Door Won't Open From Inside (Sometimes)

[txhokie4life]

I figured this had to come up before -- but a search revealed nothing.

At first I thought the handle mechanism was broke. Got it back my 99 Boxster back from the body shop

and when I got home -- I couldn't open the door -- had to roll the window down reach around and open from outside.

Tried it many times, no luck.

Today I get in -- and it worked... hmmm.

Tried it a few times - still worked. Drove and when I got to my destination -- couldn't open it.

But when I rolled the window up and pulled on the handle, the window lowered - but the door wouldn't open.

I played around with the window level -- and sometimes I could open it and sometimes I couldn't.

Played with the key setting too -- not sure I could figure out a repeatable pattern.

I'm thinking that when the body shop worked on somethings -- they pulled the battery -- and somehow

the door lost its mind?

I didn't have the opportunity to try to re-pull the battery -- but even if I did. How would I help it

find its way back?

Gotta think that someone the door (ok the Immob computer) thinks it is in some mode and I can get it

to allow me to open it sometimes, but not always.

Anyone run into this before?

thanks,

Mike

[N41EF]

There are two different things going on. On the inside handle there are two small electrical connections, one powers the little light that helps you find the door handle in the dark, the other is a switch that tells the window to lower when you open the door. The fact that your window drops to open makes it seem like those parts are working. The window should drop as soon as the inside handle starts moving.

As you continue to pull the handle, it operates a cable that goes to the latch mechanism to let the door open. That cable might have been kinked, It is easy to pull the door panel off to make sure it's connected correctly.

Not sure how the window/door sync works, but try synching the windows by rolling them up, them holding the up switch for a few seconds. You'll hear a click after a few seconds, like a relay.

Also, do you lock the doors when you are in the car? Bad neighborhoods? If you do, you have to either unlock the doors with the dash switch, or have to pull the handle inside twice, one pull unlocks, one opens the door.

[pk2]

Txhoxie4life makes some keen observations and diagnostics. I have a similar problem, The outside handle stopped working after a week of torrential (for us anyway) rains. Drained my battery several times.

Made me think "immobilizer" to since my battery went dead several times and electronics went bonkers. I twiddled with most possible secret combinations I could think of... nada.

It might be a bad connection in the door (or nearby related circuitry). In his, case, its probably because someone jerked a wire lose during whatever sort of repair he was doing. This might explain his windows intermittent nature. Sometimes a loose wire connection accidentally knocks it's mate and makes contact making the circut work temporarily. ( mine is due to water related corrosion I'm sure)

Regards, PK

Edited May 14, 2010 by pk2

[N41EF]

Good point, check under the seats to see if a rain leak has gotten in and soaked the immobiliser. A wet one can cause all kind of bad problems. Check for wet carpet, and pull the passenger to check it out.

[txhokie4life]

I've been there on another Boxster -- this one is tight as a whistle. Not likely water intrusion.

I'll be looking at it tomorrow.

mike

[pk2]

Ya I’ve been through the sunken imobilizer drill 3 or 4 times. Got it covered (literally) now. I think mikes problem is a disturbed connection in the circuit (read unplugged, broken or cut wire maybe). To me It would to be a question of what’s the bigger hassel, taking it back to the shop or hunting down the problem with a DMM (volt meter) myself.

Regards, Pk

[txhokie4life]

Ya I've been through the sunken imobilizer drill 3 or 4 times. Got it covered (literally) now. I think mikes problem is a disturbed connection in the circuit (read unplugged, broken or cut wire maybe). To me It would to be a question of what's the bigger hassel, taking it back to the shop or hunting down the problem with a DMM (volt meter) myself.

Regards, Pk

I'm not convinced the shop did it -- none of the body work had anything to do with getting in/out of the car.

Now when I thought they had physcially broken the handle, maybe by yanking on it, I called them up and they

said they will fix it. But I'm not going to make someone fix something they aren't responsible for.

I did notice they must have pulled the battery as the clock was messed up and they had pulled off the positive terminal protector.

I'm going to try a reset routine that was posted at PPBB tomorrow when I go out to the shop to finish up a few things.

Hopefully it works and I don't have to open up the door. I hate messing with body trim that I care about. Too easy to mess it up.

thanks for the help/suggestions

Mike

[txhokie4life]

Ya I've been through the sunken imobilizer drill 3 or 4 times. Got it covered (literally) now. I think mikes problem is a disturbed connection in the circuit (read unplugged, broken or cut wire maybe). To me It would to be a question of what's the bigger hassel, taking it back to the shop or hunting down the problem with a DMM (volt meter) myself.

Regards, Pk

I'm not convinced the shop did it -- none of the body work had anything to do with getting in/out of the car.

Now when I thought they had physcially broken the handle, maybe by yanking on it, I called them up and they

said they will fix it. But I'm not going to make someone fix something they aren't responsible for.

I did notice they must have pulled the battery as the clock was messed up and they had pulled off the positive terminal protector.

I'm going to try a reset routine that was posted at PPBB tomorrow when I go out to the shop to finish up a few things.

Hopefully it works and I don't have to open up the door. I hate messing with body trim that I care about. Too easy to mess it up.

thanks for the help/suggestions

Mike

Low and behold it is a snapped cable -- right at the point it connects to the brass piece.

Looks like no way to fix it.

I think it did work the last few times by luck in a sense that there may have still been a strand

or two connected.

Fortunately I have another set from my track car -- but I have to pull it from it.

