997 Gt3 Sway Bars On 997 C2.

[racerken]

 

I am installing the GMG WC anti roll bars tomorrow. The GMG bars are developed from their racing program and its what the guys with GT3's and GT2's put on their cars when they get rid of their stock bars.

Just for curiosity sake, can you measure the diameter on each GMG WC bar?

Good luck with your weekend project.  

[machina]

Just measured them,

25.6 mm rear

29.9 mm front

They are hollow, beautifully made by Eibach to GMG specs. Kit comes with lube, bushings, spacers, clamps.

Dont forget that the actual bar size has less to do with stiffness than the alloy, wall thickness, design of the bar.

Check their website for more info.

dr

[racerken]

Dont forget that the actual bar size has less to do with stiffness than the alloy, wall thickness, design of the bar.

You forgot the color.   :)  I like the blue.

Yeah, we are in the middle of automotive, provide technology to a Formula 1 team so I can see and hear many hints on how to make things go but there is nothing like bolting-on and just trying it.  These race teams will actually simulate entire environments with material properties of each component from the road surface up through the entire vehicle.  One guy yesterday was telling me that platform rigidity is something that I should be looking into.  Yeah, as if I'm going to tear apart my car...

In my case it was interesting to see the difference between these solid bars from 997(19mm) to GT3(24mm) with a significant difference in performance.  Of course, in the winter, I might discover something else but that not for 6 months.

[machina]

When you drop it all, can you take one quick picture?

BTW, which tie rod/ball joint removal tool will you use?

Thank you very much for the DIY link. You just saved me 2 days.

Ken

Ken, only did the rear bar and a string alignment. Didnt have time to get to the front bar. Wont be able to get to it for a few days, will check in when its finished or when I'm finished.

[markj911]

If only the rear was done, then why do any kind of alignment? I thought the alignment was IF one changed the front because of the slack on the subframe mount.

[machina]

Just changed the springs in the car as well, so new ride height etc.

[racerken]

 Machina, what is 'string alignment'?

Ken

[PAULSPEED]

Look at page 16 of this manual.

http://www.smartracingproducts.com/pdfcat/srpcatalog2009.pdf

Paul

[racerken]

Today, I started my front sway bar swap and was unsuccessful because the GT3 sway bar will not align with the stock C2 drop links. I followed the details from 'atr911' in the Rennlist forum and it worked out well. I would only add the following:

remove the HID levelling assembly and all bolts and clips attached to the subframe. A very narrow 17mm wrench is required to remove the drop link nut. I purchased a harbor freight ball joint remover and had to remove some material to make it fit the tie-rod ends. You only have to remove about 2mm's and it works well. I also removed the lower front fender well to facilitate the bar removal. Nothing was tricky. I do confirm that you do not have to disconnect any coolant lines.

I'm now waiting for a response from Sunset; either a gt3 drop link is required or it uses the same droplink but has different suspension geometry.

BTW, the drop link (08 stock C2) is too long.

Anyone have any recommendations on decent priced drop links? I don't need anything fancy and I don't there there is a whole to drop links...

Thanks,

ken

Edited July 19, 2010 by racerken

[machina]

Interesting Ken,

I have the GMG bars and they told me to modify my front drop links by having them cut and welded.

This would be the least expesnsive option I guess but not sure how you would determine the correct length to fit each of the adjustment holes on the bar ends.

Sounds like we will need adjustable drop links. I like the RSS units but you cant go wrong with tarret either.

dr

[racerken]

 I'm designing a quick fix:

i'm going to cut out the mid section (about 3 inches), thread the ends, fasten coupling nuts, and use a threaded rod (several different lengths).  This entire project is about $75 in tools and parts.  

I've got a lease car so I'm not too keen on upgrading then returning everything to the dealer.

Regards,

Ken

[racerken]

I could not locate a metric grade 5 coupling nut in left hand thread and ran out of time this week so I just had 1" cut-off and had it welded back together.

$ 40 for cutting and welding.

Feedback:

The bar has 5 positions: 1 is furthest out and 5 is furthest in. There was tape intentionally covering the 2nd hole.

When the drop link is attached with no load on the wheels, you can only attach to hole 1 and 2 as the bar interferes with lower link. When the load is applied, there is about an inch of clearance. I'll take pictures later.

I would recommend cutting 1.5". I'm going to road test now.

Ken

Edited July 25, 2010 by racerken

[markj911]

Paulspeed,

Where did you get the drop links?

Cheers,

Mark

Here is a picture of the drop link I bought next

to the stock link.

Paul

[PAULSPEED]

I have the link at work. I will get

it in a few days.

Paul

Paulspeed,

Where did you get the drop links?

Cheers,

Mark

Here is a picture of the drop link I bought next

to the stock link.

Paul

[markj911]

I think I found them...

http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-products/996-rear-drop-link-set-996rdlnk-detail.htm

Any ideas on how to adjust out the swaybar preload they speak of? Seems it would be best to do it on a lift where the rear suspension is under load.

I have the link at work. I will get

it in a few days.

Paul

Paulspeed,

Where did you get the drop links?

Cheers,

Mark

Here is a picture of the drop link I bought next

to the stock link.

Paul

[PAULSPEED]

I bought them from a company that is no longer around. He bought

them here.

http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-products/list.htm

You are right.

I use two jacks. One jack to lift the car. The other jack to lift the suspension.

The $175.00 price is about the lowest you will find.

Paul

[markj911]

Thanks Paul...

I bought them from a company that is no longer around. He bought

them here.

http://www.tarett.co...oducts/list.htm

You are right.

I use two jacks. One jack to lift the car. The other jack to lift the suspension.

The $175.00 price is about the lowest you will find.

Paul

[machina]

Hey guys, just found this shot of the front sub-frame with the swaybar attached.

Gives you a good idea about what is going on under there.

dr

Edited August 20, 2010 by machina

[markj911]

Parts just came in today. The bar was out of stock in the US and came from Germany. Apparently, the part number has been superceded to 997.333.701.97. I also ordered adjustable drop links from Tarrett. The parts from Tarrett are amazing quality!

Can't wait to install and try out. Does anyone know how much bias is created with each of the three holes on the bar?

[PAULSPEED]

Stiff

Medium

And better than stock.

Paul

[racerken]

Stiff

Medium

And better than stock.

Paul

I have GT3 front and rears, set them on the lowest setting and find them too soft... (might be in my head...). I'm going to set them +1 this weekend.

Ken