Check engine light with OPD II code P0410

[steveltx]

Hi,

The P0410 code kept returning for every 90 miles driven. This is a 1999 Boxster.

Did the search on the forum and there are many causes for the code. One possible cause is the

defective air change over valve that's directly connected to Secondary Air Injection Pump.

I checked the vaccuum hoses and they are not broken.

I am thinking about replacing the air change over valve. It's the #2 in the attached picture.

I noticed that in order to change it, I'll need

to remove the intake manifold above the valve.

How difficult is it to remove the intake manifold on the passenger side? If I can remove it, I know I can

change the valve.

I appreciate your help.

Steve

[steveltx]

Comment please. Thanks.

[flyingpenguin]

I am having the same issue with my 1999 Boxster. Ordered (thanks Jeff@Sunset!) the Air Change Over Valve and Electric Change Over Valve (numbers 2 and 3) and plan the install next weekend.

I already had the old parts out once for a bench test / cleaning (to no avail obviously), and I did not remove the intake manifold on top. Both valves are accessible when you remove the panel behind the seats (from the passenger compartment) as well as the alternator.

Before going in, I would check vaccuum canister and all lines first.

JP

Edited January 14, 2011 by flyingpenguin

[steveltx]

I am having the same issue with my 1999 Boxster. Ordered (thanks Jeff@Sunset!) the Air Change Over Valve and Electric Change Over Valve (numbers 2 and 3) and plan the install next weekend.

I already had the old parts out once for a bench test / cleaning (to no avail obviously), and I did not remove the intake manifold on top. Both valves are accessible when you remove the panel behind the seats (from the passenger compartment) as well as the alternator.

Before going in, I would check vaccuum canister and all lines first.

JP

Hi JP,

Thanks for the response. It's nice to know that I don't need to remove the intake manifold. I haven't done the task yet because I am not sure that

I can remove the intake manifold because of the tight space around the engine.

I got my air change over valve and I will try to replace it from the panel behind the seat.

I will probably order the electric change over valve and replace it too.

Steve

[kbrandsma]

I recently changed my change over valve and accessed it from inside the cabin. You have to remove keys from ignition, disconnect negative lead to the battery and remove the passenger seat, then rear carpet covering then the access aluminum panel. You then remove serpintine belt and then alternator. The change over valve is directly behind the alternator. To get the alternator out you also have to put the top in service position and open up main engine bay to gain access to the main electrical leads to disconnect from alternator. It wasn't difficult but a lot of work.

I would do all over again by removing the fuel intake manifold. You will need to remove the throttle assembly (tube bewteen manifolds that connects the throttle body). You can remove the six bolts (M6 x 16) to the intake manifold in any order, but on re-assembly you should reconnect the manifold and bolts in the sequence below to 7 ft.lbs torque.

The other reason I would approach this way as it allows to better inspect vacuum hoses. You can also give the throttle body a good cleaning. One reason why I went from behind the passenger seat was to also replace my serpentine belt.

Good luck! Keep us updated!

Edited February 26, 2011 by kbrandsma

[flyingpenguin]

<br />I am having the same issue with my 1999 Boxster. Ordered (thanks Jeff@Sunset!) the Air Change Over Valve and Electric Change Over Valve (numbers 2 and 3) and plan the install next weekend.<br /><br />I already had the old parts out once for a bench test / cleaning (to no avail obviously), and I did not remove the intake manifold on top. Both valves are accessible when you remove the panel behind the seats (from the passenger compartment) as well as the alternator.<br /><br />Before going in, I would check vaccuum canister and all lines first.<br /><br />JP<br />

<br /><br /><br />

Turned out it was a bunch of brittle vacuum lines. Before buying any parts I'd replaxe the vacuum lines first. Now I have a perfectly good set of change over valves added to my misc. parts bin...

Joost

[steveltx]

I recently changed my change over valve and accessed it from inside the cabin. You have to remove keys from ignition, disconnect negative lead to the battery and remove the passenger seat, then rear carpet covering then the access aluminum panel. You then remove serpintine belt and then alternator. The change over valve is directly behind the alternator. To get the alternator out you also have to put the top in service position and open up main engine bay to gain access to the main electrical leads to disconnect from alternator. It wasn't difficult but a lot of work.

I would do all over again by removing the fuel intake manifold. You will need to remove the throttle assembly (tube bewteen manifolds that connects the throttle body). You can remove the six bolts (M6 x 16) to the intake manifold in any order, but on re-assembly you should reconnect the manifold and bolts in the sequence below to 7 ft.lbs torque.

The other reason I would approach this way as it allows to better inspect vacuum hoses. You can also give the throttle body a good cleaning. One reason why I went from behind the passenger seat was to also replace my serpentine belt.

Good luck! Keep us updated!

mo

Hi,

Thanks for the information. I still haven't done it. I opened the panel behind the back seat. I saw the alternator. It seems it's more difficult removing alternator than removing

the intake manifold. I think I can remove the bolts 1-2-3-4. For the bolt #5, it's under a rigid hose and I think the hose is connected to the air oil separator. The hose is in the way.

I disconnected the hose connector at the oil separator end but seems I can't clear the path so that I can remove the bolt #5. Any suggestion on this?

For the bolt 6, I think I can remove it from the panel behind the back seat.

The space around the manifold is just too tight and I am very nervous about touching any hose in the area. I am afraid that I might break the hoses.

I am pretty sure my machanic will charge me a lot of money on this. I haven't given up yet.

Thanks.

Steve

[steveltx]

I recently changed my change over valve and accessed it from inside the cabin. You have to remove keys from ignition, disconnect negative lead to the battery and remove the passenger seat, then rear carpet covering then the access aluminum panel. You then remove serpintine belt and then alternator. The change over valve is directly behind the alternator. To get the alternator out you also have to put the top in service position and open up main engine bay to gain access to the main electrical leads to disconnect from alternator. It wasn't difficult but a lot of work.

I would do all over again by removing the fuel intake manifold. You will need to remove the throttle assembly (tube bewteen manifolds that connects the throttle body). You can remove the six bolts (M6 x 16) to the intake manifold in any order, but on re-assembly you should reconnect the manifold and bolts in the sequence below to 7 ft.lbs torque.

The other reason I would approach this way as it allows to better inspect vacuum hoses. You can also give the throttle body a good cleaning. One reason why I went from behind the passenger seat was to also replace my serpentine belt.

Good luck! Keep us updated!

Hi all,

Finally got the air change over valve and electric change over valve replaced and the problem is fixed. The P0410 code hasn't returned for 500 miles.

I didn't do this myself and had my mechanic do it. He also replaced all the vacuum lines in the area.

He charged me for 2 and half hours of work so it's reasonable.

Thanks for all the helps.

Steve