I tore the door apart today -- not too bad. but I got stuck trying to figure out how the

cable connected to the door release/lock mechanism.

A few questions:

How does the other end of the cable connect to the door release mechanism? It was not obvious how it connected

and whether it was one piece or two? didn't want to get too rough with it.

Can you remove the cable from the door release mechanism if they are indeed two pieces -- if so how?

Lastly, if I need to remove the door release mechanism -- I have to find a T40 12pt star driver -- but

I have not been able to locate one -- anyone have a source?

thanks,

Mike

[pk2]

Ya I've been through the sunken imobilizer drill 3 or 4 times. Got it covered (literally) now. I think mikes problem is a disturbed connection in the circuit (read unplugged, broken or cut wire maybe). To me It would to be a question of what's the bigger hassel, taking it back to the shop or hunting down the problem with a DMM (volt meter) myself.

Regards, Pk

I'm not convinced the shop did it -- none of the body work had anything to do with getting in/out of the car.

Now when I thought they had physcially broken the handle, maybe by yanking on it, I called them up and they

said they will fix it. But I'm not going to make someone fix something they aren't responsible for.

I did notice they must have pulled the battery as the clock was messed up and they had pulled off the positive terminal protector.

I'm going to try a reset routine that was posted at PPBB tomorrow when I go out to the shop to finish up a few things.

Hopefully it works and I don't have to open up the door. I hate messing with body trim that I care about. Too easy to mess it up.

thanks for the help/suggestions

Mike

Low and behold it is a snapped cable -- right at the point it connects to the brass piece.

Looks like no way to fix it.

I think it did work the last few times by luck in a sense that there may have still been a strand

or two connected.

Fortunately I have another set from my track car -- but I have to pull it from it.

I tore the door apart today -- not too bad. but I got stuck trying to figure out how the

cable connected to the door release/lock mechanism.

A few questions:

How does the other end of the cable connect to the door release mechanism? It was not obvious how it connected

and whether it was one piece or two? didn't want to get too rough with it.

Can you remove the cable from the door release mechanism if they are indeed two pieces -- if so how?

Lastly, if I need to remove the door release mechanism -- I have to find a T40 12pt star driver -- but

I have not been able to locate one -- anyone have a source?

thanks,

Mike

try Norther tool or ebay

PK

Edit: forget norther, try McMaster carr or just google

Edited May 16, 2010 by pk2

[Wayne R. Dempsey]

A few questions:

How does the other end of the cable connect to the door release mechanism? It was not obvious how it connected

and whether it was one piece or two? didn't want to get too rough with it.

Can you remove the cable from the door release mechanism if they are indeed two pieces -- if so how?

Lastly, if I need to remove the door release mechanism -- I have to find a T40 12pt star driver -- but

I have not been able to locate one -- anyone have a source?

thanks,

Mike

I've got a whole tech article here that I wrote that should answer all your questions that you have posed here. Check out the photos for details on how you attach the lock mechanism to the door cable. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock.htm

The tool you're looking for should be available at any Craftsman store, or a good parts retailer - they are fairly common.

-Wayne

[txhokie4life]

A few questions:

How does the other end of the cable connect to the door release mechanism? It was not obvious how it connected

and whether it was one piece or two? didn't want to get too rough with it.

Can you remove the cable from the door release mechanism if they are indeed two pieces -- if so how?

Lastly, if I need to remove the door release mechanism -- I have to find a T40 12pt star driver -- but

I have not been able to locate one -- anyone have a source?

thanks,

Mike

I've got a whole tech article here that I wrote that should answer all your questions that you have posed here. Check out the photos for details on how you attach the lock mechanism to the door cable. http://www.pelicanpa...le_and_Lock.htm

The tool you're looking for should be available at any Craftsman store, or a good parts retailer - they are fairly common.

-Wayne

I had grabbed these and printed them out -- or at least I thought I had -- I ended up with many copies of the main page --

No internet at the shop! You need to get that book printed!!!!

I went to Sears and Harbor Freight neither had the tool -- but I think Advanced Auto does, I'm headed there in a few minutes.

thx,

Mike

[txhokie4life]

A few questions:

How does the other end of the cable connect to the door release mechanism? It was not obvious how it connected

and whether it was one piece or two? didn't want to get too rough with it.

Can you remove the cable from the door release mechanism if they are indeed two pieces -- if so how?

Lastly, if I need to remove the door release mechanism -- I have to find a T40 12pt star driver -- but

I have not been able to locate one -- anyone have a source?

thanks,

Mike

Found the tool for $8 for a set of 4 sizes at Advanced Auto.

Stole the cable from my track car that doesn't need it at the moment.

Pretty easy once you find all the hidden screws/bolts.

The cable is indeed separate from the locking mechanism, but you need to remove the locking mechanism

to get the cable out -- it has a little t-hook that has to be rotated 90 degrees to remove.

thanks for the help,

Mike

I've got a whole tech article here that I wrote that should answer all your questions that you have posed here. Check out the photos for details on how you attach the lock mechanism to the door cable. http://www.pelicanpa...le_and_Lock.htm

The tool you're looking for should be available at any Craftsman store, or a good parts retailer - they are fairly common.

-Wayne

I had grabbed these and printed them out -- or at least I thought I had -- I ended up with many copies of the main page --

No internet at the shop! You need to get that book printed!!!!

I went to Sears and Harbor Freight neither had the tool -- but I think Advanced Auto does, I'm headed there in a few minutes.

thx,

Mike