Oil filler tube/hose replacement Boxster 00

[59caddy]

I want to replace the oil filler hose as i see it is leaking oil by the clamp area by the`engine. Is it possible to do this with out any special tools to remove and install the hose clamps. Does anyone have any instructions on how to do it?

Thank you for any help.

[kbrandsma]

Here are a couple of links that might help.

The first link is from this Board on Renntech - Click Here

The second is from another Board - Click Here

[59caddy]

Here are a couple of links that might help.

The first link is from this Board on Renntech - Click Here

The second is from another Board - Click Here

Thanks for your help. I got the code 1128/1130 and we cleaned the MAF and noticed this oil leak. The car only has 20K and mostly sits in the gargage. Thats what you get when you have kids. Anyhow, the info from the other forum was good esp the tool tip. I understand that there was a TSB 12/00 about this part (haven't read it though) and Porsche upgraded it with a new part. We'll try to replace it and will post again. Thanks again for your help.

[kbrandsma]

You should also check your "J" tube for signs of oil entering the throttle body to determine AOS failure. You can also check for white smoke at start-up.

The oil filler tube leaks can also be a sign of the oil separator failure or maybe going out. When the AOS starts to fail it sucks the oil filler tube(s) almost flat. That closing/opening eventually can cause a hole in the filler tube. It did in my case.

Good luck!

[Dale_K]

My car threw the 1126 code this week and I just finished trying to identify a vacuum leak. I'm almost positive it's the oil fill tube. Tell me what you think - I can hear a little hissing/sucking sound at the center top of the engine and when I move around the rear of the oil fill tube the sound gets much louder and the motor starts running a little rough. Mostly this happens if I press down on the tube where it begins to dissapear under the intake system. I'm trying to decide whether I can tackle this myself, kind of like the OP.

[1schoir]

My car threw the 1126 code this week and I just finished trying to identify a vacuum leak. I'm almost positive it's the oil fill tube. Tell me what you think - I can hear a little hissing/sucking sound at the center top of the engine and when I move around the rear of the oil fill tube the sound gets much louder and the motor starts running a little rough. Mostly this happens if I press down on the tube where it begins to dissapear under the intake system. I'm trying to decide whether I can tackle this myself, kind of like the OP.

Dale:

The fact that you are getting a change in the idle when you move around the oil fill tube (after getting an 1126 code), is a good indication that there is a leak in that area.

You can further confirm it by spraying some carb cleaner (Gumout) at the joint and seeing if the idle rises. That will indicate that the extra "fuel" is getting sucked in by the vacuum leak and will help you pinpoint the source of the leak.

BE VERY CAREFUL with the carb cleaner as it is flammable!

Regards, Maurice.

[Dale_K]

Thanks for the info. I'm a little apprehensive about my mechanical ability looking at the restricted work space accessing the ends of the tube. But at least I've found a leak and I think I'm on the right track.

[BoxsterTaff]

Dale - I did just what you are considering over the past weekend, I tooo have a leak somewhere, so last weekend i took the intake tube (between the intake plenums) and throttle body off for a good clean, and also changed out my AOS. While I was in there the oil filler tube seemed loose. As stated above, its in 3 parts, 1st from the filler cap to the void (between the trunk and the visible engine bay), 2nd a mid section that ends with a hose clamp located roughly under the J tube from the AOS to the intake, and the third from that joint into the top of the engine case. Turned out only one of the two bolts (T10) that secure the filler tube to the engine case were in place on mine. One thing to note, if you plan to take the oil filler tube out of the engine block, one of the bolts (the missing) one is obstructed by the the alternator (or starter motor, can't recall now) - to 'replace' the missing bolt i cut a slot in the locating tab so i could slip it over the bolt (and washer), I was then able to tighten it from the engine bay with a long extension on the rachet. Its a little tight in there, but not too bad.

[Dale_K]

Thanks for the info. Were you able to do all this work without completely removing the intake manifold(s)? In other words, I should take off the throttle body and then the main tube through the center that connects the two halves? Can you get to the front part that way, or do you need to take the service panel off behind the seats?

My hat's off to you for replacing the AOS. I looked at that after jacking up the car and couldn't believe how anybody could reach the bolts and lower bellows clamp. The pictures in the 101 projects book make it look like the parts are right in front of you. It looks like you need to be a double jointed 6 year old to get your hands back there.

[BoxsterTaff]

Dale - i did not remove the intake plenums, just the connecting intake tube and rubber gaskets - be-sure to replace the two small vacuum hoses on the cabin side of these! I didn't spot them at first. Like I said the one bolt is obscured by the alternator - i got around thi by starting the bolt in the engine block thread before i put the oil filler tube back in, then with a small slot cut in the lug on the filler tube, slipped it over the bolt - I am not sure if removing the inspection panel would help, may do, or you may need to pull the alternator.

