1999 boxster engine swap

[kef22]

Swapping out a 2.5 blown up motor (34,000 miles) from 99 boxster with 5 spd. Lots of questions. easiest swap would be another 2.5 and would it matter if auto or 5 speed? Lots of people are going to carrera 3.4 but items have to be changed around because rear engine becoming mid engine and also the exhaust has to be changed out, I believe? and are their other major costs involved. What is wrong with going to boxster 2000 to 2001 either 2.7 or S motor. Isn't that an easier swap. When the motors are swapped and they all have their harnesses intact can't they simply be put in the car with their corrisponding computer in the trunk. Your forum talks about reprogramming the DME.(I believe thats what is called). Who does that and how much does that cost. I am doing the work myself and almost ready to drop tranny and engine. Will purchase junkyard motor with low miles. Will also change out the ims bearing before it goes in the car.

Why go to a $600 dollar bearing verus a $100 bearing? Someone said that the U.K. has a bearing replacement. Doesn't porsche have a replacement by now. Keep the oil clean and don't run a sealed bearing! Seems thats the real issue!

Also for those of you that know, how do you like breaking a 325 lb torgue when you remove the driveshaft. I will try that tonight. Cheater pipe and probably will break my breaker bar. Will except any help but don't like making a mistake when I spend this kind of money. (by the way I spent $2500 on this car so I am not the one that got hurt.)

Also one more thing. I'am I the only one on this porsche forum that thinks the boxster is more fun to drive than a carrera! Thanks for your help.

[Dr.Strangepork]

This link provides a lot of info:

http://www.pelicanpa...Engine_Swap.htm

Swapping out a 2.5 blown up motor (34,000 miles) from 99 boxster with 5 spd. Lots of questions. easiest swap would be another 2.5 and would it matter if auto or 5 speed?

The only issue I would see arising from using an automatic-based engine with a manual transmission would be if the crankshaft snouts are different on the flywheel side - manual transmission crankshafts usually have provisions for a pilot bearing. An automatic may have some different sort of setup to allow a torque converter to be installed. I don't know whether the cranks are different on Boxster motors offhand, but I'm sure someone with more knowledge will chime in.

Lots of people are going to carrera 3.4 but items have to be changed around because rear engine becoming mid engine and also the exhaust has to be changed out, I believe? and are their other major costs involved. What is wrong with going to boxster 2000 to 2001 either 2.7 or S motor. Isn't that an easier swap. When the motors are swapped and they all have their harnesses intact can't they simply be put in the car with their corrisponding computer in the trunk.

I'd look at the Pelican Parts article for info on that. The exhaust may have to be modified as the 3.4 has to be mounted lower to fit in the Boxster's engine compartment.

Why go to a $600 dollar bearing verus a $100 bearing? Someone said that the U.K. has a bearing replacement. Doesn't porsche have a replacement by now. Keep the oil clean and don't run a sealed bearing! Seems thats the real issue!

Nobody knows exactly what causes these things to fail - the fact that it's a sealed bearing in the first place seems to be the problem. I'm sure letting the bearing get some fresh motor oil would help but the bearing isn't designed to be run on motor oil, it's designed to be run on the bearing grease that's supposed to be sealed inside it.

The $600 (in dual row) LN Engineering bearing uses ceramic balls which are several times more durable than metal ones. It also includes a new flange. The $100 or so kits just include what is for the most part the same bearing that's already in the car. It's up to you which one you want to go with, but I would probably go with the LN bearing. Why cheap out on something so important?

Also for those of you that know, how do you like breaking a 325 lb torgue when you remove the driveshaft. I will try that tonight. Cheater pipe and probably will break my breaker bar. Will except any help but don't like making a mistake when I spend this kind of money. (by the way I spent $2500 on this car so I am not the one that got hurt.)

Ha, I had the same issue when doing my CV boots. The outer bolt on both axles was so seized, I stuck a big pipe on my breaker bar and it started to bend the bar. Looks like you need a really solid breaker bar like a Snap On or similar to get those things off.

Also one more thing. I'am I the only one on this porsche forum that thinks the boxster is more fun to drive than a carrera! Thanks for your help.

I have yet to drive a 996 but I can't imagine it being much more fun ;)

Edited September 14, 2010 by Dr.Strangepork

[txhokie4life]

This link provides a lot of info:

http://www.pelicanpa...Engine_Swap.htm

Swapping out a 2.5 blown up motor (34,000 miles) from 99 boxster with 5 spd. Lots of questions. easiest swap would be another 2.5 and would it matter if auto or 5 speed?

The only issue I would see arising from using an automatic-based engine with a manual transmission would be if the crankshaft snouts are different on the flywheel side - manual transmission crankshafts usually have provisions for a pilot bearing. An automatic may have some different sort of setup to allow a torque converter to be installed. I don't know whether the cranks are different on Boxster motors offhand, but I'm sure someone with more knowledge will chime in.

Not an expert -- but partnering with one that is getting there

We just used the old manual flywheel on the AT transmission

There is a coolant hose that runs back from lower driver side to the AT, doesn't exist on the manual.

Just swap out the pipe housing there.

Lots of people are going to carrera 3.4 but items have to be changed around because rear engine becoming mid engine and also the exhaust has to be changed out, I believe? and are their other major costs involved. What is wrong with going to boxster 2000 to 2001 either 2.7 or S motor. Isn't that an easier swap. When the motors are swapped and they all have their harnesses intact can't they simply be put in the car with their corrisponding computer in the trunk.

I'd look at the Pelican Parts article for info on that. The exhaust may have to be modified as the 3.4 has to be mounted lower to fit in the Boxster's engine compartment.

