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Recommended Posts

Posted

What do you consider inexpensive? I changed the intake for the K&N 57 series (~$350). They state a gain of ~24HP. I haven't put it on the dyno since. Took me an afternoon to install (level 1 on the DIY difficulty scale)

  • Admin
Posted

What do you consider inexpensive? I changed the intake for the K&N 57 series (~$350). They state a gain of ~24HP. I haven't put it on the dyno since. Took me an afternoon to install (level 1 on the DIY difficulty scale)

Sorry but 24 HP from a different air cleaner? I think Porsche would have thought of that.

Headers, air intake, and a software program might get you that much - but then you are out $2500 or more for less than 30 HP.

Folks you are not going to get much more out of the normally aspirated Porsches without spending thousands of dollars.

If you want a lot more horsepower - trade up to a turbo.

  • Upvote 1
Posted

Loren is right. We all like to think that we can get more power out of our cars (and believe hype) but it's a slippery slope $$$$. A good set of muffters and a a chip flash will make the car more fun to drive though (about $1500.) That being said it won't have 30 more HP..

Just enjoy your car and like Loren said.. Real power increases can only come from the Turbos. So save your money and get one on those next! :clapping:

Posted

What do you consider inexpensive? I changed the intake for the K&N 57 series (~$350). They state a gain of ~24HP. I haven't put it on the dyno since. Took me an afternoon to install (level 1 on the DIY difficulty scale)

Sorry but 24 HP from a different air cleaner? I think Porsche would have thought of that.

I don't personally think it's 24 HP either (as I say, not recently dyno'd) and it's not the cleaner, but the reduction in intake resistance. The V-flow intake states 10-12 gain, even that's a likely a stretch, however, most of the track cars I've seen up close have the V-flow intake and I'm assuming they didn't just do it for looks, I went with the K&N because it was budget-friendly and seemed to have a similar design concept.

Posted

Loren is right. We all like to think that we can get more power out of our cars (and believe hype) but it's a slippery slope $$$$. A good set of muffters and a a chip flash will make the car more fun to drive though (about $1500.) That being said it won't have 30 more HP..

Just enjoy your car and like Loren said.. Real power increases can only come from the Turbos. So save your money and get one on those next! :clapping:

Yes, it is a slippery slope (help! I'm falling! :D ) The only comments I'll make in my defence are:

- Tuning my car is 50-75% of the fun for me.

- I can spend incrementally on mods as I can afford it

- I *love* my car

Posted

The one mod that I really think has made a difference in the performance ( not increase in horsepower or 0-60 speed) is the Sprint Booster. If your P car has e-gas, you may want to invest in a Sprint Booster ( $325). I touted this device before and received back several negative responses, because some (without substanation) THINK it will somehow screw up things. I have had the Sprint Booster on the car for a year now and it runs great. It is placed under the dash in-between the e gas harness and on a DIY scale it is about a 2. It is designed to increase the voltage to the in the e gas system which makes for much more responsive acceleration. It is not floey, and the difference is quite noticeable. PS I do not have any connection with the makers of the Sprint Booster, I just works on my car (04 C4S).

  • Admin
Posted

"The Sprint Booster is a simple amplifier that multiplies the accelerator pedal sensor signal, making the accelerator pedal more sensitive. It does not eliminate any significant delay in throttle response, nor does it greatly improve acceleration figures. It does not change the adaptive throttle control programming of electronic throttle control vehicles. It does change pedal "feel". This change in feel is interpreted by some as improved throttle response, acceleration, and a change in adaptive throttle control programming. Considering what it actually does, it is expensive.

Richard Bipes

September 2007"

SprintBooster.pdf

Why not just press the throttle harder and faster?

Posted

Hi. on my 2000 C2 Tip? I see the muffler pipe bypass in the DIY section but that's proly really loud.

How about a LOX tank with a simple solenoid that only ports the lox into the intake at WOT.

Posted

On the Sprint Booster, I see a lot of explanations on why it doesn't work, however how many of you critics have actually put one on your car to see for yourself? I have, and I can tell you the "placebo" effect that you describe, is real. I have a Tiptronic S transmission and it makes a huge difference in "feel". The car drives much better in 5th on the freeway than it did before. I know it works, and I am really glad I spent the money on it. This is a personal testimonial experienced over the past year.

