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Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi

I have done an engine swap on my boxster to a 3.2 engine and having trouble getting it to start. Originally I Purchased everything for the swap in 2002 spec i.e DME 7.2 Full Wiring loom cluster and abs pump. I had issues with the engine in respect of it not starting and after lots of issues I found out with the help of loren that my 2002 full working engine was actually a 2004 engine with an ims faliure. The engine has ben stripped and repaired and rebuilt. now with some slight wiring mods and a DME 7.8 the car turns over and gets to the point where it will fire but not go that extra bit. I have checked the timings and everything seems fine in that respect. has anyone got any ideas. think of it as a 2002 car with upgraded engine and ecu. also something else the interior is not in the car I read somewhere that airbags not being connected will stop the car starting I dont think its this as there is fuel and it is firing just not runningcursing.gif

Posted (edited)

Hi

I have done an engine swap on my boxster to a 3.2 engine and having trouble getting it to start. Originally I Purchased everything for the swap in 2002 spec i.e DME 7.2 Full Wiring loom cluster and abs pump. I had issues with the engine in respect of it not starting and after lots of issues I found out with the help of loren that my 2002 full working engine was actually a 2004 engine with an ims faliure. The engine has ben stripped and repaired and rebuilt. now with some slight wiring mods and a DME 7.8 the car turns over and gets to the point where it will fire but not go that extra bit. I have checked the timings and everything seems fine in that respect. has anyone got any ideas. think of it as a 2002 car with upgraded engine and ecu. also something else the interior is not in the car I read somewhere that airbags not being connected will stop the car starting I dont think its this as there is fuel and it is firing just not runningcursing.gif

I could be wrong - but did you get the DME programmed to match the Immobilizer. If they do not match -- security will not let you fire up the engine.

The other possibility would be that the crank position sensor is not hooked up properly -- or the wires are swapped with the cam position sensor.

I believe the two connectors can be physically interchanged.

the M96 will rotate I think 3 times before firing. During this period it is observing the crank position sensor as well as the cam position sensors

to make sure all looks good before lighting up the spark plugs and fuel injectors. Sort of a diagnostic self test on the timing system.

Mike

mike

Edited by txhokie4life
Posted

Hi

Alarm box is the one that goes with ECU. ECU alarm box and transponder all came from same vehicle cam sensor and crank sensor are different ends of the engine (if im looking at the right things)

cheers

Ross

Posted (edited)

Agree. You need the immobilizer and the keyfob from the 7.8 DME car.

Edited by sergiu
Posted

Agree. You need the immobilizer and the keyfob from the 7.8 DME car.

the ecu alarm and key fob all came from the same car If it was the alarm stopping it the engine wouldnt turn over and it does

Cheers

Posted

Any Ideas

I read on another post that airbags can stop the car running I also thought the could be a difference between clusters on the dme 7.2 and dme 7.8

thanks for the input

  • Admin
Posted

It is not the airbags.

If the engine turns over but does not start - then begin with the fundamentals -- air, fuel, and spark.

Check the fuel pump delivery by pulling a line and catch the fuel (if there is any) to verify there is fuel present when cranking.

You can check the spark with an inductance lead on any good volt meter.

Posted

it is not the fuel as you can smell it. It was also leaking from the manifolds as it wasnt being ignited.

I have checked the timing and that the cams are the right way round thought i may have mixed them up at first.

I havent got a MAF connected at the moment.

Put new spark plugs in but made no difference.

It almost starts but wont run I will try and post a vid on tuesday

How can i test the spark conventional spark plug testers wont work due to plug deep in head

Cheers for the help

Posted

Update

I have recieved a pdf for 7.2 to 7.8 from todd so have checked that over however apart from a few ancillary bits it was all correct.

Checked the spark. I have a strong spark on 1,2 weak spark on 3 no spark on 4 and weak on 5,6 I tested this by removing the coils and attaching spark testers with the coils out.

whilst i did this i had fuel drip from headers so i am positive their is fuel present

any ideas what could cause this

cheers

Posted (edited)

No Ideas?

I have checked continuaty between all injectors and ignition powers and gounds and between black cables (i dont know what these do apart from connect all this equipment together) havent checked power readings from ecu. what power should I get from ignition wires and also what other wires should i check for an output.

Is it possible that the ecu is faulty. Does that happen

thanks for the help

Ross

Edited by alstarz88
Posted

Update

I stuck a multimeter on the ignition wires coming out of the dme and I am getting continous 12.4V before cranking is this correct?

what else can be tested

Cheers

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