Need a new clutch, what are my options?

[venturawildes]

Hi there, getting ready to replace the clutch in my 2002 996 Cabriolet. It doesn't slip when short shifting, which I use as my benchmark, however if I have a friend in the car and get on it, it slips. Also, I cannot seem to break the rear tires loose. When replacing the clutch is the straight OEM enough? Are there any upgrade options to consider? Maybe GT3 clutch? Also, should I replace the seal while everything is out? And the tranny oil?

Thanks!

[phillipj]

Unless you really drive the car hard I would say to stick with the OEM clutch. You can get a kit online for a good price As far a the RMS seal goes if it isn't leaking most people say to leave it alone. Your tranny oil is good for 80k miles. If you do change it make sure you stick with the Porsche recommended oils. Lots of people have had issues when using other brands.

Hope this helps..

[mookster]

You could go with sport clutch and light weight flywheel (LWF).

I did this on my 2003 cab. This is a costly upgrade. It took a day to relearn to drive the vehicle and the car did spin up faster. 30K on the setup without issues, mechanically speaking.

However this assy did make lots more transmission noise and a very loud clackity-clack noise (diesel truck sounds) that could drive you crazy.

Looking back for a street only vehicle, I would go with replacing the clutch with the original assy. It was a lot of fun.

Replace the flywheel seal and upgrade the clutch fork while you are in there. If the RMS is leaking, have it fixed. If the RMS is not leaking, I would leave it alone. (if you replace the RMS it adds one hour to the repair plus $40ish in parts).

As a side note, if you are attempting burn-out driving, this is not the vehicle!. I would not suggest driving this way. The tranny is the weak link and that type of driving will cost you a ton of money.

Shift slow, drive fast and be safe.

Mookster

[JFP in PA]

You could go with sport clutch and light weight flywheel (LWF).

I did this on my 2003 cab. This is a costly upgrade. It took a day to relearn to drive the vehicle and the car did spin up faster. 30K on the setup without issues, mechanically speaking.

However this assy did make lots more transmission noise and a very loud clackity-clack noise (diesel truck sounds) that could drive you crazy.

Looking back for a street only vehicle, I would go with replacing the clutch with the original assy. It was a lot of fun.

Replace the flywheel seal and upgrade the clutch fork while you are in there. If the RMS is leaking, have it fixed. If the RMS is not leaking, I would leave it alone. (if you replace the RMS it adds one hour to the repair plus $40ish in parts).

As a side note, if you are attempting burn-out driving, this is not the vehicle!. I would not suggest driving this way. The tranny is the weak link and that type of driving will cost you a ton of money.

Shift slow, drive fast and be safe.

Mookster

I would not use a light weight solid flywheel on any M96 that has not been fully internally harmonically balanced; the dual mass OEM unit is the sole source of torsional and harmonic dampening in the drive line...............

[Red Aero]

Hello I'm fairly new to this site, but i need help with my '99 C2.

It's been like two months now that i haven't used the 996 when my clutch pedal stayed depressed on my way to an errand.

I have replaced both Clutch Master & Slave cylinders already (c/o Carlsen Porsche) but still don't have the correct clutch pedal feel.

By the way, my 996 C2 is just 10K miles that's why my technician asked me to replace the Master & Slave of my clutch system.

After installing the new parts, my technician is puzzled why there is only clutch pedal "feel" about 2-inches from the floor . . .

My question is:

DO I HAVE A WORN INTERNAL CLUTCH PART?

DISC?

PRESSURE PLATE?

Bryan