Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have an 1989 turbo cab. The car will shut off for no apparent reason. I have replaced the CDI unit, coil, fuel pumps and the problem still exists. First indication that the car will stall out is the tack starts to jump, car shuts down, after 5 to 10 minutes I can restart and the car is okay for the rest of the day.

Posted

the tach jumping in older 911s is a sign of a charging system problem

it could be over charging to the point where it shuts it down

you need to rig a volt meter to see what is going on when the tach starts jumping

Posted (edited)

On my '78 the tach jumping, and then later the engine overspeed circuit latching up was the result of a failing alternator. Turn the key completely off long enough to remove the overspeed latchup and the car would restart and run for....unpredictable....

New alternator w/regulator built in and the rebuilt CDI ignition seems to have solved the problem.

The factory original CDI ignition and over-rev protection circuit both seem to be overly sensible to over-voltages. The tach signal comes from the CDI so when it starts misfiring(***) due to the over-voltage the tach jumps and eventually the rev limiter latches up.

With the battery all the way up in the front and the alternator/regulator clear in the back then both the battery feed + wiring and the ground return wiring front to back become EXTREMELY critical. Voltage spikes, UPWARD voltage spikes, due to intermittent internal short circuits within the alternator can destroy CDI system in very short order.

When I disassembled the factory original alternator I could not believe it had been operational, every winding showed signs of (frame) shorting and overheating.

*** With the supply voltage well above 12 volts the CDI's internal voltage DC-DC upconverter's output voltage goes well above the ~250 volt "standard" causing the 300 volt rated SCR to break down and "fire" spontaneously.

Edited by wwest

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.