Check engine light

[shubchs]

My search turns up so many items on this subject, but as I can't get to a shop to get a read out, I have one question that may help me: Today after doing a short run at 88 degrees ambient temp (hot for MN!), and with the engine (12,000 odometer miles) running just fine I decided to turn on the AC, somewhat later, maybe 15 minutes or so I noticed the check engine light came on. The gauge creeped up to about 200 degrees, so i began to worry. pulled over and checked the coolant level, which was fine.(doesn't seem to be any oil mixed in) undid the gas cap, but no change in the check engine light, checked the oil it was fine, and didn't feel any water between my fingers. And nothing leaking onto the floor. turned off the AC, just in case, and proceeded to me destination some 3 miles away. After letting the car cooled, down, checked the fluids again, and all were OK. Started the car, and all idiot lights went off with the exception of the check engine light.

I know I need to get to a shop on Monday, to have the fault read out, but in the meantime I am posing the question: If I find and correct the fault, whether or not it be something simple like the gas cap thingy, or low on fluids, would the check light turn off automatically after the correction?

After 9 years of faultless driving, albeit only in the summers, and in the summers at least good long runs monthly, and all services by the "book", this is my first glitch, and I ave fears of oil mixing with water, or vice-versa and all the other major problems that I have been reading about for all these years.....

Any and all comments will be appreciated.

[blitzkrieg]

No. Regardless of vehicle make the check engine light will stay on until it's reset. When the check engine light is on that indicates the computer has a fault code(s) stored.

Most auto parts stores can hook up an ODB reader for you and tell you the fault code and you can research it from there.

If you think it was a fluke and want to reset it, disconnect your negative battery cable for 5 minutes. Beware you will lose all your radio presets and such.

Before you do that, I would find out the code first to be sure.

For the record, a survey was done a few years back and the #1 cause of shop visits for a check engine light was a loose or defective gas cap. That will generally show up as an evaporative emissions system fault.

[judgejon]

get a Durametric..... it will show the fault code and clear the light. good luck....

[shubchs]

Many thanks for the replies. Thankfully none of my horror thoughts came to fruition. My local wrench was able to put his machine on it this morning, and the fault codes were not serious he stated. They were P1128 &P1130, and he said they were oxygen sensor codes, and he thought due to the old gas from the previous season that (although I used STABIL while in hibernation), was the reason. He cleared the codes, filled up the gas tank, and then I went for a good brisk ride (in 90 degree heat & the AC on max), and no repeat Check light! Boy, was I relived! I have read so many horror stories about oil & water mixing, and the inevitable repairs that are a consequence, I was a bit paranoid I guess!

I would like to know exactly what those error codes meant to our digest group, so please would someone (perhaps Loren, old friend) tell me what those codes meant? P1128 and P1130 are thothe ones that came up.

So thanks again for the replies, and I hope this will allay some others of these dreaded fears of ours!

WHEW!!

[flintworks]

11280 and 1130 are oxygen sensing codes and they do not mean there is anything wrong with the oxygen sensors or gas. These codes are most often caused by bad mass air flow sensor.

[fulnek]

Could be also a sign that you katalysator has almost gone :(

Regards,

Adam

[Loren]

Many thanks for the replies. Thankfully none of my horror thoughts came to fruition. My local wrench was able to put his machine on it this morning, and the fault codes were not serious he stated. They were P1128 &P1130, and he said they were oxygen sensor codes, and he thought due to the old gas from the previous season that (although I used STABIL while in hibernation), was the reason. He cleared the codes, filled up the gas tank, and then I went for a good brisk ride (in 90 degree heat & the AC on max), and no repeat Check light! Boy, was I relived! I have read so many horror stories about oil & water mixing, and the inevitable repairs that are a consequence, I was a bit paranoid I guess!

I would like to know exactly what those error codes meant to our digest group, so please would someone (perhaps Loren, old friend) tell me what those codes meant? P1128 and P1130 are thothe ones that came up.

So thanks again for the replies, and I hope this will allay some others of these dreaded fears of ours!

WHEW!!

This information has been posted many many times before here...

It is NOT the O2 sensors or at cats.

P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit

P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit

or

P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 – Below Limit

P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 – Below Limit

Possible causes:

– Incorrect signal from MAF sensor

– Intake air system leaking

– Fuel pressure too low

– Volume supply of fuel pump too low

– Fuel injectors fouled

– Exhaust system leaking