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Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi. on my 2000 996 C2 tiptronic: I was driving out of my driveway, went two blocks and the car stalled. Every time I try to restart, the starter turns and I may get a few sputters (RPM meter goes up a little), but then it stalls right away. i have half a tank of gas. I don't have any Prosche specific diag tools but my normal OBD2 reader shows absolutely no fault codes. Any ideas on the next steps to diagnose? I guess it could be the fuel pump or fuel pump relay (just a guess)? I checked the fuel pump fuse and it's fine. Any help is appreciated.

Posted

battery is good. I replaced the fuel filter about a year ago. difficult to see if ABS or PCM lights are on cause the car doesn't really start. but I wouldn't think that could cause the car not to start.

Posted

Also: when I put the key in the ignition I do hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds. If I remove the fule pump relay and jumper two pins I hear the fuel pump continue to run. So now I'm totally confused and have no clue what could be causing this.

Posted

I just checked the fuel pump relay and it works fine, 12 volts is getting to it and it closes pins 30 and 87 when ignition key is turned. Now, after I jump pins 30 and 87, and I let the fuel pump runs for a few seconds (car still doesn't start), then I stop it and remove the gas cap and I don't hear that hissing sound. Should I? I'm confused cause the fuel pump *sounds* like it's running fine.

Posted

any ideas on what could cause this? One thing I didn't try yet was to remove the fuel return line from the fuel rail, run the pump, and see if fuel spirts out at a reasonable rate. But since I can actually hear the fuel pump running, does anyone still think this is fuel related. My standard OBD2 reader says no fault codes, but I'm thinking of buying durametric cause I can't believe something like this wouldn't register any codes.

Posted

Ok. I bought the Durametric tool and there are still No fault codes in the DME, but the car doesn't start (that's just not fair). There are some codes in the "Alarm" section though. I guess the next thing I'll check is the fuel pump. But if it was the fuel pump, there wouldn't be any codes?

Posted

Ok. I removed the high pressure line from the fuel pump and jumper relay pins to make it run and pumps fuel nicely. So, now, the only way it can be a fuel problem is if the filter is clogged (changed less than a year ago) or a line is clogged cause I didn't check the fuel rail in the engine bay cause I dont see how to detach it without removing the coolant res.

Durametric came and there are still no DME, Tip, or ABS fault codes. The only fault codes I do get are these, in the Alarm section:

Description:Interior sensor faulty

Repair Infomation:

Repair Infomation:Status: not present

Repair Infomation:Frequency counter: 2

DTC Count = 4

Fault Number:60

Description:Central locking limit position

Repair Infomation:Lock not reached

Repair Infomation:Status: not present

Repair Infomation:Frequency counter: 4

DTC Count = 4

Fault Number:58

Description:Tank servo motor not energized

Repair Infomation:despite relay activation

Repair Infomation:Status: not present

Repair Infomation:Frequency counter: 3

DTC Count = 4

Fault Number:33

Description:Interior sensor faulty

Repair Infomation:

Repair Infomation:Status: not present

Repair Infomation:Frequency counter: 9

What do those mean?

Posted

Ok. those alarm codes are bogus cause they say "Not present". I just removed the hose from the fuel filter (going to the engine) and, when the pump runs, a nice amount of fuel comes out of the filter. So what does one do when the car doesn't start, it isn't a fuel problem (though I still didn't chk if fuel flows all the way to the fuel rails) and there are no fault codes?

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Some posts I saw before with similar symptoms traced to a faulty evap valve. The intake is pulling vacuum on the gas tank via the valve then it stals the engine.

Posted

Many of these type issues (and subsequent strange codes) are a function of a less than optimum battery. Porsche are very sensitive to battery conditions. Having the electrical equipment working with the battery will NOT insure it will start the car. Even some batteries that test good do not supply enough juice to start the car.

Posted

Some posts I saw before with similar symptoms traced to a faulty evap valve. The intake is pulling vacuum on the gas tank via the valve then it stals the engine.

Try it without the gas cap on to rule Evap Valve caused tank vacuum..I would suspect the ignition sensor, or maybe valve timing.

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