Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All

I have a 1997 Boxster 2.5 man trans. RoW.

I have the Cyl. head off bank 1 and the chain to this bank has moved from the camshaft gear.

The question is how do I find when piston number 1 is on the compression stroke and not on the exhaust stroke without taking the cam cover off bank 2.

Would I check for piston #4 coming on to compression or is it piston #6 coming on to compression that would indicate that piston #1 is on the exhaust stroke which would line up on the crankshaft pulley.

I hope I have been able to explain clearly?

Many thanks Lionel

  • Moderators
Posted (edited)

Unfortunately, this is not going to be as simple as you think. Because of the twin cam design and variable valve timing Porsche used, you need to index the cams to each other as well simultaneously the crankshaft position (what the factory calls “allocating” the cams). In order to do this correctly, and not destroy your engine (a real possibility if you get it wrong), you need some special fixtures set and then lock the cams in the correct positions in relation to the crank:

stp_260.jpg

Pic02.jpg

Pic03.jpg

This can be done with the engine in the car and the cam covers on, by pulling the green plugs out of the cam covers the attaching the fixture, or it can be done with the cover off as well:

Pic22.jpg

While the process is not difficult with the correct tools, it is time consuming; so you need to do some research, or obtain access to the 13 volume set of the OEM manuals for the procedures.......

Edited by JFP in PA
Posted

That indeed is a neat timing tool kit, but not all of the tools in there are 100% necessary unless you're a shop You can get away without some of them. I'll go over the tools here:

P255 holds the cams from falling out when you take out the cam covers, but you can also use P253 to do the same thing.

P256 holds the cams in place after you release the two cam holders that hold them in place - useful if you're working on the engine with it still in the car, but if the engine is on the stand, simply rotate the engine upwards to prevent them from falling out

P258 crankshaft lock. Simply use a 5/16th drill bit and save yourself some money

P253 is the only tool that I think is pretty necessary, but you can also index the camshafts at the end by their markings. I don't have a good photo of this up on the web right now, but I will in the next week or so...

JFP is right - the process is not very difficult (not like an air cooled 911 motor), but the potential to mess things up is high if you don't have the proper tools or knowledge.

-Wayne

Posted

That indeed is a neat timing tool kit, but not all of the tools in there are 100% necessary unless you're a shop You can get away without some of them. I'll go over the tools here:

P255 holds the cams from falling out when you take out the cam covers, but you can also use P253 to do the same thing.

P256 holds the cams in place after you release the two cam holders that hold them in place - useful if you're working on the engine with it still in the car, but if the engine is on the stand, simply rotate the engine upwards to prevent them from falling out

P258 crankshaft lock. Simply use a 5/16th drill bit and save yourself some money

P253 is the only tool that I think is pretty necessary, but you can also index the camshafts at the end by their markings. I don't have a good photo of this up on the web right now, but I will in the next week or so...

JFP is right - the process is not very difficult (not like an air cooled 911 motor), but the potential to mess things up is high if you don't have the proper tools or knowledge.

-Wayne

HI.

Thanks JFP and Wayne

Thats very useful stuff I will remove the green plug and cautiously try and make progress.

Thanks very much

Regards Lionel

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.