Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi, Does anyone have experience working with the rear wheel bearings on 996? I would much appreciate any insight that I can get before jumping into this project.

I have just replaced the front wheel bearings that were causing grinding noise (much like road noise). Now it is much better but I still hear some from the rear. This leads me to think that I need to replace the rear wheel bearings (I've also been annoyed by occasional "clunking" noise too). According to the official service manual, the procedure seems similar except that it now talks about hub extractor with a big circular plate with five bolts that go into the rug nut holes on the disc/hub. It also talks about drive shaft removal etc. which I didn't have to deal with before.

Because I had a very challenging front wheel bearings I'm getting a bit apprehensive. Appreciate any experience you can share with me.

Thank you in advance,

Posted

This was done to my car years ago under the original warranty. The dealer said they had to remove the wheel carrier and press the bearing out. I think the total labor and materials was close to $2,000, but it was under warranty. I will try to find the invoice.

Posted

Found it. The labor breakdown was as follows; This was for both sides

Rear Wheel Bearing R&R 1.4 hrs

Wheel bearing housing R&R 2.9 hrs

Rear Brakes R&R 2.3 hrs.

Bleed Brakes .6 hours

Front & Rear check alignment 1 hr.

Front & rear Adjust alignment .9 hrs.

Parts 2 bearings 999.053.050.00, 2 nuts 999.500.092.00

So a total of 9.1 hrs "shop time" at the 2003 labor rate of $119/hr. I think the dealer is $169/hr. now.

So not $2,000, but pretty expensive, loved that warranty.

Posted

Found it. The labor breakdown was as follows; This was for both sides

Rear Wheel Bearing R&R 1.4 hrs

Wheel bearing housing R&R 2.9 hrs

Rear Brakes R&R 2.3 hrs.

Bleed Brakes .6 hours

Front & Rear check alignment 1 hr.

Front & rear Adjust alignment .9 hrs.

Parts 2 bearings 999.053.050.00, 2 nuts 999.500.092.00

So a total of 9.1 hrs "shop time" at the 2003 labor rate of $119/hr. I think the dealer is $169/hr. now.

So not $2,000, but pretty expensive, loved that warranty.

The hours for R&R sounds about similar to what I spent on the front bearings. May be it is not much different after all. Thank you very much.

Posted (edited)

I would expect to pay about 5 hours for one rear wheel bearing. They are quite a bit more difficult as the parking brake mechanism has to be removed, which is quite a PITA. The entire wheel carrier is removed and the bearing is pressed out. If the repair is done as per the factory manual, no alignment is technically necessary as none of the eccentric bolts are touched. Also the brake lines do not need to be opened so I wouldn't pay for a brake system bleed either.

Edited by PTEC
Posted

I would expect to pay about 5 hours for one rear wheel bearing. They are quite a bit more difficult as the parking brake mechanism has to be removed, which is quite a PITA. The entire wheel carrier is removed and the bearing is pressed out. If the repair is done as per the factory manual, no alignment is technically necessary as none of the eccentric bolts are touched. Also the brake lines do not need to be opened so I wouldn't pay for a brake system bleed either.

Thanks PTEC. I read that you have to release the cable in the center console for the parking brake mechanism. Is there more to it that you know?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.