Immediate Help - Cleaned MAF, screwed it up?!?!

[gandrade1]

Hi guys,

I just cleaned the MAF with the appropriate cleaner.

I put it back on and the car is now sputtering and idling totally erratic...I test drove it and it almost stalled. WHAT HAVE I DONE?

Can I have assembled it in the wrong position? Do you guys have a picture?

Is it even possible to assemble it in any other way??

Please help.

It is my daily driver.

All the best

Gus

[Loren]

If you disconnected the battery then your car may be going through the re-learn cycle. If so, then it should straighten out in a few miles.

If you did not disconnect the battery then your MAF may be toast.

[gandrade1]

If you disconnected the battery then your car may be going through the re-learn cycle. If so, then it should straighten out in a few miles.

If you did not disconnect the battery then your MAF may be toast.

Hi Loren,

I disconnected the battery and only plugged it back once the MAF was back in, but it feels very bad...

How do I ensure the MAF is not burned?

Thanks,

Gus

[Loren]

Give it a little time first AND make surre you don't have any air leaks with the intake.

The only way to test the MAF (completely) is to look at the readings (Duramettric, PST2, or PIWIS) at idle and no load 2500 RPM.

It should be 12 - 24 ML in kg/h and 40 - 70 kg/h respectively.

[02tx996cab]

The MAF can be installed "backwards". The "notch" or opening in the MAF needs to face towards the air intake. The installation instructions for the K&N FIPK (http://www.knfilters.com/instructions/57-7000_inst.pdf look at photos 26 and 26a) have good pictures of proper MAF orientation.

If that's not the problem then your system may be re-learning--due to both battery disconnect and being clean.

Good luck.

[Loren]

The MAF can be installed "backwards". The "notch" or opening in the MAF needs to face towards the air intake. The installation instructions for the K&N FIPK (http://www.knfilters...7-7000_inst.pdf look at photos 26 and 26a) have good pictures of proper MAF orientation.

If that's not the problem then your system may be re-learning--due to both battery disconnect and being clean.

Good luck.

The MAF can not be installed backwards on a stock intake.

[gandrade1]

The MAF can be installed "backwards". The "notch" or opening in the MAF needs to face towards the air intake. The installation instructions for the K&N FIPK (http://www.knfilters...7-7000_inst.pdf look at photos 26 and 26a) have good pictures of proper MAF orientation.

If that's not the problem then your system may be re-learning--due to both battery disconnect and being clean.

Good luck.

The MAF can not be installed backwards on a stock intake.

Guys thank you very much...

The car still feels very bad. I drove it to work today and it totally sucks. It feels like it is misfiring, sputtering. Like a choked motorcycle or something.

So I guess re-learning is out of the picture. I might have burned the thing from overspraying or not waiting for it to dry long enough, etc...

I ordered another MAF, which wont get here until tomorrow.

This is my daily driver. What can happen if I drive the car like this until tomorrow?

All the best,

Gus

[Loren]

It should run fine under 4000 RPM without the MAF.

If it does not then it probably is not the MAF.

As long as the CEL is not flashing it is safe to drive without cat damage - but if it won't run smooth without the MAF there is another problem.

Check the fault codes.

[gandrade1]

It should run fine under 4000 RPM without the MAF.

If it does not then it probably is not the MAF.

As long as the CEL is not flashing it is safe to drive without cat damage - but if it won't run smooth without the MAF there is another problem.

Check the fault codes.

Hi Loren,

I drove with the MAF on. I have not tried driving without it.

Should I remove the MAF and drive without it or can I drive with the MAF on despite the sputtering? I will get the part tomorrow and will install tomorrow night, but for now I have no other way to get to work :-(

It is around 30 miles man...of bad traffic.

Edited September 22, 2010 by gandrade1

[Loren]

I would just unplug it and drive under 4000 RPM.

[gandrade1]

I would just unplug it and drive under 4000 RPM.

I can leave the MAF in place and just unplug the connector, right?

Thanks,

Gus

[Loren]

Correct.

[gandrade1]

Correct.

Thank you Loren...

Unplugged the MAF and drove to work (under 4000rpm) this morning without a problem.

Just got a UPS notification that the new MAF arrived. Any tips on installing it?

The plug on the back on the MAF only goes in in one direction also, right?

Should I put the part in the intake first and then plug the connector in the back or the order doesn't matter? I am overthinking this, but I am s*** scared of spoiling another part :-)

BTW AutohausAZ has the best price around for the part that goes in my car 125 01

Thanks again.

All the best,

Gus

Edited September 22, 2010 by gandrade1

[Loren]

If your intake is stock then both the plug and the MAF will only fit one way.

[split]

Is it dangerous to drive without a MAF? Last night I was cleaning my MAF and forgot to reinstall it. This morning I drove to work and made it the whole way before I realized i was driving MAF-less. This was rush hour traffic, so I wouldn't have been able to exceed 4000rpm even if i wanted to. Is it going to be dangerous for me to drive home without a MAF or should I reinstall it before driving?

[Loren]

You will eventually throw a fault code. The MAF tells the DME the mass air flow and air flow temperature - so it is best to hook it back up.

[JFP in PA]

Kind of throw’s a new light on all of the supposedly MAF related problems and codes when someone takes it out and leaves it on the bench and drives the car off with no apparent ill effects……………….

[shubchs]

OMG, after reading this thread, and heretofore having purchased the MAF Cleaner, thinking a check engine light readout surmised it was necessary to clean it, I believe I'll do more harm than good, I don't think I will ever attempt it!

[JFP in PA]

OMG, after reading this thread, and heretofore having purchased the MAF Cleaner, thinking a check engine light readout surmised it was necessary to clean it, I believe I'll do more harm than good, I don't think I will ever attempt it!

What code(s) are you getting?

[shubchs]

P1128 bank # 1

P1130 Bank # 2

However, this is the second time the check engine light came on, we then cleared the codes, and have gone some hours driving and no check engine light returns. Strange. The last time the engine light came on was directly after an oil & filter change, just prior to mothballing the car for the winter. Cleared the codes in the Spring, and so far no engine light return. Methinks to leave it ALONE!

What code(s) are you getting?

[JFP in PA]

While it may involve the MAF, more likely culprits are either vacuum leaks or a fuel pressure/volume issue. Both codes indicate that the air fuel ratio is on the lean side and the DME cannot richen it, so I'd start with looking for vacuum leaks (the most common cause) first. You can still pull and clean the MAF as well as that never hurts.

[shubchs]

If and when (hopefully not) the check engine light comes on again, I'll be able to check on the suggestions offered. Many thanks for the replies.

Steve Hubbard

[Orient Express]

It is assumed that you have the airbox to throttle plate pipe correctly installed with no air leaks? If you did not put the pipe back on correctly, that would make the car run lean, which would cause problems like what you describe. Loosen the hose clamps and make sure the hose pipe is correctly seated.