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Posted

My windows have started dropping as though the release for the top has been opened when I go over a curb or rail road tracks (and in some cases normal Louisiana roads). Is there a sensor that needs to be cleaned or replaced to remedy this malady?

Cheers,

Vernon

Posted

My windows have started dropping as though the release for the top has been opened when I go over a curb or rail road tracks (and in some cases normal Louisiana roads). Is there a sensor that needs to be cleaned or replaced to remedy this malady?

Cheers,

Vernon

Vernon:

From the symptoms that you describe, the most likely cause is one of the two microswitches that are located in the latch receptacle in the windshield frame.

There are two microswitches in the latch receptacle assembly. There is one on the left side of the assembly (has a large plunger that juts out when the latch is open). That one controls the 4" window drop that occurs immediately when you pull down the latch to open the top. There is another one on the right side of the assembly, and that is the one that activates the convertible top double relay.

My guess in your case is that it is the former( a bent, plunger-type switch), and that in all likelihood the plastic part of that switch has become deformed, either from heat or from use and that the switch is losing contact when you hit a bump. When the plastic in the mechanism has bent, the microswitch will usually still work when it is pushed in farther. You can test this theory by putting something in between the latch and the switch (like a small rectangular piece of cardboard) and see if the problem goes away. If you want to test it immediately before you devise a small piece of cardboard, close the top and, before you pull the latch shut, press into the spot where the tip of the hook of the latch normally goes (either with your finger or with the eraser part of a pencil) and see if the windows remain all the way closed. If that works (and I think it will), then you can decide if you want to stick a little piece of cardboard (or similar material) on the end of the hook or if you want to take the latch receptacle apart and try to bend the bent plastic part back into shape, or replace the microswitch. If it doesn't work, you will have to replace that switch. Let me know if you need the part number and I'll look it up for you (give me the year of your Boxster).

To gain access to the microswitch you have to remove the latch plate at the center of the windshield frame. Pop out the two little black plastic "eyes" by carefully prying them off with a very small flat blade screwdriver or borrow one of those "orange sticks" that women use on their fingernails to pry them out. Remove the small torx bolt that you will find under each one of the two eyes. Remove them and then pull down the latch plate carefully until you can see and access the wires for the switch and for the light. Unplug the wires and the latch plate will come off. You will find two fragile retaining clips that attach the other switch to the underside of the latch plate and the bent plunger-type switch.

Regards, Maurice.

  • Upvote 1
  • 6 years later...
Posted
On 1/25/2011 at 9:48 PM, 1schoir said:

Vernon:

From the symptoms that you describe, the most likely cause is one of the two microswitches that are located in the latch receptacle in the windshield frame.

There are two microswitches in the latch receptacle assembly. There is one on the left side of the assembly (has a large plunger that juts out when the latch is open). That one controls the 4" window drop that occurs immediately when you pull down the latch to open the top. There is another one on the right side of the assembly, and that is the one that activates the convertible top double relay.

My guess in your case is that it is the former( a bent, plunger-type switch), and that in all likelihood the plastic part of that switch has become deformed, either from heat or from use and that the switch is losing contact when you hit a bump. When the plastic in the mechanism has bent, the microswitch will usually still work when it is pushed in farther. You can test this theory by putting something in between the latch and the switch (like a small rectangular piece of cardboard) and see if the problem goes away. If you want to test it immediately before you devise a small piece of cardboard, close the top and, before you pull the latch shut, press into the spot where the tip of the hook of the latch normally goes (either with your finger or with the eraser part of a pencil) and see if the windows remain all the way closed. If that works (and I think it will), then you can decide if you want to stick a little piece of cardboard (or similar material) on the end of the hook or if you want to take the latch receptacle apart and try to bend the bent plastic part back into shape, or replace the microswitch. If it doesn't work, you will have to replace that switch. Let me know if you need the part number and I'll look it up for you (give me the year of your Boxster).

To gain access to the microswitch you have to remove the latch plate at the center of the windshield frame. Pop out the two little black plastic "eyes" by carefully prying them off with a very small flat blade screwdriver or borrow one of those "orange sticks" that women use on their fingernails to pry them out. Remove the small torx bolt that you will find under each one of the two eyes. Remove them and then pull down the latch plate carefully until you can see and access the wires for the switch and for the light. Unplug the wires and the latch plate will come off. You will find two fragile retaining clips that attach the other switch to the underside of the latch plate and the bent plunger-type switch.

Regards, Maurice.

I have the same problem, and have a piece of plastic in there to keep it from opening. What is the part number for the microswitch on a 1997 boxster base? Thanks!

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