1999 Boxster Cel 325 Code

[wooz797]

I just aquired a 1999 boxster 2.5 5spd. Check engine flashes and eventually stays on constantly. I used the piwis tester and pulled codes 66,67,68

53,54,55 and finally a code 325. Code 325 mentions exhasut and intake cams allocation incorrect bank 2, anybody have any insights into what I may be facing. I would love it to simply be a sensor issue but im worried about a mechanical issue with the timing. Thanks for any insights or checks i should make. vehicle runs well but missfires at idle.

[txhokie4life]

Not that I want you to run the engine -- but knowing the following can be useful

was the engine running?

Did it idle ok?

Did you have any issues at higher RPM.

I'm not familiar with the PIWIS codes -- I only know the OBD-II and Duramatic codes.

You could have a cam position sensor issue. One could swap the sensors from side to side

and test -- but I get nervous running the engine when it is potentially out of time.

Unless you are mechanically adept -- I would look for an independent and see

if the engine is timed correctly. they can do this by looking at the cam shaft alignments

at least for the exhaust cams.

Mike

[wooz797]

the vehicle idles but fluctuates about 200-300 rpm. higher rpms it seems ok but thats without a load. i havent taken the car for a test drive yet. Im hesitant to drive it. The 325 code translates to a p1324 generic obd code. I do know the engine has never been apart but with 160k miles thats a lot for the m96. I plan to check mechanical timing on bank 2 next week when my lift is open. I think i will swap the cam sensors like you suggested

thanks

[txhokie4life]

Yeah be careful with that --

You might be fine at idle (maybe?) but if you hit the RPMs to do the timing advance it might put you to far out

and cause some damage.

I've seen chain tensioner guides that break off, and this could cause a change in the relative cam angles.

If you have a duramatic -- it will report how far off you are.

It's also possible you jumped a tooth on one of the chains. Doesn't happen often, but is possible.

sounds like you know enough to come out okay -- just might have to be patient and check all the possible scenarios.

mike

[wvicary]

A failing IMS brng can also throw codes for camshaft timing but often has loads of noise also.

[Wayne R. Dempsey]

Blinking check engine lamp = don't run the engine, as it could damage the catalytic converters.

-Wayne

[wooz797]

well we were slow today so I decided to pull the cam case off and look at the tensioner. Sure enough the slider one the external tensioning element is gone. The chain was riding on the metal pad on the tensioner, Im glad i didnt run it after getting the codes to show. I think this is what txhokie was mentioning thanks a ton. I have a pic ill try to post.

[txhokie4life]

Bingo - glad you figured it out -- cheap $20 worth of plastic I think -- if they are that much.

How hard was it to do with the engine in the car? I've always had it on an engine stand when

I am doing this kind of work

thanks,

Mike

[wooz797]

It was really pretty easy, compared to a later m97 (put a cam in one 2 weeks ago), I didnt even remove the wheel, no clearance issues, you just have to be careful with the exhaust lifters they like to slide out and bounce. Im debating whether to replace those pads or get a new tensioner element its pretty chewed up.

[txhokie4life]

I pulled these off a 50K mile 2.5L.

m

[wooz797]

darn, they dont have much life to them. Im wondering where my missing one went. I see no debris on the head, i was going to check the sump pan, anywhere else the debris could get?

Edited May 25, 2010 by wooz797

[Wayne R. Dempsey]

darn, they dont have much life to them. Im wondering where my missing one went. I see no debris on the head, i was going to check the sump pan, anywhere else the debris could get?

Again, I think this is a big function of oil changes as well. Frequent oil changes (3000-5000 miles) can help a lot...

-Wayne

[wooz797]

so i got the car back together on friday and drove it home. cel came on and still have the missfire codes for bank 2.

The missfires only occur at idle, I cleared the codes and was able to drive 5 or so miles without having to idle and no cel. As soon as it idles i begin to get missfires. I thought maybe a vacuum leak near bank 2, since those generally are overcome off idle, then i decided to look at the coolant -- full of oil. SO im thinking i need to throw a head gasket on that bank. Not being entirely familiar with porsche is there any other place i should check for example the radiator on traditional vehicles generally have a oil cooler built in. Any thoughts and insight would be appreciated. should i just pull the motor and refresh it (160k miles)

[Wayne R. Dempsey]

Oil + coolant could be head gasket, but it also could be a variety of other problems, including the D-chunk problem. I wrote a tech article on this and other issues you may encounter here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/13-ENGINE-Common_Engine_Failures/13-ENGINE-Common_Engine_Failures.htm

I would indeed probably recommend tearing it down and taking a look at what you have. I also have an article on teardowns too: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/Disc162/BoxsterTech-162.htm

Hope this helps,

Wayne

[wooz797]

I think i have my missfires cured, I had the plunger beneath the variocam solenoid upside down (never should have removed it firstly). Removed the Oil cooler and pressure tested it, I saw no bubbles from oil side. But i figured at temp it may be different and leak, so ive ordered one anyway.

Went ahead and pulled the head off bank 2 still no water in the oil but the water passages were very milky, pulled off AOS and it was full of oily milky stuff. So now Im just waiting on parts. still no smoking gun as far as the oil mixing with water. Any ideas on the AOS getting so milky with water oil mix yet the oil sump is pure oil? thanks guys