Oil change, P1130 and P1128 less than two weeks later, followed by a s

[por986]

I replaced my AOS and immediately upon driving, I noticed a leak in the rear as well. When I looked under the vehicle, the leak appeared to be coming from the block - nowhere near the AOS. I immediately suspected the RMS due to location. So, I currently have it dismantled in my garage and my suspicions were confirmed. The RMS is leaking pretty good and I have found myself in the midst of replacing the RMS, IMS, etc. Seemed very coincidental and I suspect that fixing the AOS (the subsquent vaccum) did something to the RMS. Not sure how it all interacts together, but it sure was perfect timing to not be related.

Oh, to note, it didn't leak unless I drove it. Upon driving the first time, I chalked it up to residual oil from the AOS work and I didn't see anymore the next few days while it was sitting. I drove it 2 more times and both times there was a good amount of new oil on my garage floor. That was when I finally jacked it up and took a real look for the leak and discovered the AOS and related connections were bone dry.

Edited November 12, 2010 by por986

[shyster77]

I replaced my AOS and immediately upon driving, I noticed a leak in the rear as well. When I looked under the vehicle, the leak appeared to be coming from the block - nowhere near the AOS. I immediately suspected the RMS due to location. So, I currently have it dismantled in my garage and my suspicions were confirmed. The RMS is leaking pretty good and I have found myself in the midst of replacing the RMS, IMS, etc. Seemed very coincidental and I suspect that fixing the AOS (the subsquent vaccum) did something to the RMS. Not sure how it all interacts together, but it sure was perfect timing to not be related.

Oh, to note, it didn't leak unless I drove it. Upon driving the first time, I chalked it up to residual oil from the AOS work and I didn't see anymore the next few days while it was sitting. I drove it 2 more times and both times there was a good amount of new oil on my garage floor. That was when I finally jacked it up and took a real look for the leak and discovered the AOS and related connections were bone dry.

Maurice,

Appreciate the prompt response - I did take it in to my mechanic's today and the car was inspected under the jack.

Attached is the photo with the area marked on the oil leak portion.

Por986,

You may have just answered almost all the questions that I have here. Same experience as yours, car never leaked oil before the AOS replacement.

Note spots (verified by the mechanic to be not large) after long drives (doesn't show up with short ones though).

Same thought process from my mechanic too - that this could be taken care of when the new clutch needs to go in - though it is hard to determine if the leak is cos of the RMS or the IMS (I would presume, once there, both could be replaced).

Thoughts on my mind now,

1) Mechanic says the clutch shifts fine so unless the oil leak bothers you much, wait till you hear any mechanical sound (say bearings). My car has 102.5K miles on the original clutch though. Would I ruin the car if drive - ensuring that the oil levels stay intact. I just came out a $2.2K spend on it with the top transmissions (both of them) and the AOS so could use some breathing room before I dive in.

2) Can the catastrophic engine failure happens due to this oil leak assuming it is due to the worse of the two possibilities - the IMS?

Appreciate your insights, gentlemen...

[1schoir]

....

Thoughts on my mind now,

1) Mechanic says the clutch shifts fine so unless the oil leak bothers you much, wait till you hear any mechanical sound (say bearings). My car has 102.5K miles on the original clutch though. Would I ruin the car if drive - ensuring that the oil levels stay intact. I just came out a $2.2K spend on it with the top transmissions (both of them) and the AOS so could use some breathing room before I dive in.

2) Can the catastrophic engine failure happens due to this oil leak assuming it is due to the worse of the two possibilities - the IMS?

Appreciate your insights, gentlemen...

Shyster:

A little difficult to tell from that photo where the oil might be coming from.

1) IF it is only your RMS leaking, and it is not a big leak, it's more an annoyance than an emergency and the greatest risk you run is that the clutch disc will become contaminated with oil. Since you already have 102K miles on the original clutch, that would not be a great loss. Just be careful to monitor the clutch disc wear so that you don't run it too long and risk damaging the flywheel if the rivets from the disc start to gouge the flywheel surface.

2) If it is the IMS leaking (and there is no absolute way to tell short of pulling the transmission), then there is the possibility that the sealed IMS bearing has started to fail, and that could certainly lead to catastrophic engine failure.

For some peace of mind, since it just started leaking, you could drain the oil and inspect the oil and the pleats of the oil filter for any metallic bits or plastic bits. The plastic bits would be bits of the seal on the IMS bearing. To do a thorough inspection for any plastic bits, you would have to pull the oil pan and examine it more closely.

Regards, Maurice.

[por986]

Exactly where my leak was traveling to. Because I was holding off on my clutch, the leak called my bluff finally. I am doing the work myself with the help of a friend and others on this forum (to save as much money as possible) and quite honestly, it really hasn't been that difficult. I have 'never' worked on a car before and I figured "ah schucks, why not learn on this car" - ha. The friend that is helping me has never worked on a Porshce and has said this was the easiest transmission removal he has ever done. It took us 1.5 days to remove everything - I would chalk half a day to just driving back and forth from the auto shop :-\ Note, this is in my little garage on jack stands. Once the bell housing was removed, there was a little bit of oil collected which nearly guaranteed the RMS was at fault from those I asked.

FYI, I picked up a sach's clutch kit for $385, the IMS retrofit kit for approx $750*, AOS was $85, and the most expensive seems to be the CV boots that I realized I needed once I was under the car. From what I can tell, if they can't be rebuilt will cost ~$800 EACH for the axle assembly ouch! - but, I see some rebuilt ones on Ebay for about $230 each. I am holding off on that purchase until I can get the axle assembly off (the Axle nut is being stubborn) to take it to a rebuild shop.

This Thursday I will release the IMS bearing to see if it is bad, but nontheless, it is getting replaced as it is literally right below the RMS. Of course, if your leak is indeed from the IMS, don't drive it at all. But, if I were betting on this, all my money would be on the RMS. As Maurice stated, you can't know for sure without getting to the parts - of course, if found, bits and pieces in the oil will give you the bad news.

Whatever you do, good luck. Keep us posted - I am curious for sure.

* I found that there is a $150 kit coming out supposedly this month (if not already) via PelicanParts in conjunction with LN Engineering but I was told it will likely require a regular service interval - according to LN. I chose the more expensive for the simple fact that I feel that it is more road tested. Something about a 1st gen that had me concerned.

[shyster77]

Thanks, Gents! Appreciate your prompt responses here.

A friend and I tried to release some oil here - the tool that came with the kit - 8mm Allen didn't suffice - atleast manually.

His 2001 Boxster blew a tranny and he is pretty :cursing: with the TCO at this point too.

We usually take ours in to the independant here for oil changes so this was a first time jacking up, standing it and trying to drain the oil.

Is the plug on the oil pan torqued? It was quite tight.

Also for sometime now, I have heard this shrill noise (like the kind you hear with the tool that the dentist uses to drill/grind off cavities in our teeth) when the engine was cold - only when startup. This noise doesn't ever appear when the engine is warm.

Could this be of any help to indicate if any of the seals may be going out or is this something totally unrelated? :help:

I don't mind pay another $2K for the clutch/RMS/IMS etc - flywheel will add more - love this little fella too much.

Unfortunately, this being my one vehicle, I'm going to buy a second car this week so that I don't put too much load on this guy.

[shyster77]

Car went thru an oil change today. No sign of any bits - plastic or metal.

I'm going to change out the clutch in a couple of months - nonetheless, and seal out the RMS and IMS.