Barbqued Front Rotors?

[Topless]

Ok veteran Boxster track guys we need your input. This weekend my brother and I completed a two day time trial at Buttonwillow in unusually cool conditions and both our front rotors are really warped when hot. My car has Balo rotors and his are OEM but they are equally thrashed. I doubt they could be turned out because the serious judder only happens after lap 2 (hot). It gets so bad that in heavy braking zones I can barely hang on to the car. Any good solutions for better rotors/better heat management for the fronts? GT3 ducts? Dryer ducting? Evaporative mist system? We are running BSX cars that are just class legal weight (2950) with pagid yellow pads and SRF fluid. No noticable fade issues but really rough rotor judder under heavy braking as the session progresses. We do basic brake cool down lap and no E-brakes on track days. Ideas?

Edited May 24, 2010 by Topless

[stephen wilson]

Just a quick thought, do you roll the car a bit in the paddock while the brakes cool down? I've heard that the pads sitting in one spot, even after a cool-down lap, can cause warping.

[Topless]

Just a quick thought, do you roll the car a bit in the paddock while the brakes cool down? I've heard that the pads sitting in one spot, even after a cool-down lap, can cause warping.

Interesting. I have never done this and I don't know anyone who does but it is possible that certain pads retain enough heat to cause damage even while the brakes are disengaged.

[stephen wilson]

I've never raced a production-based car, so I don't have any first hand experience. It may be the combination of heating from the caliper/pads, and the more rapid cooling of the rest of the rotor that is exposed to the air. My Formula Ford has never had any brake-related problems, being so light and low horsepower, but the pad will leave a "imprint" mark on the rotor if left sitting while very hot. How worn are the rotors? If they are getting thin they will warp easier.

[Sami951]

Hi

Rolling the car in the paddock is good advice. Also GT3 ducts are very inexpensive thing to add.

Very important is also to brake HARD when braking, and then release when done... (sorry if this is obvious, it just seems like a common place to make mistakes). Feathering the brake pedal and braking lightly but for long time really builds up a lot of heat.

I have not researched but maybe it would be quite straight forward to upgrade to 986 S / 996 front brakes. That would also allow to use performance friction brake rotor (they only have it available in 996 carrera front fitment, which is the same as 986 S .. nothing for base boxster unfortunately) which is very good.

Cheers, Sami

[Topless]

Hi

Rolling the car in the paddock is good advice. Also GT3 ducts are very inexpensive thing to add.

Very important is also to brake HARD when braking, and then release when done... (sorry if this is obvious, it just seems like a common place to make mistakes). Feathering the brake pedal and braking lightly but for long time really builds up a lot of heat.

I have not researched but maybe it would be quite straight forward to upgrade to 986 S / 996 front brakes. That would also allow to use performance friction brake rotor (they only have it available in 996 carrera front fitment, which is the same as 986 S .. nothing for base boxster unfortunately) which is very good.

Cheers, Sami

Thanks for the input guys. New pads, rotors, and GT3 ducts are on, and all is well. Two track days and the brakes feel great. Changing Brake components is not an option in SPEC racing so I changed my methods. My new cooldown method is to really granny drive the final cool down lap and take a short drive down paddock road for extra cooling time. So far so good.