P1539 CEL help

[chubert]

Hia ll,

I have been chasing a P1539 code for a while on my 99 Boxster. It has 55K. It posts a "pending" P1539 code within 10 miles after clearing the CEL. Then after 500 miles it lights the CEL. I have reset it 3-4 times this summer.

The CEL never flashes and no misires or other codes have popped up.

There is a very very small change in RPM up and down at idle all the time.

I have done the following so far.

Tested the connector from the DME and get 12V with the key on.

Applied 12V directly to the solenoid and it "clicks"

Applied 12V to the other solonoid and I get the same exact click.

If the actuator was bad would I be getting different codes? Is this typical of a bad solenoid?

What would be the next step in troubleshooting? Am I looking in the correct place??

Thanks

[mikefocke]

P1539 Triggering of the actuator, no active position.

Causes:

– Open circuit, triggering

– Open circuit, B+ supply

– Actuator defective

[JFP in PA]

Hia ll,

I have been chasing a P1539 code for a while on my 99 Boxster. It has 55K. It posts a "pending" P1539 code within 10 miles after clearing the CEL. Then after 500 miles it lights the CEL. I have reset it 3-4 times this summer.

The CEL never flashes and no misires or other codes have popped up.

There is a very very small change in RPM up and down at idle all the time.

I have done the following so far.

Tested the connector from the DME and get 12V with the key on.

Applied 12V directly to the solenoid and it "clicks"

Applied 12V to the other solonoid and I get the same exact click.

If the actuator was bad would I be getting different codes? Is this typical of a bad solenoid?

What would be the next step in troubleshooting? Am I looking in the correct place??

Thanks

P1539 is indicative of the VarioCam actuator on bank 2 not "assuming an active position", which is Porsche speak for it ain't working. The solenoid is only part of the picture, it can be moving (the click you hear), but the actuator is not moving due to other issues. Unfortunately, the only recourse is to pull the unit and replace it (actuator and solenoid). Budget in the range of $1,200-1,500 to have an indie do this...............

Edited November 26, 2010 by JFP in PA

[chubert]

Update... After applying voltage directly to the Solenoid with the car off I reset the CEL and went for a drive. After 5 miles it now has a pending P1524. This is the first time as it always has been a P1539. Looks more like the actuator is sticking if that's possible.

[JFP in PA]

It is probably not sticking, just not moving ("assuming an active position"). P1524 is the code for a failing actuator; however, it is wise to change both the solenoid and the actuator while the cam cover is off...........

[chubert]

Since these things are so expensive is it wise to buy a used actuator? Can they be tested outside the car?

[JFP in PA]

Unfortunately, buying a used actuator and solenoid could be a very bad idea as replacing the system is not difficult, but it is time consuming and requires more than a modicum of technical knowledge of the M96. If you installed a used actuator, and it was either bad or the wrong one (there is more than one part number), you would end up doing this swap more than once; and this is a bit more than a "shade tree DIY" project.................

[chubert]

I am determined to take on this project in my own garage. I have convinced myself with the cam hold down tool i can safely get to the solenoid to remove. I am not convinced yet i will remove the cams if the actuator is bad. But like Jeremey Clarkson says "how hard can it be?". Looks like i will remove the cover and bench test the solenoid first. Its not my daily driver so if its apart in the garage waiting for parts no biggie.

Any tips on finding tdc on bank 2 and holding i there if i decide to remove the cams afterall?

[JFP in PA]

Ummmmmmmm................no offense intended, but by your questions, I'm a little concerned about you "getting in over your head" here. TDC is locked by rotating the engine clockwise (ONLY!) until the "OT" hole on the crank belt pulley is lined up with the fixing boss and inserting short pin 9595 (around 5/16^th diam.) thru the pulley and into the bore. Once the pin is in, the engine is locked at TDC.

My major concern is your discussion of "pulling the cams"; are you in possession of all of the required tooling for this (9634 holding device for cams, 9612 cam timing/locking device, 9611 camshaft hold-down device, etc., etc.)? If you do not, or are not familiar with the some 57 pages of instructions on cam removal and reallocation from the OEM service manual set; I would think you are going to need some professional assistance...............

Edited November 29, 2010 by JFP in PA

[chubert]

Thanks for your concern as i can see its well intended! I am planning on buying the generic 9634 tool for the cover as well as the timing tool if i have to remove the cams. I also read the procedure on finding tdc but it seemed so simple i thought maybe i was missing something.

If i get into this and Dont feel comfortable its 100% assembled properly i will flatbed it to an indie.

The assembly actually looks straight forward im mostly con erned working within in the confines of the car.

[chubert]

One more thing. I read the article on pelican about changing the tensioners and the only thing that is not really clear to me is what the porsche timing tool that threads in to the case is really doing. It looks adjustable. How do you ensure proper tension when re installing the pulley to the cam? What does the p tool do differently than the standard screw in tensioner?

I will go review the manual again tonight but you seem to have great experience in this so first hand experience is better...

Edited November 30, 2010 by chubert

[JFP in PA]

It is adjustable; there are three of them in the set (#9599) that are used during engine assembly to simulate the hydraulic load (pretension) of the actual tensioners and chain guides while you set the cam timing (allocation) under static conditions for a new or rebuilt engine. Once the cams are allocated, you replace the tool with the real tensioners one at a time. If you did not use them, the cams would not be correct when the engine actually starts running...........

By the time you have "one of everything" tooling for the M96, you are about $10K out of pocket................

Edited November 30, 2010 by JFP in PA

[chubert]

Ok makes sense. Why would the pelican article about replacing the chain tensioners say you dont need the special tool. What is the trick he does?

I saw an sir kit that had most of the "timing" tools online for about $550. It had the various hold down tools and tool to lock the motor. I figured i would buy that kit or

piece it together depending on what i "really" need.

[JFP in PA]

Ok makes sense. Why would the pelican article about replacing the chain tensioners say you dont need the special tool. What is the trick he does?

Don't know, I have not read the article...............

[chubert]

My only guess would be the tool provides a very precise amount of pressure where the regular tensioners probably vary quite a bit