AOS was a PITA but worth it. I changed the spring loaded hose clamp for a screw typ on the bottom of the bellows, much easier. if you clean off the metal to which the bellows mates, smeer a little engine oil on it, the bellows literaly should slip on by itself....did for me anyway. I took a camera to check that it was seated flush then tightend it up. The bolts to hold the AOS in place are a little tight to get to, and as you said you can't really see them! I lay on my back, head behind the wheel assembly, put a couple of flaslights around to light up the area.

Two pics attached, one is the best shot i have of the oil tube with the central intake tube removed, other is the bellows on the new AOS.....andd the oil gunk from the last one leaking! Need to clean that up!

[kbrandsma]

I replaced all three of my oil filler tubes. Even with the tranny removed (RMS Replacement) you can only get the first tube from the top. I removed the air tube that goes from the airbox near the MAF and the throttle body

Here is a shot of the new tube leaving the rear trunk firewall. Noticed I reused the spring clip. I could not get a tool in there to use a worm clamp. The Sears clamp tool work great.

Here are a couple of photos taken from down below. The first photo is with the hose removed and the 2nd photo is with the new hose installed.

Here is a photo from the top side of a Boxster S. The RED A points toward the filler tube and the BLUE B marks the J tube. I would recommend replacing the J Tube at the same time replacing the AOS.

It is also a good idea to clean your air tubes and the throttle body itself while everything is removed. If you remove the harness from the idle control valve (ICV) and remove the valve from the throttle body be careful not to damage or lose the gasket. You will need that gasket on reinstallation.

BoxsterTaff is right about finding the vacuum hoses that are inserted in each side of rubber sleeves that connects the center tube to the intake manifolds. Also, his trick of starting the passenger side bolt on the third tube is ingenious and then nipping out a section of the ear so that it can slide under. That alone will save you a ton of time. I used a magnetic pickup tool to work the bolt in place and then using a free hand to get the bolt started and then finally a socket with a swivel extension. It's tough because you can't get a socket perfectly on top of it.

Edited March 5, 2011 by kbrandsma

[kbrandsma]

I replaced all three of my oil filler tubes. Even with the tranny removed (RMS Replacement) you can only get the first tube from the top. To get more room between the engine and the rear firewall, I removed the air tube that goes from the airbox near the MAF and the throttle body.

Here is a shot of the new tube leaving the rear trunk firewall. Noticed I reused the spring clip. I could not get a tool in there to use a worm clamp. The Sears clamp tool work great.

Here are a couple of photos taken from down below. The first photo is with the hose removed and the 2nd photo is with the new hose installed.

Here is a photo from the top side of a Boxster S. The RED A points toward the filler tube and the BLUE B marks the J tube. I would recommend replacing the J Tube at the same time replacing the AOS.

It is also a good idea to clean your air tubes and the throttle body itself while everything is removed. If you remove the harness from the idle control valve (ICV) and remove the valve from the throttle body be careful not to damage or lose the gasket. You will need that gasket on reinstallation.

BoxsterTaff is right about finding the vacuum hoses that are inserted in each side of rubber sleeves that connects the center tube to the intake manifolds. Also, his trick of starting the passenger side bolt on the third tube is ingenious and then nipping out a section of the ear so that it can slide under. That alone will save you a ton of time. I used a magnetic pickup tool to work the bolt in place and then using a free hand to get the bolt started and then finally a socket with a swivel extension. It's tough because you can't get a socket perfectly on top of it.

[BoxsterTaff]

Yes, that 2nd bolt is a bear! I didn't have a swivle joint for my rench and was in no mood to go out and get one by this point :cursing: so i took an old 10mm socket, and a long, large flat head screw driver that i happened to have and hammered into the top of the 10mm socket, this gave me a 'socket' thin enough to get a good angle on the 2nd bolt past the alternator.....There's just not enough room to get your hand down there with the 3rd section of tube in Dale. Only make a 2mm cut, not much wider than the blade, and use a washer on the 10mm bolt.

Of course, Kbrandsma's way is much less barn-yard! And should probably take preference over my fix! Though the tube isn't under any pressure / load.

Edited March 5, 2011 by BoxsterTaff

[Dale_K]

Thanks very much for those pictures, espcially the one with the intake tubes removed. I don't have a problem with barn yard methods as long as they work.

[uladzislau]

Guys, I have recently (yesterday :)) replaced my oil filler tube - the one that goes from the trunk to the engine and has a corrugated section. The new tube I've ordered is a bit different from the original one and I know that Porsche has changed the part number for both the filling tube and the filling pipe. The filling pipe is а plastic 90-degree angled elbow that's bolted to the engine block.

Anyway, I was not able to fully push the new oil fill tube onto the original oil fill pipe. It is possible that the design has changed a bit and it's impossible now. It sits tight and I've put the original clamp on it, I don't think I have any air leaks. If I try to push harder I may break the oil fill pipe at the side of the engine and then it will hell of a lot of troubles to replace.

So my question to you guys, if you have replaced the tube were you able to fully push it onto the original filling pipe? And if yes - how? Thanks!