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Carbon fiber


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I was just wondering how hard it is to make your own carbon fiber bits? Does anyone here work with the stuff? Is it like fiberglass?

One of my hobbies is making knives; Carbon fiber is a very common material for handle slabs on folders.

Carbon fiber comes in sheets that can be machined using cutting, grinding and polishing tools. It can also be heat formed. It isn't particularly difficult to work with - and for that matter, it's not particularly expensive. Getting the desired results can take practice, and the limitations of your tools may effect you output.

Before you play with this stuff, it's important to understand that it can be VERY hazardous. A dusk mask isn't going to cut it - you NEED to wear a respirator. when CF is machined, it puts a lot of carbon dust in the air. This can be extremely bad for your lungs. Don't even chance it. Get a respirator.

Also, wear good eye protection. Not just goggles that keep flying objects from hitting you, but go for the ones that fit against your face to keep most of the dust out.

There is a lot of good info on working CF on the web. If you decide to give it a go, let me know and I'll give you some tips and help you find places to get it cheap.

And if you try it, post a picture of what you make!

Good luck.

- Pete

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A couple of places to go are:

DragonPlate (look at the Carbon Fiber Laminate)

Koval Knives (for small pieces; navigate to catalog/handle materials)

Texas Knifemakers Supply (also for small pieces; navigate to Online Store/Carbon Fiber Sheet)

Dragon Plate sells larger sheets (about 2'x 2'), and as thin as 1/16" which should be thick enough for things like dash parts. I would experiment with a small piece before buying a big piece so as to ensure that it is the appropriate dimension for your application (for knives, folders typically use 1/8" on each side, fixed blade 1/4", if that helps).

Dragon Plate also has a flexible, adhesive-backed carbon fiber veneer that can be cut with sheers, and sounds like it could be mounted over existing (moderately) curved parts. I haven't ever used it, but if you try it, I'd be interested to hear how it turns out.

Have fun!

- Pete

Edited by doughep
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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
I was just wondering how hard it is to make your own carbon fiber bits? Does anyone here work with the stuff? Is it like fiberglass?

I indirectly work with this stuff, being in Aerospace. It is similar to fiberglass in concept, with several layers of fabric material bonded together to form a shape. But the major difference is heat - read on...

The issue is that to replicate any interior piece i.e. obtain a contoured shape with a good looking surface, you will need to heat form.

Heat form is normally done by drapping the carbon fabric over or in a tool, which replicates the surface you want e.g. the dashboard switchplate. Unfortunately you could not use plastic (original switchplate) as it will deform at the temperature required. So first step would be to create a tool. Presuming you have this tool, then you need to lay several layers of the carbon fabric in the tool, as necessary to obtain the thickness and strength required. Then place the whole part and tool combo in an oven (cook at around 1400F) with some type of bag to create pressure on the part as it lies in the tool. This spreads the resin contained in the carbon fabric, throughout the part and bonds the layers together and voila carbon fiber replacement parts...

That's why it's expensive!

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  • 1 month later...

It works just like fiberglass, no over required. Pick up a book from Amazon. I haven't worked with it yet but did the research. Apparently the major difference is that carbon is more expensive that fiberglass (about 2x) and doesn't "wet out" as easily...i.e. it takes more work to get a quality part.

Vacuum bagging is the best way to go if you care to spend the time and buy the equipment but you can also just hand-lay it.

If you need aerospace quality (reliable, repeatable, structural properties) then definitely vac bag. Heat is not required unless you are using exotic epoxy. Two-part epoxies all exo-thermo (heat on their own) anyway, just be at 70 or so (not outside on a cold day).

You can use plaster as the mold material or build up a silicone or rubber mold if you prefer. This is a good site for materials...

http://www.shopmaninc.com/products.html

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  • 3 years later...

I have tried it, not too bad...start with flat pieces to get use to it..I'll post a site that has great reading. Sunset or Pelican sells replacement parts that you will do super cheap. You are going to do an overlay on the parts. It cost too much to make a full carbon part and too hard.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I have tried it, not too bad...start with flat pieces to get use to it..I'll post a site that has great reading. Sunset or Pelican sells replacement parts that you will do super cheap. You are going to do an overlay on the parts. It cost too much to make a full carbon part and too hard.

So did you vacuum bag it when you did the overlay? How did you get a nice, smooth surface on the outside when you were done, did you have to clear coat paint or use additional epoxy layers on the outer surface to get it smooth?

Kirk

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I started with a flat piece, the fuse box cover. No bagging if doing flat pieces. If you are doing curves, I would bag it. Simple UV clear coat spray works great and makes it look deep. I will add a link where I read alot of great info later this week when I am at a different comp. The key to the whole thing is to take your time. The cost for the carbon Fiber was pretty cheap for the amount that you get.

I have tried it, not too bad...start with flat pieces to get use to it..I'll post a site that has great reading. Sunset or Pelican sells replacement parts that you will do super cheap. You are going to do an overlay on the parts. It cost too much to make a full carbon part and too hard.

So did you vacuum bag it when you did the overlay? How did you get a nice, smooth surface on the outside when you were done, did you have to clear coat paint or use additional epoxy layers on the outer surface to get it smooth?

Kirk

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