Gears Sticking

[Skip]

1984 ROW 911. Periodically, when driving (normally slower speeds - 2nd and 3rd gear), I depress the clutch pedal but have a difficult time pulling shifter out of gear. Then if it does release, it's associated with a large clunk in the transmission. Doesn't happen all the time, but concerned about clutch or transmission issue. Have replaced the transmission fluid twice now, with no change in issue. Could this be a signal for a new clutch assembly or perhaps the external clutch release mechanism?

Thoughts? Thanks

[Loren]

Normally the clutch pedal gets firmer (harder to push down) when the clutch disc is worn out.

I would also consider adjusting the clutch and checking to see that the linkage under the car at the transmission is not bent or damaged.

Edited August 19, 2010 by Loren
corrected bleeding to adjusting (I knew what I meant - but didn't type it -- senior moment?)

[wvicary]

I think 1984 had a clutch cable so I would check that the cable is adjusted correctly. You also need to check the pedal height and release brng lever stop adjustment. They can cause the clutch disc to drag when things heat up and not fully disengage.

[Skip]

Thanks to both. I'll check that this weekend. I hope it's an adjustment issue vice clutch or synchro mesh. Will advise what I find.

[Skip]

Finally managed to get some time to reply. I purchased the 1.0 and 1.2 mm feeler guages in order to get the right tolerances identified in my Bentley manual and was able to adjust the cable quite significantly. Also replaced the clutch cable rubber boot which was torn (required ordering and then a second readjustment, but GTG).

(1) There is a dramatic reduction in grinding and sticking coming out of gears, but some still remains. Could this still now be an indication of syncrho mesh problems?

(2) My local dealership stated that if I brought just the transmission in over the coming winter they could likely do an after market repair, but could give me any idea on cost "until he saw it". Does anyone know what type of cost this could add up to?

Thanks

Skip

[Skip]

Just as a follow on to previous posts. I have recently dropped the engine and separated the transmission from the flywheel end. Hmmm, well the drive plate is worn (but not beyond use apparently), but the flywheel is blue with hot spots across it and the inside of the transmission housing (concave area where the release fork and shaft sit), are covered in oil and sludge as is the upper part of the engine. What I'm told by a mechanic friend is that it is quite possible that the oil seeped in behind the drive plate and onto the flywheel and burned the two pieces with continued leak and use. Recommendation was to try to use some steel wool in case it was just surface, but no, it doesn't come off and there are what appear to be hairline cracks in some areas. Solution - get a new flywheel. Getting a new Sachs Super clutch at the same time to eliminate any old parts issues. Also in the process of replacing all the valve cover seals, breather cover, flywheel etc etc, to try to avoid the problem down the road. I had already repaired the transmission fork cover leak some time ago, but couldn't clean the area out until I dropped the engine. Hope this helps others. Am enclosing a copy of two pictures for reference (the old flywheel and the transmission housing side).

Cheers.

[Skip]

Final comment: With the replacement of both the flywheel and clutch (and after correcting an installation error), the car is up and running, with a much better feel on the clutch - does not appear to be sticking any longer, and with the replacement of most of the external oil seals, isn't leaking either, so hope to avoid future oil / burn on the flywheel.