Why go to a $600 dollar bearing verus a $100 bearing? Someone said that the U.K. has a bearing replacement. Doesn't porsche have a replacement by now. Keep the oil clean and don't run a sealed bearing! Seems thats the real issue!

Nobody knows exactly what causes these things to fail - the fact that it's a sealed bearing in the first place seems to be the problem. I'm sure letting the bearing get some fresh motor oil would help but the bearing isn't designed to be run on motor oil, it's designed to be run on the bearing grease that's supposed to be sealed inside it.

The $600 (in dual row) LN Engineering bearing uses ceramic balls which are several times more durable than metal ones. It also includes a new flange. The $100 or so kits just include what is for the most part the same bearing that's already in the car. It's up to you which one you want to go with, but I would probably go with the LN bearing. Why cheap out on something so important?

My take is you are going to spend 5-10K doing an engine swap -- why worry over $500.

Also for those of you that know, how do you like breaking a 325 lb torgue when you remove the driveshaft. I will try that tonight. Cheater pipe and probably will break my breaker bar. Will except any help but don't like making a mistake when I spend this kind of money. (by the way I spent $2500 on this car so I am not the one that got hurt.)

Ha, I had the same issue when doing my CV boots. The outer bolt on both axles was so seized, I stuck a big pipe on my breaker bar and it started to bend the bar. Looks like you need a really solid breaker bar like a Snap On or similar to get those things off.

Use an impact pin to loosen that nut and some loosening agent.

If you are not careful you could either shatter the nut -- or ruin the axle.

Also one more thing. I'am I the only one on this porsche forum that thinks the boxster is more fun to drive than a carrera! Thanks for your help.

I have yet to drive a 996 but I can't imagine it being much more fun ;)

Do you know the failure mode of the original 2.5? Depending on what went you can probably get it rebuilt.

Mike

[infocusf8]

Your '99 2.5L uses a fly by wire fuel intake system that was changed to an electronic fuel delivery system I believe in 2000. If you purchase anything but a 2.5L check to see what system the motor uses as the electronic system will require an extra expense to purchase and will require a DME reprogram. The DME reprogram seems to vary in cost from $300-800 depending on who does it. I've also heard that your instrument cluster will not work properly with the electronic fuel delivery so you will probably have to change it out and most definitely if you go from a manual to Tiptronic or vice versa as the Tip cluster has the gear selected LED column on it. I changed my OEM IMS out to the LN ceramic and agree that spending the extra money on it is a wise investment as it seems to be the most common cause of engine failure for the Boxster motors.

Edited September 14, 2010 by infocusf8

[Loren]

Your '99 2.5L uses a fly by wire fuel intake system that was changed to an electronic fuel delivery system I believe in 2000. If you purchase anything but a 2.5L check to see what system the motor uses as the electronic system will require an extra expense to purchase and will require a DME reprogram. The DME reprogram seems to vary in cost from $300-800 depending on who does it. I've also heard that your instrument cluster will not work properly with the electronic fuel delivery so you will probably have to change it out and most definitely if you go from a manual to Tiptronic or vice versa as the Tip cluster has the gear selected LED column on it. I changed my OEM IMS out to the LN ceramic and agree that spending the extra money on it is a wise investment as it seems to be the most common cause of engine failure for the Boxster motors.

Not quite correct - MY99 and older use conventional cable operated throttle and MY2000 and newer all use eGas (also know a drive by wire). eGas is an electronic solution where the signal is sent via an electrical wire as opposed to cable where the throttle is controlled mechanically by the cable.

You are correct that if he goes with a larger/newer engine he will need either modification or a newer DME.

[infocusf8]

Your '99 2.5L uses a fly by wire fuel intake system that was changed to an electronic fuel delivery system I believe in 2000. If you purchase anything but a 2.5L check to see what system the motor uses as the electronic system will require an extra expense to purchase and will require a DME reprogram. The DME reprogram seems to vary in cost from $300-800 depending on who does it. I've also heard that your instrument cluster will not work properly with the electronic fuel delivery so you will probably have to change it out and most definitely if you go from a manual to Tiptronic or vice versa as the Tip cluster has the gear selected LED column on it. I changed my OEM IMS out to the LN ceramic and agree that spending the extra money on it is a wise investment as it seems to be the most common cause of engine failure for the Boxster motors.

Not quite correct - MY99 and older use conventional cable operated throttle and MY2000 and newer all use eGas (also know a drive by wire). eGas is an electronic solution where the signal is sent via an electrical wire as opposed to cable where the throttle is controlled mechanically by the cable.

You are correct that if he goes with a larger/newer engine he will need either modification or a newer DME.

Fly by wire is a cable.

[Loren]

fly·-by-wire (flī′bī wīr′)adjective

designating or of a control system for an airplane or spacecraft, in which the controls are actuated by electrical impulses, as from a computer

[Bladecutter]

Fly by wire is a cable.

You are very wrong.

Drive by Wire, means that the throttle cable that runs between the accelerator pedal and the throttle body has been replaced with a sensor on the accelerator pedal that detects how much demand there is from the driver, which runs by wires to the ECU of the car, than then sends an electrical signal to the butterfly motor on the throttle body (again, via wires) to actually open or close the butterfly, and a throttle position sensor mounted on the throttle body that tells the ECU where the butterfly is in relation to 0% or 100% positions.

There is no direct connection between the accelerator pedal and the throttle body on a Drive by Wire system.

97, 98, and 99 Boxsters had throttle cables.

All Boxsters from 2000 on are Drive by Wire systems.

BC.

[infocusf8]

I stand corrected for using the wrong terminology. My intent was to describe the cable system that controls the fuel system in pre 2000 Boxsters and not the electronic system that replaced it after that.

This article explains what is involved in engine swapping.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap/11-ENGINE-911_Engine_Swap.htm

Edited September 18, 2010 by infocusf8