Time for a new clutch and brakes?

[greenboxster]

:help:

After a hard weekend of tracking my stock '01 986 S at Road Atlanta (18,500 miles) that added approximately 300 miles, the engagement point of my clutch is further out than before (i.e. very far from the floor). Is this a sign that I am close to a replacement? The pedal effort hasn't changed, just the point at which it catches.

The car was a complete garage queen when I bought it in April with 10,500 miles, but now it's my daily driver.

Is a clutch upgrade (e.g. to a Sachs performance clutch) a smart move if I keep it as my daily driver or should I simply stick with the OEM type?

Anybody try a lightweight flywheel with any success?

Also, my brakes are now squeeking at low speeds, so I think I glazed those suckers on the track. Any suggestions for brakes that will handle an occasional track day but still be streetable (e.g. Pagid Orange, etc.)?

Thanks in advance! :notworthy:

[adsach]

18,500 isn't much on a clutch, I would expect 50,000+ miles. If half of those miles were by someone else it may be a clutch issue, but I suspect this is more of a cable/spring/clutch fluid/linkage type issue.

Also, my brakes are now squeeking at low speeds, so I think I glazed those suckers on the track.  Any suggestions for brakes that will handle an occasional track day but still be streetable (e.g. Pagid Orange, etc.)?

I think it is more likely you deglazed your street pads and they are now giving you applause :clapping: for a job well done. As you fall back into your gentler street driving ways, they will become quieter in the next week or so.

IMO the S pads are sufficient for DE at the track. If I were running a 2 hour Enduro, I would switch to Pagid Orange or Blue - mostly because I would want to make sure I didn't totally wear out my brake pads.

Because of the high pedal effort for track pads when cold, I consider them too dangerous for everyday use on the street. Even if you remember to allow long braking zones 97% of the time, the time you forget could cause an avoidable crash. Plus they squeak wore than stock pads.

Somewhere around 10-15 hours a year of aggressive on track driving time, the track brake pads start to make sense because of better wear characteristics. When/if I reach that point, I plan to swap in the track pads before tech inspection, and reinstall street pads after I get home from the track. If you leave off the wear sensors and install speed bleeders, replacing pads takes only 10-15 minutes per wheel.

[1999/986]

i thought that hydrolic clutches didn't change engagment positions?? i was told that it would just become harder to press the pedal in as it became more worn. is this true?

lsc

[BoxSinit]

Somewhere around 10-15 hours a year of aggressive on track driving time, the track brake pads start to make sense because of better wear characteristics. When/if I reach that point, I plan to swap in the track pads before tech inspection, and reinstall street pads after I get home from the track. If you leave off the wear sensors and install speed bleeders, replacing pads takes only 10-15 minutes per wheel.

Where can I find these speed bleeders for my "S" and how much. Thanks.

[ar38070]

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

[BoxSinit]

Thanks!