Posted

Rather than spending money to increase power try looking to improve sensation. I learned back in my daily driver 914 days that you don't need to have 500hp to have a great time. Throttle response, top shelf tires (don't ever skimp on tires), and a bit of exhaust noise will let you have all the fun you should have on the street. Once you truly know that you need more power then a Turbo or GT3 are the next logical step.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Hi. on my 2000 C2 Tip? I see the muffler pipe bypass in the DIY section but that's proly really loud.

An experienced driver once advised me to put my $2,000 in to an instructo and seat time. You know what? He was right. My car is faster now.

:renntech:

  • 2 years later...
Posted

I decided to give the Sprint Booster a try because some of the other "feel" mods I have done (997 Shifter, PSE mufflers) have made the car more fun for me to drive. I can now say the same about the Sprint Booster. In my experience, it makes a significant difference in how the car "feels" when driving it. To me, the car "feels" more responsive and more powerful. I happen to like this "feeling." In my testing, it was not possible to achieve the same "feeling" by mashing the pedal with the Sprint Booster in the off position. The medium acceleration position provides a noticeable "feeling" improvement over stock. I personally preferred the maximum acceleration position, which provides a "feeling" of more torque compared to the smoother medium position.

Installation was a PITA, but not difficult. You have to contort yourself under the dash and work one handed, but it only takes a few minutes to install. I removed the air duct for better visibility and elbow room.

Is it worth $289? In terms of the actual hardware, it seems way overpriced. The profit margin must be huge. On the other hand, I like the way it makes the car "feel" so I am keeping mine.

Posted (edited)

I would echo what Loren said. I recently traded up to a Turbo for this exact reason. Also, as far as software goes, most of it is BS. It will cause you more problems than it's worth. I recently took the "chipped" software off that the previous owner had put on my Turbo. I took it off because it wasn't passing generic OBD2 emissions tests eventhough the PIWIS/Durametric Porsche-specific tools were saying all 5 readyness states were "PASS". After I reflashed to stock it passed just fine. Aka the software had a bug or wasn't tested with the most recent version of the company's software that does the emissions testing in my state. After taking the software off my Turbo I can't tell a single bit of difference in the power. Over 4K RPMs in the car, with the software or without it, will make your heart stop. I also had Gbox (one of the most -- if not the most -- reputable Porsche gearbox shops in the world) rebuild my gearbox. The owner, Stan, told me shortshifters (non-factory I would assume he meant) are not a good idea on these gearboxes and often lead to increased wear and internal damage. He does not recommend them.

Bottom line, IMHO, stick to stock configurations and OEM parts. Porsche knows what they are doing and if you mod the car you're deviating from their known and tested configuration. Maybe it will be fine, maybe it won't. Often times the benefits are little to none, at the expense of potentially causing yourself problems like what I described above.

Edited by Silver_TT
Posted

The M96 has a little modding room, but not much. And, there is an "economy" of drivability. I'm pretty much all in on my 2000 Boxster S: headers, 100 cell cats, Borla muffler, 75mm 996 Throttlebody, plenum splitter thing (Pedro's Techno Torque), cleaned up intake tubing, cone air filter in a sealed box outside of the engine compartment, under drive pulley, Softronic reflash, LW flywheel, stage 3+ clutch. The car pulled 244 HP on a Dyno. That comes to around 280ish FWHP, so a gain of about 35HP. The car is also pretty light- down to 2700#. It will flat out stomp my stock 99 C4 and is an autocross winner, but it is downright annoying to drive around on a daily basis. The C4 is a pleasure to drive daily. I arrive at my destination with my hearing and kidneys intact and I don't have to be too careful about getting the rev's up to keep from stalling it. I had to give up a lot on the Boxster to get an edge... Thus the C4 purchase!

Posted

Put a better nut behind the wheel.:)

Become a PCA Member and do DE's and/or Autocross events. Imagine if you can drive even 1/10th better??

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