removable hardtop

[nydefense]

Bought a hardtop for 2001 cabrio. but top has threaded rear mount and car needs straight stud with T-end. Top is supposed to fit 99-03. Anyone know anything about these.

[Dharn55]

The threaded mounts are the new, and most say better version. They allow you to tighten down the top more to eliminate rattles. The tops are all the same from 98-2011. You can get a kit to upgrade older cars to the threaded type and them switch out the parts in the car. There is a TSB on this.

[Dharn55]

Looked it up, the TSB is 6117. The complete it is 000.043.300.46 and lists for $231.51. You could buy just the mounts, 996.561.653.04 and 996.561.654.04, but they list for $165.11@ so that makes no sense.

[Alfieboy]

Dharn55 is the tops for tops. The fact you got a threaded hardtop is a bonus, as the annual fitting of the hardtop is something to behold as you tweak and adjust, tweak and adjust so the windows track up and down properly, minimize squeaks, etc. Dont forget three really important things. 1. Connect the heated rear window before you drop it, or you have to lift it off again. 2. don't tighten it down so hard that you leave a mark on the back of the car. and finally, 3. always put the hardtop on lifting it over the rear of the car and moving it in place going forwards from there. You may need the kit, as previously suggested, but it's worth it. Just try not to do what I did (and do) and scratch the hard top each time it comes on and off and goes to and from its storage - it's big, it's heavy and it's easily marked if you rest it down, catch a doorframe, etc.

Oh, and if you're thinking the hard top looks odd when you first put it on, drive past a store with dark windows and seen how nice it looks, instantly forget the difference between the hard and soft top.

Edited November 13, 2010 by Alfieboy

[Beninki]

Dharn55 is the tops for tops. The fact you got a threaded hardtop is a bonus, as the annual fitting of the hardtop is something to behold as you tweak and adjust, tweak and adjust so the windows track up and down properly, minimize squeaks, etc. Dont forget three really important things. 1. Connect the heated rear window before you drop it, or you have to lift it off again. 2. don't tighten it down so hard that you leave a mark on the back of the car. and finally, 3. always put the hardtop on lifting it over the rear of the car and moving it in place going forwards from there. You may need the kit, as previously suggested, but it's worth it. Just try not to do what I did (and do) and scratch the hard top each time it comes on and off and goes to and from its storage - it's big, it's heavy and it's easily marked if you rest it down, catch a doorframe, etc.

Oh, and if you're thinking the hard top looks odd when you first put it on, drive past a store with dark windows and seen how nice it looks, instantly forget the difference between the hard and soft top.

You mention connecting the heated window. I just took delivery Friday of my 2000 C4 Cab and we have removed and replaced the hardtop once already... without doing anything special about the window heating. The heater worked fine. Are some of the tops self-connecting? Mine appears to have the upgraded attachments- it goes on very simply and snugly. How tight is too tight?

[Dharn55]

The rear window defrost is done through the mounting posts. I have never seen one with a separate connection.

[Orient Express]

Your hardtop is an 2003 or later hardtop if it has the newer threaded fasteners.

Here is a picture of the old vs new connectors.

[Dharn55]

Orient - I see the electrical wiring for the defroster on the old. Is this transferred to the new mounts or is the defroster wired differently on the new?

[Alfieboy]

I've seen on here folks claiming they left an impression on the rear body that supports the weight of the hardtop. I turn it as hard as possible and have never had an issue, just passing on the comments I saw from others. Probably has more to do with the rubber lining condition in my opinion. As regards connecting the rear heater, I read this on another thread by member JeTexas that you can find by searching on 'rear heated hard top'.:

There's a plastic ring on the driver's side mount with two wires that lead to a metal contact patch on the ring. There's also two wires on the top. You have to have contact on that ring for the electrical signal to the rear window defroster to work.

Unfortunately, those rings get brittle and tend to snap into pieces. I lost mine last year.

The ring isn't sold separately, so to fix it you have to buy an entirely new driver's side mount -- or clip the wires at both the top and the mount and splice them into a butt connecter, so that you can just put the top on and then plug in the wires.

Hope this helps.

-Alf

Edited November 16, 2010 by Alfieboy

[Orient Express]

Orient - I see the electrical wiring for the defroster on the old. Is this transferred to the new mounts or is the defroster wired differently on the new?

The new mount will have essentially the same electrical connectors on it. remove the old mount, disconnect the wiring pigtail, install the new mount, plug in its pigtail.

[BubbaC]

Is there an adjustment for the center latch on the front of the removable hardtop? My latch does not pull the top into the windshield tight enough to stop the air noise.

[987_RDC]

Sent ya a PM. I could use a set of the old style car mounts.

[moondoggy]

I have 2000c2 cabrio with hard top. Keep mine stored in ceiling mount designed and bought via internet for the top during summer. With this mount, a one man job to simply and carefully keep pressure on rope/pully while lifting off and attaching, with car centered under it. Keep heavy pad on rear in case I lower or remove badly. No separate wiring for rear windor heater. Great storage and doesn't require extra room for floor rack and believe less chance of damage to body. Plus, my opinion is that with on, nicer profile than coupe. You may remember that there was an early 356 coupe that looked like the 356 cabrio with hard top on.