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Recommended Posts

Posted

I must have angered the Porsche gods this weekend. First my CDR23 radio in my 2003 Boxster S goes inop and now this. I've never had a problem rotating my ignition key, until I tried to turn it this evening and it is locked in the off position. Yeah, I know, rock the steering wheel to the right/left and I've tried that approach. Still locked in the off position. I've read the tutorials about changing out both just the key switch and also the more detailed DYI about changing out the entire module. My question is, will replacing the switch solve my problem, or does the total lack of key movement mean that the module is bad? Thx in advance for your input.

Lyn

  • Moderators
Posted

This is an easy question, separate the electrical part of the lock unit, try if the key now works properly, if yes, the electric part is bad, if not, the lock unit is the culprit.

Posted (edited)

9 out of 10 times it's just the electrical portion of the ignition mechanism that goes bad.

The plastic cracks and won't allow the mechanical section of the tumblers to move freely.

Here are DIY instructions.

http://www.pedrosgar...ion_Switch.html

Happy Boxstering,

Pedro

Edited by ppbon
  • Upvote 1
Posted

Many thanks to Pedro and RFM. It was in fact the switch and the Audi unit is an economical and relatively quick fix. I'm 65 and a little less agile than I used to be, so it took me a bit over an hour to curl up under the dash and R&R the switch. I pulled the left hand vent assembly too and it makes it much easier than trying to do all the work from the bottom. It's been said before and I'll repeat it again, "This is a great Forum and a reassuring place to go to when you have a technical issue that seems beyond your capabilities".

Regards,

Lyn

Posted

Many thanks to Pedro and RFM. It was in fact the switch and the Audi unit is an economical and relatively quick fix. I'm 65 and a little less agile than I used to be, so it took me a bit over an hour to curl up under the dash and R&R the switch. I pulled the left hand vent assembly too and it makes it much easier than trying to do all the work from the bottom. It's been said before and I'll repeat it again, "This is a great Forum and a reassuring place to go to when you have a technical issue that seems beyond your capabilities".

Regards,

Lyn

Hi Lyn - good to know I'm not the only 60 something curled up under the dashboard or engine doing the maintenance & repairs......

And everybody I know thinks I'm "strange" too !!

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Hi,

So I think my switch has joined the group of those who have failed.

I cannot remove the key. It won't rotate fully counter clockwise. When I start the car, the headlights will not go on. The high beams go on only if I hold the lever to the rear. The fog lights, tail lights and brake lights work.

Are these symptoms familiar? Will the DIY above guide me through the fix?

thanks,

David

Posted

Hi,

So I think my switch has joined the group of those who have failed.

I cannot remove the key. It won't rotate fully counter clockwise. When I start the car, the headlights will not go on. The high beams go on only if I hold the lever to the rear. The fog lights, tail lights and brake lights work.

Are these symptoms familiar? Will the DIY above guide me through the fix?

thanks,

David

David:

Your symptoms sound like a textbook case of the electrical portion of the switch gone bad.

If you are fairly nimble, it's an easy and very inexpensive DIY. All you need is a very small regular screwdriver.

Pedro's DIY instructions with the link in Pedro's post and those on Mike Focke's website are very good: http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/ignitionswitchreplacement

Regards, Maurice.

Posted

Thanks Maurice,

The instruction indicate that the key is to be removed.

My key will not come out - it won't rotate counterclockwise far enough.

Will that be a problem?

thank you,

David

Posted

Thanks Maurice,

The instruction indicate that the key is to be removed.

My key will not come out - it won't rotate counterclockwise far enough.

Will that be a problem?

thank you,

David

David:

I don't think that will be a problem. Just disconnect the negative cable of the battery first.

Then, when you have the electrical part of the switch out, you can do RFM's simple test to determine 100% if the electrical portion or the mechanical portion must be replaced.

My money is on the electrical portion.

Regards, Maurice.

Posted

Not sure if you are replacing the entire barrel unit. If so, I highly recommend also removing the gauge cluster and steering wheel plastic skirts. It really simplied the replacement for me.

Posted

Wow! I decided to get the newly designed unit instead of just the Audi plastic part. oops.gifMaybe this was a mistake. This is way more involved than replacing the Audi part.censored.gif Maybe another 9 or ten years of service out of the new plastic would have been worth the easier remove and replace procedure.

I have the cluster out, the cover over the steering column is out and the light switch housing/air vent is removed. I got the old barrel out.

helpsmilie.gif

How do I remove the tumbler assembly from the old unit and install it in the new unit?

How do I remove the plastic wire guides (2) from the old barrel to install them on the new barrel?

thanks,

david

  • Admin
Posted

Wow! I decided to get the newly designed unit instead of just the Audi plastic part. oops.gifMaybe this was a mistake. This is way more involved than replacing the Audi part.censored.gif Maybe another 9 or ten years of service out of the new plastic would have been worth the easier remove and replace procedure.

I have the cluster out, the cover over the steering column is out and the light switch housing/air vent is removed. I got the old barrel out.

helpsmilie.gif

How do I remove the tumbler assembly from the old unit and install it in the new unit?

How do I remove the plastic wire guides (2) from the old barrel to install them on the new barrel?

thanks,

david

  • Upvote 1
Posted

Thanks Loren. I had tried the paper-clip - using the smaller one - and didn't get it to work. Now I've gotten it.renntech1.gif

thank you.

david

Posted

Ok ... the key barrel is in, the gauges are connected. the wires are plugged in.

Something is VERY wrong. The car won't start. the oil pressure light and the batter light are on when I put the key in.censored.gif

Here's the whole story.

Last Sunday - Halloween - I went to a friend's to have dinner and pass out candy to the kids in his neighborhood. When I arrived, I couldn't get the key out. I knew at that time that the switch had failed. (I've been reading the boards and recognized the symptom.) Later that eve, I started the car, drove home and put her in the garage. The key still would not come out.

The next morning I packed up my truck and headed out of town for the week. The car was locked in the garage, the battery maintainer was plugged in and I figured it would wait until I got home to fix it. While I was away, I ordered the new switch assembly; it was waiting for me when I got home today.

when I got home this afternoon, I tried to start the car and the instruments were whacked - like the battery was low - and the car would not start. Something happened while I was away.??? I guess I should have disconnected the battery before I left.

I then resumed the replacement of the switch assembly. I disconnected the battery and went through the steps of the of the switch assembly replacement. I now have the instrument cluster reinstalled, the wires all connected, etc.

When I tried to stat the car, there were all kinds of whirring sounds. The spoiler went up. It sounded like the starter solenoid was clicking and maybe a fuel pump was working. There was no engine starting. The instrument lights are not working properly - no oil check when the key is turned.

So ... here I sit with a new ignition switch assembly and the car won't start.helpsmilie.gif

Any ideas????

I have disconnected the battery until I get some guidance.

david

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