Oil fill pipe, tube or gooseneck

[Rapewta]

Yesterday I replaced the Polyrib belt on the 99 Carrera C2 coupe. Thanks to the DIY tutorial, It was

very quick and easy. However, after removing the airbox I noticed the oil fill pipe was cracked where

the flex starts. I looked into the "common fixes and repairs" section and decided not to JB weld or

A/B epoxy it. I am going to buy a new one. I couldn't find anything on how to remove the long gooseneck

from the engine block. Can it be removed without too much effort and how do you remove it?

The Duct tape I used as a temporary fix matches the Artic Silver of the car and is pretty fashionable.

Yes, I am going to become a "contributor" soon. I have already saved tons of headaches and money using

this site.

Edited January 7, 2011 by Rapewta

[phillipj]

I know that it is a pain in the butt to replace the filler pipe. I believe it is easiest to do it with the engine out... Yeah I know..:cursing:

Do a search here. I believe there are some threads on this project..

Good luck and become a contributor!

:cheers:

[RFM]

Remove the air filter box, alternator and throttle body (make it easier and create more room). The oil filler pipe is bolted on the top of the engine block (2 bolts). Parts needed: 1 x O - ring and 1 x oil filler pipe. Success.

[Rapewta]

Sounds easy enough. Pelecan Parts has the part. I'll order it today. Thanks.

[amcleod1]

If you have access to the 996 Factory Manuals see Group 15 17 19 pages 17-27 to 17-31 - Removing and Installing the Oil filler Neck (engine installed). Same process as described by RFM but step by step.

[Rapewta]

I guess getting the Factory Manuals (Discs) is the way to go.

Yesterday, I changed the spark plugs using renntech DIY. Took the mufflers off and it was

an easy job. Lots of help here from past experiences, what tools help make the work easier, etc.

Today, the f/r brake pads.

The fellow I got the car from has the shop manuals on disc but has never sent them to me like he

promised. If they don't show up with the front license plate (as promised) I will just order the manuals on line.

[ktrimble]

I just replaced the oil filler tube on my 99 Carrera..I just purchased my 911 and when i was cleaning the engine.I removed the air box, and the oil filler tube snaped right at the flex.I was so pissed. I looked where it might connect on the engine and realized I couldn't even see the bolts where it attached..I had to cut off a piece of the tube and was able to slide the inlet into the broken tube. I used a hose clamp and silicone to seal any leaks. Horray it worked! Although the tube was now shorter it didn't seem to effect the engine performance. I went to close the engine hood and it wouldn't shut. What now I thought.I removed the oil tube clamp on the air box and it worked.

I purchased the oil tube filler and O ring for about 60 bucks..I wasn't sure when I would give it a try. I have some mechanical experience but this is a Porsche. I really dont like working on my cars but I hate it even worse when I have to pay someone else to do it, and its Hundreds more..So after reding forums on here. I gave it ago. Here's what I did...

Air box- Remove intake Hose from throttle body. MAF sensor connector. 13mm bolt at bottom. Pull out.

Belt- Use a 24 mm socket and a large wrench on the tensioner pulley and move it to the left to free the tension. I took a picture of the belt rotation before I removed it..It helped..Check all pulleys to make sure they spin freely.

Throttle body- Pull the accelerator cable from th The T/B. (Push the butterfly to loosen the cable)

Loosen 4 10mm bolts that attach the T/B. Pull off gently. Remove two electrical connectors and air tube. Remove the cable stop by using a srew driver to push both sides in from top and bottom and pull gently at the same time..This was a little tricky..If the unit is dirty this is a great time to clean it. Use an electical cleaner to clean off the gunk. Inside and out..Remove any silicone from the gasket areas. This gave it a smoother acceleration and smoother idle..

Altenator- Remove two 15mm bolts. Use a small pry bar from the right side and move the altenator to the left. After you free it from the upper bracket turn counter clockwise and wiggle it out.This is really tight and no room. This is frustrating but keep trying. It took me 10 min..Remove the electrical connector and the 13mm nut on the back.

Alright, now I was able to see the two bolts that hold the oil tube on to the block..10mm REMOVE REAR BOLT FIRST(Bolt furthest from you) Dont want to take a chance of having it fall into the engine..I used a socket wrench with a smalll extension for both..The back bolt is tough to get to. Be patient its harder to get it back on..

So now I was ready to install. Grab the new filler tube and O ring..Lubricate the ring with some of the left over oil from the old tube and install..Place the tube on the the exisisting hole and bolt them down. Dont over tighten. The back was tough to screw in.

Reverse the process for the altenator,T/B,airbox and belt..

The altenator was tricky to get in. Once I got it lined up with the bolt holes. The bolts wouldn't fit. I had to do the bottom bolt first and barely screwed it in, then I was able to lightly hit the top bolt with a rubber mallet and got it in. I was concerened about a gasket for the T/B so I used a gasket silicone for that.

It took me about 3 hours to fix but its done right and I saved $400.00...Thanks to the guys who posted info about this..It really helped..I hope it hepls anyone who has to tackle this little project..

Edited February 24, 2013 by ktrimble

[DBJoe996]

Very good write up on how to accomplish this fix. As with all work on or around the engine: Step One - disconnect the battery!