How to remove stripped drain plug?

[Long Islander]

In preparation to do oil change on my 00 C2 using renntech DIY, started to order the SS plug from Sunset and they advised that Porsche doesn't recommend it because it's too strong for the oil pan metal and causes problems. The SS plug is an exhaust plug and only coincidentally is same size as oil pan plug. They would sell it to me but provided the above info and I didn't order it. FYI.

From personal experience, I have about 15k on a M96 powered Boxster and just under 5k on a M96 powered C2 running LN Engineering's magnetic drain plug without any apparent negative side effects. I'm not sure what problems the plug could cause, as the torque specs are reduced and a copper crush washer is still used. If any magnetic metal shavings were circulating around in my engine, I would prefer they stuck to the magnetic oil drain plug making their existence very easily noticeable at the next oil change rather than have them circulate throughout the motor.

I think the major concern with the stainless plug is the combination of its hardness and that it and the sump cover are dissimilar metals, which leads to other problems (both the OEM drain plug and LN's magnetic units are aluminum, like the sump cover).

I'm a bit confused. If the OEM and LN drain plugs are both aluminum, then why is the torque spec for OEM 37 and LN 19? Shouldn't they be the same?

[JFP in PA]

In preparation to do oil change on my 00 C2 using renntech DIY, started to order the SS plug from Sunset and they advised that Porsche doesn't recommend it because it's too strong for the oil pan metal and causes problems. The SS plug is an exhaust plug and only coincidentally is same size as oil pan plug. They would sell it to me but provided the above info and I didn't order it. FYI.

From personal experience, I have about 15k on a M96 powered Boxster and just under 5k on a M96 powered C2 running LN Engineering's magnetic drain plug without any apparent negative side effects. I'm not sure what problems the plug could cause, as the torque specs are reduced and a copper crush washer is still used. If any magnetic metal shavings were circulating around in my engine, I would prefer they stuck to the magnetic oil drain plug making their existence very easily noticeable at the next oil change rather than have them circulate throughout the motor.

I think the major concern with the stainless plug is the combination of its hardness and that it and the sump cover are dissimilar metals, which leads to other problems (both the OEM drain plug and LN's magnetic units are aluminum, like the sump cover).

I'm a bit confused. If the OEM and LN drain plugs are both aluminum, then why is the torque spec for OEM 37 and LN 19? Shouldn't they be the same?

No. The LN unit is hard anodized so that the hex does not distort or deform with use, but it is also harder than the sump cover, so you don't want to have it tearing up the cover. We have been torqueing them to 19 ft. lb. for years, never had a problem.

[Long Islander]

Nice explanation, JFP. Thanks.

[jhshelton]

I had  the same issue with the drain plug and also stripped O2 Sensor. I went to local hardware store, purchased a 5/8"-11/4" pipe wrench. It has 5 rows of sharks teeth and can muster all the torque you can put into it. Sprayed blastoff on the O2 sensor, let it soak over night and came off without incident. The drain plug just required the pipe wrench.

[Jan sherry]

Thank you for the tip to cut the tip off the #5 5 screw extractor and work it in slowly.  Worked like a charm, especially when coupled with my pipe wrench to break the over torque I put on the plu….  I had started drilling a hole in the plug to get the full tool in there but thought better of that plan when it seemed extractor was just drilling a bigger hole in plug and went with yours plan.