all in all, I'm very pleased with my purchase from Oklahoma.

2. I found the job to be very straightforward. I believe you'll find it to be a 2-3 hour leasurely job. I didn't bother to put the car on my lift. Nor even raise it with a jack. I had great access to the Cats by removing the bumper and heat shield panels on the rear and sides. You'll also need to remove the air filter cannister so you can disconnect the sensor cables.

btw, I removed the Cats without removing the mufflers but this made the nuts on the Cat/header connection flange a little trickly to access. I found that using a 6 point socket for a sure grip, a u-joint to get the right angle, and appropriate sized extensions did the trick.

The one tool I found very handy was a crowfoot type socket that I had picked up in anticipation of just replacing the sensors from my local Snap on tool man. Possibly I could have done the job without it but it made loosening the sensors very easy. The socket type/part number is SWR2.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=74621&PartNo=SWR2&group_id=1448&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

GA

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.